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I've changed out at least 50 engines and tranny combos, using a carb plate from Summit.... Never a problem and I always use aluminum intakes. Just make sure ther'es no play in the bolts (I personally use studs in the intake and use nuts up top), but don't make them too tight...just good and...

Not enough cam and too much carb.... In general, just not enough engine. I seriously doubt you'll be in the 13's, unless you're spraying... Sorry.

10.5:1 should be fine on pump gas. Just back off your timing a bit for cold weather... I'm sure you get winter grade gas in Utah.... not great for high compression engines.

After you do the above and get it started, do yourself a big favor and ditch the points for a Pertronix igniter... You might also check to make sure you're getting 12 volts to the coil. It could easily be the ignition switch or even harness wires.

You'll be fine with the RPM and a 3" air cleaner. I have the Air-Gap RPM with 3" A/C and it just barely cleared, but it did clear. I think the Air-Gap is about an inch taller than the RPM.

Yea... 65-68 use the same front glass... Unless you have a concourse restoration, I'd go with a replacement glass, available from any autoglass business... I've never lost points at an MCA car show for mine...

I agree with the above comments.... get the front lowering springs and ditch the power steering, if you can drive without it. My '66 is pretty stable to 120, but is downright scary at 135.... which is where my '03 Mach just starts coming alive....

I don't think you'll suffer any degradation from using the Mach intake. I would also recommend using the PHP intake spacer, which raises the upper intake another 3/8" inch.

I'm sure you can do the same mod to the '03, if you want. I've had my Mach for over a year and have never had any issues with it... Why would you want to mod the pedal?

I absolutely agree with 302 coupe! There is nothing weak about an FMX and anyone who says different has never owned one and abused it. It is heavier than a C4, but you can race it all day, without worrying about the heat damaging it. Rebuild the FMX... you won't be dissatisified.

Why not just put a 3.55 trac-loc in the 8" you already have? You're not running enough power to break it, unless you get stupid,

Plug wires might be on wrong, or you may have a bad connection if you used the universal wire kit, and cut them yourself. Could also be a timing issue... set it a 32 degrees and adjust from there.

I don't usually get into these "Who's got the biggest penis" things, but in this case I could make an exception, since I come up to VA, from time to time. If you got the cash, I'll be your huckleberry! Cash required, since this is obviously not a friendly race. Besides Tim, down here at MPH...

Check out www.mach1registry.com and go to the Mods forum. A few guys there have done the cam swaps with pretty good results.

Check out the www.mach1registry.com and go to the forums for 1/4 mile race results... You might be surprised...

Dude, you're slow... You could have gotten all of these guys cars, while they were "debating" the best way to get the bezel out... :D

Just call MSD and they'll send you a new magnetic pickup for FREE. They won't ask how old it is and they don't seem to care. They are a great company! It connects to the distributor with a couple of screws...either hex or torx, I don't remember... but its easy to change, 20 minutes tops.

Just freshen up the 8" that you have now. You won't be breaking it with the power you have. I'd probably go with 3.55's, other than that everything is optional, even the decision whether or not you want a L/S differential.

I don't know why you guys are so wrapped in this language thing. In Latin Camaro means.... oh wait a minute. They're both dead, so it doesn't matter.

If you're going to put that engine it there, you can forget the 8" option. Of course you know you'll be installing a completely new suspension, front and rear.