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The stock MAF and injectors are just fine for a boltons car. You wouldnt see much if any increase by changing them on a mostly stock car. You wouldnt need to upgrade injectors unless your making upwards of 400hp.

One thing I do is...never fill up when the tanker is filling the underground tanks. When they fill the underground tank it stirs up whatever happens to be in it. If you fill up while the tanker is filling...the gas pump will suck up whatever they stirred up and go into your tank. Depending on...

i believe these are what your looking for...they are off a Torino GT www.eastwoodco.com , they have them here.

I believe they are tubular. I would guess and say a solid bar would be stronger than tubular one but another aspect to it is that your reducing unsprung weight when use use a tubular bar. The less unsprung weight you have the better.

I believe the only differences are the intake, cam profiles, and exhaust. As far as I know everything else is the same. Someone correct me if Im wrong. :shrug:

I also have a premium 01 auto GT. I would suggest programming. I have superchips programming and it made a significant improvement in performance or over stock programming with the mods that I have. Im going to the track this spring too. Will be first time with this car.

I don't have them yet but you should see a increase in braking performance because they won't expand under heaving braking like the factory lines will. So your putting more pressure to the calipers.

Im off HYWY 94 in St. Charles

Unless you have a blown cobra, shorty headers really arent worth the effort if you ask me, esp. if you have no more than boltons. You would only see a few hp at best from installing them. Long primary tubes are a must for making a real power increase. You would probably see roughly a 15hp...

Possibly a Roush tip would be close. Not sure of exact dimmensions. www.roushperf.com

Get some of the engine oil dye(forget the name of it) that you dump in the motor and then let run and go over it witha blacklight. It will glow under the light. Easiest way I know of to find the leak.

I also solved that problem with a gatorback belt. When my auto hit second gear(at full throttle) it would sqeak everytime. :nice:

If the pipe is flared correctly there isnt any obstruction of exhaust flow. In doing that..its a easier weld being a "fillet" weld and its a stronger weld.

If I remember correctly...my 01 GT with me in it and full tank of gas, jack and spare, it was 3450.

Depending on the mufflers..they probably put your pipes in a flaring machine or vice versa and expanded them to fit over one another. My stock pipes on my 01 are 2.5".

You can get the Syncromesh at autozone. But its still a petroleum based product. Synthetic is way to go.

Easiest way to check your wheel bearings is.. take the top of the tire and try to move it(with some effort) in and out. Pushing towards the car and pulling away from. If there is any play or movement the bearings are done.

What part of Stl are u in? Im right next to MO river on St Charles side.

I also vote for the Blizzacks if your getting dedicated snow tires.

My car did something similar other than starting a second time and being ok. It turned out to be the fuel pump control module. I would plug in a code scanner and see what codes if any the computer throws up.