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If memory is correct(I got them in 1992, so I'm not positive) the bell and flywheel are from a 78 King.

I have an OEM bellhousing(I think with fork in it) and OEM flywheel for a 302. I have to dig it out and look, but I think the flywheel is near perfect.

yuuuup, she is pretty rough shape these days, it's been sitting outside a lot, but it runs good lol

Hey, I never knew what was supposed to go in that spot, cool!

p.s. For the first time ever, I can now launch my Mustang in 1st gear with full throttle and it only spins the tires for about 20 feet, and then lifts the front left tire off the ground. A few weeks ago, I installed 255/40r17 Toyo Proxes R888 tires on the back. I've never had a tire grab so hard...

Damn that's a nice looking car

It would be awesome to swap in a complete SVO motor into a II.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQOl_WHukqk :D

Dude. That is an AWESOME II.

I have 275/40zr17s on the back and 245/45zr17s on the front. It'll take more tire up front(since I modified my upper control arms) in fact, I bolted the 275/40s on the front and they fit, but I never drove it to test for any issues, but the rear well is full right to the subframe. Bigger flares...

It looks like somebody melted a plastic car so both ends sagged. And what's with the vette rear and nose?? Painful.

You can use some hockey pucks instead of rubber, they last longer. heh

I'm going to buy a box of bends and 2 header flanges, and make my own headers. I don't think they make swap headers with large enough primary tubes to work well with a 427" 351 stroker anyway.

10.5 is too high for iron heads, unless you add a few gallons of race fuel every fill up. If they were aluminum heads you'd be approaching the limit of pump gas. I run 10.95 with aluminum heads and enough valve overlap to yield only 7" of vac idling at 1300 rpm, and 93 octane is barely enough...

They do look cool, but I'd tig up a set of my own covers before I'd pay $340 on ebay.

I'm going to cut an engine plate from a sheet of steel that bolts to the front of the motor, and then weld up a round poly-insulated mount on each side that will bolt into sockets on the frame rails.

The heads of the 2 bolts that hold each of the spring bumpers to the frame rails will hit the tires first. Once those are removed, the frame rail and spring are about even.

My plan is to machine the 5 lug rotors I have down so just the hubs remain, then use slip-on rotors from a modern setup, probably from a Jeep Cherokee or something similarly heavy, since they have the same 5 lug pattern. As for the brackets, I'm going to fabricate them from steel stock and use...

Turks?? What the hell?

That's an awesome car!