Search results

It was a device that plugged into the OBDII port, then had a laptop that plugged in to that which had an app that graphed the power of each cylinder. I don't think it's publicly available.

Yup, 2 bad coils. A friend of a friend is a ford tech. I slipped him $20 and we took a test drive in my car with his computer hooked up. He was able to show me which coils were failing. Replaced those two and runs like a champ!

I ended up finding a Ford tech who plugged his laptop into the OBDII port and drove my car around. I had one bad coil and one weak coil (1 & 4). I replaced both of them and booya! Car runs great. Just thought I'd add the update.

Thanks for the reply, think I'll go this route to try and figure out my issues.

Not a super old post, but bringin it back to get some info. Was the issue resolved? I'm having the same issue, so I may go pick up 1 or 2 coils and start swapping them down to find the problem.

So, to the OP, were you getting a Code, CEL/MIL? Mine's running like carp and it's frustrating. Well, i wouldn't say carp, but it idles funny, has a misfire below 1500 RPM, but runs fine WOT at any rpm. The only things left I can think of to replace/check/fix are the coils.

I've replaced my o2 sensors, plugs, boots, and MAF, but my issue hasn't gone away. Anyone else have any input?

I've replaced the MAF, and my Baro readings are the same as before. Now that it's hot, it misses even worse. I pulled the injectors and the tips are spotless, I was hoping they'd be gunked up and that'd be my problem, but no such luck. I'm beginning to wonder if the injectors are...

LOL! And then:

BARO is holding steady at 144Hz, showing 25.2 inches of Hg, but weather show 29.8. Guess my MAF is toast? It also showed bank 1 & 2 to be lean, probably due to the MAF. PS, According to the Snap-On computer, BARO readings are as follows: Sea Level = 159Hz 1000' = 156 2000' = 153...

Replaced the battery Sunday and have been driving it around every day since to let it learn it's surroundings. It searches pretty bad with the A/C on, but seems to idle better with the A/C off. It has had a few hiccoughs when leaving a stop light, but the missing seems to have improved...

My battery's starting to get weak. I tested it with my load tester and it's borderline. I've noticed that when starting, it sometimes resets the key cycle count, trip count (not trip odo), and think's it's the first time starting. Is it possible it's resetting the KAM? I hadn't thought of...

It's not throwing any codes at all, thus I don't know which cylinders are missing, I assume it's not the same one every time. I changed plugs & coil boots about 6 months ago as part of general maintenance. It got better, but never fully went away, and the random miss was happening before I...

I have a 99gt with about 156k miles on it. It's been having intermittent misses, which I assumed were related to a coil on it's way out the door. I did a track day and ended up blowing out the flange gasket on the exhaust and it got worse. I replaced it and it got better, but never went...

I have this same problem. I changed plugs, wires, but not the coils (yet, heh). I cleaned the MAF, too. I'll have to check the EGR to see if that's the problem. The car has almost 160k miles, so I thought maybe a clogged injector as well.

Compression check? What motor (i4, i6, v6, v8, etc)? I could see higher EGT burning a valve, but if a machine shop rebuilt the head, that would take care of that. Do a compression test (engine warmed up, no plugs in any cylinder, done at WOT), and post your findings.

I know this is old (found by searching), but I wanted to add something to it. There is absolutely NO way back pressure can affect pressure applied to the exhaust cam lobe. It is not physically possible. Why? Here's an explanation: Say you built up 150 PSI in the exhaust. Where is that...

When I bought my car it only had one remote as one of the original 2 was lost. Well, my only one took a crap, so I used a buddy's to test to make sure it wasn't my car acting up since the battery was good in the remote. Well, that worked fine, so I've been using it until the two I ordered...

If you want to pay for it, by all means, go ahead, I can't afford that. Otherwise, I'd like to find the problem, not just replace the entire system. I put the stock head unit back in with the same issues, so i went back to my head unit. I turned it up as loud as it would go, but they didn't...

I'll try it in the morning, but how loud are you talking about? I cranked it up over half way to where the tweeters were killing me, but they never came on.