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I'll be there on Saturday as well:D

The good folks at DPR www.dprsocal.com are going to be hosting a dyno weekend on January 21-22. There will be food, drinks, and horsepower:nice: come on out and have a good time. The event is open to all RWD cars and trucks. When: January 21st and 22nd from 9:00am to whenever :)...

Could be the clutch safety switch or the ignition itself :(

Anytime you buy a part from the dealer ask them this "Is that the best price you can give me?" I saved 7 bucks just asking. I always ask and they usually give me a little off. Give it a shot, the worst they could say is "Yes" :flag:

Sounds like the filler neck grommet ford part number F4ZZ-90-72-DA :nice:

A chip tune will cost around $500. A basic dyno run A/F check with minor adjustments like timing and FMU cal dic shouldn't cost more than $120. Just call around and talk to local tuners before you drive there to get quotes :nice:

Before you push your car hard you NEED to get it tuned or at least see what the air fuel ratio is at.

Another Option

I can hardly read your posts :rolleyes: The proper set up would route the oil filler vent to the S/C inlet or air filter

Maximum Motorsports full lenngth non powder coated. As far as the welding goes just tell them to blow with an air hose on each weld to rapidly cool it. If the shop you call has no clue what you're talking about just move along anyway.

Just pull on them and they will pop out then push the tabs in with a flat tip screwdriver and continue pulling :nice: Gauge Cage Install

A local shop quoted me $120 for the install. Then I called an exhaust shop and they quoted me $35 hmmmm

Just run the car with the heater on full blast (if you have a heater) and fill it slowly, you'll be fine doing it that way.

Call around to local muffler shops and see if they will weld them in for you. Usually performance shops over charge for this simple install and muffler shops can do the same job for much less. I'd be sure that the shop you take it to understands what they are installing though :nice:

For one, the breather is not the answer and I wouldn't even reccomend it myself. For two, removing that line is exactly what he needs to do. It is a clear step for any S/C install and leaving it hooked up will cause bigger problems. So yes it is a big deal and he could have a clogged PCV...

:stupid: Screw everything else until you have disconnected that line first. Make sure you buy a vacuum line cap for the Throttle Body and the hole on the side of the oil filler tube as well. I would bet that leaving that line connected was causing the PCV to blow out. "To much pressure...

There are mixed reviews on that actually. Even though a lot of people use them to reduce the pressure you really don't want to introduce the un-metered air that comes from those breathers. Did you change the PCV when you did the install? Did you disconnect the vacuum line that goes from the...

The base timing should be at 10* spout in. As far as the FMU you won't know unless you get it on a dyno. You won't even get the gains you are looking for until you get it tuned. I installed my kit and went straight to the tuner, we swapped the cal disc in the FMU, cleaned the MAF, and set...

Well you have a good attitude about it, I'll give you that. See if there are any local mustang clubs in your area and maybe some one can offer you some face to face advice. I wish you luck man :nice:

The original Tooling used by ford was sold and they can be found all over Ebay. Just make sure you get some that have ford imprinted on them. This Is A Good Set