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I just remembered: I have some window motors too that I'm willing to give away; the bushings might need to be replaced, though, I'm not sure. Reply if interested.

Hah, I knew y'all would grill me about the dodge. I'm not saying they're more reliable than fords, I'm just saying that particular dodge is more reliable than my particular 'stang. (granted, most things with four wheels are :rlaugh:)

I know this is an old thread, but I figured I'd bump it instead of creating a new one since this is sort of relevant to the OP: I just got rid of my 95 GT (pictured in av). Right before I sold it I had planned on replacing the idler pulley as well as the torx fastener that holds it into place...

I workout a ton, it keeps me sane. Jiujitsu is by far my favorite form of cardio. You get to meet up with friends every week and try to strangle each other for an hour and a half. :p Any of y'all ever trained any martial arts? Boxing, muay thai, wrestling, etc, are all great forms of cardio.

Welcome to the forums! If all the electrical connectors seem to be seated firmly in their respective plugs, and none of the connections/wires are visibly worn, I suppose it could be possible that you accidentally shorted something during removal/install which could have blown a fuse. :shrug...

Hmm, weird. How much does the voltage gauge drop? (Dead center should be 13 V)

By .07 and .12 do you mean Amps??? I ask because .07 amps (which equals 70 milliamps) is still considered high and .12 Amps (120 mA) is definitely high. Most sources seem to agree that parasitic current draw shouldn't exceed 35 mA. After I found my short circuit and disconnected the radio, my...

At least you have a garage...I get mean looks every time I start tearing my car apart in my apartment parking lot, lol. Good luck with the short-hunt, keep us posted.

lol, thanks for clearing that up. Glad I didn't spend an afternoon checking all the wrong stuff. For the record, I found my current draw! There was a short in my radio wiring harness. All I have to do now is charge the battery and I'm back in business. :-) BLKSN, any progress with yours? Did...

Out of curiosity, what fuse box diagram are you looking at? I'm currently running through the same gamut of tests that you are and have also narrowed my culprit fuse down to #8. The diagram I'm looking at, however, offers a different list of protected circuits for that fuse...

I found the culprit fuse--fuse #8. After I pulled it the current draw dropped to 10.3 mA. I looked up the electronics protected by that fuse and sure enough, the key warning chime is listed under fuse 8. I knew that damn chime was behind all of this! I tried to follow the wiring to from the...

Nevermind, I just found a great article on diagnosing F.R.E.D.s (frustrating ridiculous electronics devices). It seems pulling fuses is the best way to begin narrowing things down. Idk why I didn't think of that :rolleyes:. Parasitic Battery Drains | Scope It Out

Welp...I just checked for parasitic drain and the multi read 105 mA. Over 4x the average current reading according to the battery service link you posted. This is with the doors closed, the trunk closed, the lights off, etc. I guess its time to start testing appliances individually to see what's...

Great post. Thanks, Hissin! I've been crazy busy this week but once I get a chance i'll check for parasitic draw and let you guys know. I think the only test light I have around is for checking 120 V lines so I may just roll the dice with my multi and hope it doesn't explode, haha.

Hah, our cars are getting up there in age--the kids these days want wifi and bluetooth in their cars, they don't understand phrases like "engine displacement". I've got a good understanding of Ohms law but I don't really know where I should be testing. Do you know of any online resources...

Alright--problems encountered. I thought I had everything working, and as far as the new ignition cylinder, everything is working, however, the battery now refuses to stay charged. At off it's reading 11.68 V and at run it's reading 7.60 V. I'm wondering if I bumped or disconnected an important...

I didn't use any extra grease when I originally posted this write-up. It's been almost three years since and my motors are still going strong. Just saying.

Since I wrote the pictorial, I've repeated this experiment a couple times. One of the motors I've tore open had a couple hex nuts replacing two of the plugs. I don't recall the exact size, they were a little loose in there but they worked. I'd still recommend replacing them with the proper...

All done. Drilling that thing out was a pain. Although this thread has turned out to be me talking to myself, for the sake of conclusion, here's some pics, lol: If anyone wants to repeat this experiment, PM me or waken this thread and I'll drop some knowledge.

After further research, it looks like even if the pin has been drilled out, the cylinder still needs to be in the run position to be removed from the housing. It looks like i'll be drilling the cylinder out completely. I've never done this before, any tips are welcome. Wish me luck.