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Not only are the tie rod lengths an issue, but bump steer will be too as well as that 8mm a side wider track (finder interferance). If you must use the 96+ spindles, then buy a proper bump steer kit which will give you the right length outer tie rod as well as the ability to adjust out some of...

Assuming no body damage and a difference of say a half inch side to side, I clocked the springs one way or the other from "correct" to fine-tune the height. You have to do both ends as they play-off of one another - and it takes a little time. For example, on one side of the front the end of...

Not go-fast, but the brakes on these things are terrible. Upgrade to some better frictions front and rear, SS brakes lines and if you can do the rear disc swap. With that said, going with the sn95 5-lug conversion is getting pretty cheap so if you need to do rotors, pads bearings and such...

I think this site might be helpful: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/

I have an '01 Cobra vert with the H&R Super Sport springs w/ '00 Cobra R Bilsteins. IMHO, it sits too low in the front - I do hit high spots in the road with the K member - like peaks or high road repairs. Have to be very careful. Other than that, it looks killer - get lots of compliments...

Might want to replace the rear main seal while you're at it. I highly recommend getting a tranny jack to at least put it back in. I rented one of those as well as a clutch alignment tool from the same place. The alignment tool set the new clutch up so well I didn't have to mess with the fork...

Soap method worked for me - car had 112K on it at the time. Trick is to seal that part where the soap would push out. I used a metric socket with an extension. Hardly anything escaped and the bearing just pushed out with each additional piece of soap added.

I did springs on both my 86 Gt and my '01 Cobra. By far, the Cobra was more complicated due to the IRS. But even then, pretty easy. Read installs published in this and other forums - lots of good info which helps build confidence. Mark where the old spring pig tails sat in the cups before...

Yeah, use a tranny jack - worth every penny. Do the '83s have the 10-1/2" flywheel and clutch? The reason I ask is the input splines may be different on the 90 tranny. Might want to check that before getting that thing up in there.

Bar of Soap - cut it into small pieces and pound it in using a small socket. Seems to be a little more dense than grease and a lot less messy. Worked great on mine - popped the bearing out in like five minutes. If you go to the slide hammer/puller, make certain the ears get into the little...

'86 GT 'Vert - upgraded to '87 - '93 11" rotors; 73mm calipers; SVO M/C; braided lines; manual proportioning valve. Installed the Stainless Steel Brakes Rear Disk Kit - 10" vented rotors. All four lug. I think it stops a lot better once the bias was set right (that took a while though).

Go here for the manual: http://www.convertible-parts.com/Parts_Mustang.html $19.95

I use a large (1-1/4") socket or a piece of wood. I'm a little reluctant to hit the bearing directly.

I'm using the Steeda "double hook" quadrant and F/W adjuster with an OEM cable. Works great. But all of these pieces are a PITA to install. My stocker was stripped so it wouldn't adjust at all. Because I also put in a King Cobra kit, thought upgrading the quadrant was a necessity. Now...

'86 GT (old school upgrade) stock = F - 10" rotors; R - 9" drums now = F- 87-93 spindles, 11" rotors, SVO 73mm calipers, SVO large bore M/C, braided lines, stainless steel caliper sleeves and manual proportioning valve. R- Stainless Steel Brakes Rear Disk kit (same as T-Bird Turbo Coupe or 93...

I have the H&R SS springs and Bilsteins on the '01 Cobra vert. Dropped it a lot - maybe 2" in the front; 1-3/4" in back. Nice front-down rake and ride is firm. But, the K-member is too close to the ground - hits high spots in the road. I'm think of getting some spacers.

have the H&R SS springs and Bilsteins on the '01 Cobra vert. Dropped it a lot - maybe 2" in the front; 1-3/4" in back. Nice front-down rake and ride is firm. But, the K-member is too close to the ground - hits high spots in the road. I'm thinking of getting some spacers.

I'm with Sarf on this one. Lots of time after graduation to do the fast car thing. Your first priority is getting through school with the best grades you can (not that easy for some of us who had to work too). I’d advise going to grad school too - only a few more years but the pay-off in...

I have an '01 - do 98 miles round trip to the office each day. I have the basic bolt-ons. That "line" is a tough one. Does "bolt-on" include a blower? In my experience, going beyond basic bolt-ons puts you into "tinker" territory in order to keep it running right and drivable. I don't have...

If you had some aftermarket cams in that thing, I'd go with the 3000. But I think as it sits a 2400 will be enough. Might want to consider an after market cooler too. As I recall, the install is about the same as a clutch - maybe a little easier - haven't run an auto in a long time.