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There's an indirect connection on how the EGR affects the check engine light. The check engine light will come on if the computer cannot resolve the parameters in a given situation when it seems the reading from the O2 sensors are off. Hence, if you have a clogged thermactor system or check...

Sorry, didn't read your sig. :damnit: You'll have to place a 10 kOhm resistor on the feed back wire to simulate the load. Here's the tech article for a guy with a 92. http://www.ffcobra.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=33;t=018802 Hope this helps... :spot:

The two are known as TAB/TAD solenoid (Thermactor Air Bypass/Thermactor Air Diverter). They sit on the passenger side wheel well with vacuum lines going to the bypass/divert valves on your smog system. 44 (r): Thermactor air injection system inoperative, bank #1. Suspect AIR pump, diverter...

did you get to pull any of the codes? I've had the same problem twice before: when I sense it starting to stall, I'd floor it, it will backfire, hesitate and stall. Then it would take some time (15-20 min) before it would start up again. :bang: I had changed the TFI, FP, TPS, EVP, plugs...

It will bring you close. The best way to know for sure is to check the resistance (or gauge/meter reading) with about 3 gal of gas and then again at a full tank. In one post, I incorrectly mentioned the Y/B wire as the fuel level input. It is actually the Y/W wire that reads the fuel level...

If you go with an aftermarket gauge, yes. The AS module interfere's with the signal coming from the float and your gauge will not read correctly. The AS module prevents the erratic measurement/display when the vehicle accelerates or is in a turn by averaging the signal to the fuel gauge.

Recheck all your vacuum lines, esp the fuel regulator. Was there anything else you were working on or near?

The Y/B is connected to the window actuator for the passenger side. I have two actuators that contol both windows: One actuator to roll down both windows and the other to roll up both. When I arm the alarm, my windows will roll up if they were left down. When I disarm, they will roll down...

I had the same problem twice and it turned out to be the fuel pump. Even though you can replace it with one from your local parts store or from aftermarket sources, some pumps are built differently from others. The theory behind the shut off while warm scenario may relate to the swelling of the...

You're in luck. :D I happened to be working on the alarm today and had some picks of the 2 relay setup. Access the kick panel and find the harness with mostly pink wires. The Pink/Blue wire locks the doors and the Pink/Yellow unlocks it. There's a Black/White wire you can use for sourcing 12V...

Here's the thread to start you off from JRICHKER... http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=535217

Once you have all the checklists done up, have them as a sticky on page one. :hail2: Make it a one stop shop before a "this-has-been-answered-already" question gets posted. :spot:

:lol: We've must have been typing at the same time. :rlaugh:

Don't want to overstate the obvious, but you only had two views since you posted (w/in 10 mins). :nonono: Search the threads for the "No start checklist", you'll find enough info to get you going. What year do you have? :shrug: The FP relay is under the drivers seat for pre-92 model years...

I'd go with what Monte87 suggested, an aftermarket gauge. When you say "off", do you mean it reads 1/2 tank when it's really full (vice-versa) or is it erratic (bouncing up and down)? :shrug: If it's erratic, you may have to replace the AS module if your sending unit checks out ok. You...

Track down your connections and ensure you have power and ground going to the right places. Follow the schematic to troubleshoot: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92%20PowerWindowWiring.gif Good luck. :nice:

He's a good site for you...mine hasn't worked in a few years. My lead foot happens to be my cruise control though. :banana: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=cruise-control.htm&url=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/ccexpl.html From within StangNet: For 87...

That's why I went with the Nordskog Digital dash for my 89. I had issues with the RPM needle getting mechanically stuck on 1100 RPM when it was actually at idle (800 RPM). :bang: If you run into to problems with the Autometer, you may have to remove the AS module. Good luck.

Use the SEARCH feature I know most people want a direct answer for a specific problem they are having. You should try the SEARCH feature before posting a question. You'll get a lot of info that may or may not relate directly to your stuation. Embedded in some of the threads, you'll find...

If you haven't found it already: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=530421