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Sheep! You go on doing what you do and I will stop posting on this pathetic site. 1/4 mile morons.

first off you dont have lifters. You have lash adjusters. If it is your lash adjusters you can replace them quite easily. You dont have to pull the engine.

Just so I am not one of the other posters here that just states facts with no backing. You can view the info here for your selves. ? for modular powered Mustang owners - Corner-Carvers Forums The poster is Swhiteh3. I think you will see that his experence with cars is a little above most...

I will reply to mister kilgors statement. I am sorry but you are the wrong one. My info comes straight from one of the ford engineers that did the 4.6 inital testing. He said he would never recomend running the 5w20. He would never run it in his car. He has torn down literly hundreds of 4.6...

Never run 5-20 in any mod motor! They only put it in the cars to make milage requirements. It will damage your engine.

I always get a kick out of the 1/4 mile guys. You hit 120/130 and freak. I enter turn one at Cal speedway at 155 and sustain 145 through turn one and two. Turn 8 at Willow springs is a sustained 140. A pebble at 130 does not put you in the ditch. In stock form the SN95 does generate quite a bit...

I am happy it worked for you. Its always nice when things go easy.

There are several types of penetrating oil. Spray it good and let it sit over night then get a good long bar and lean into it. Try to keep the bar perpendicular to the plug. Like I said. If the threads come out with the plug then you can helicoil it.

Does it not turn at all or does it turn and not come out? If its just spinning then your threads are gone anyway. If it wont turn then you have no choice but get it out. Are you turning it the right way? Are you spraying it with any WD40 or some kind of oil that will get in and help it? If you...

The damage caused by pre det isnt easly noticable. The damage is done to the life of the bearings. Every time you get a pre det you are hammering the bottom end. It may show up right away if its serious enough or maybe later with a early failure. Pre det is bad...Mmmmmmk

Just drive it steady. Not too much speed. Not too little if there are hills. Allow a lot of extra room for stops. Dont do anything fast. Dont turn fast. Dont brake fast. Drive like there are eggs under your pedals. I was headed to Willow springs race track winter before last. Going over hwy...

Mail order sucks. Put it on a dyno. You have already done damage to your engine. The dyno is cheap compaired to a new engine.

HP tuner all the way. Gives you far more access than any hand held unit.

OEM

Best pad is a rather loose question. Best for what? For me the best pad doesnt stop at all until its VERY hot. They make lots of noise and eat my rotors. Thats best for me. What kind of driving do you want to do and what do you expect your brakes to do?

Center wear = too much pressure.

Stock GT internals? Might as well buy a new forged long block now.

Tight tolerences? Not true at all. I dont know where people get the idea that these motors have any different clearences than any other motors. The entire issue is the thickness of the top land on the pistons. They are the weak link in the motor. I run WOT for 30 mins straight. I run 4k to 7k...

I hate when people post things with nothing to back it up so here is a good source for why we dont use 5-20 in mod motors. Read all of Scotts posts. As you will see, he is qualified to make this judgement. ? for modular powered Mustang owners - Corner-Carvers Forums

Nothing lower than 5-30. 5-30 to 10-40 depending on temp and type of driving.