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so i should be able to get power at the connector right near the back of the fuel pump assuming my wiring is good right?? i'm getting power at teh relay, at teh inertia switch and not at the fuel pump, and when i run a hot wire directly from the battery to the pink black fuel pump wire i get...

and is open this weekend?? must be near san francisco, sorry guys, new to the area and dont know any good shops yet

i just dont hear the pump going on, if the fuel filter was clogged, i would still hear the pump go on it just wouldn't make pressure in the fuel rail right?

thanks jricher, i know its all there, some of it just isn't totally intuitive if you have less experience, like i didn't know where that little plug was on the car, ect... you have personally helped me out a ton here though, and without this site i doubt my car would still be running:SNSign...

perfect man, thank you thats exactly what i was looking for, and i believe that should bypass pretty much everything and be able to show me if my fuel pump is bad or not

:D thanks everyone so i have spark, it must be a fuel issue.... so i pushed in the inertia switch and not fixed, i guess to check that thing i just put the key in RUN position and should get 12 volts when testing across the two wires that go in the bottom? i want to try that fuel pump...

ok guys, you are all getting some good karma/good samaritan points for helping me out right now:nice: pulled the starter and it was bad, so now it turns over but there is no fuel getting to the motor, i know this right after i turn it over i get no fuel coming out of that schrader valve on...

thanks man! your the man! so i think i might have two issues broken at once, since i was bumpstarting it to work for a few days and now even when i try to bumpstart it i get nothing and doesnt' seem like any fuel is getting to the motor.... the fuel pump is not clicking on and buzzing to...

ok guys..... two questions: when i push in the needle on that valve that looks like a bicycle tire valve that is on the fuel rail it should squirt fuel out right? nothing does now... and when i turn the key and when i jump the terminals on the starter solenoid the motor turns over, but...

so..... my car has both of those, i see a plunger type switch above the dashboard and a clutch interlock switch with a rod in it like the diagram above and i'm wondering if i can just bypass both of these switches? i've been trying to bypass them but am having trouble, maybe im' doing...

thanks guys! didn't see that diagram in my other post from before, wish me luck with my head stuffed under the dashboard after work today! :SNSign: :SNSign:

PS: i think its one of the switches cause i already replaced: battery, cables, starter, starter solenoid and if i jiggle the switch that has that plunger situation on it i can get it to turnover, wish i could just bypass those stupid switches but for some reason when i do that it doesn't work...

damn guys, when one thing goes wrong everything else seems to kind of go with it huh.... and then i come out from work and now i cant even bumpstart my car to get to work anymore... i think one of the switches connected to the clutch pedal underneath the dash is broken and i cant start my...

thanks bro, i'll check over by the gas pedal tonight and get back thanks again!

i'm pretty sure that the little switch that only allows my stang to start when the clutch pedal is pushed in has gone bad and i cant seem to find the little bugger!!? could someone be kind enough to let me know where on the car that is? i thought it was on the clutch pedal.... PS: i have a...

if your having the car custom dyno tuned does it really matter what electronics you have in the MAF ?? i would be tempted to just buy the bullit MAF above, put my stock electronics in and have it tuned for my set up.....

sorry, my bad, i was thinking of some imports with different suspension design.... so can coilovers fit on stock front suspension or will i need a tubular cross member? any particular brands that are a good deal? i have always had good times with UPR products....

that lower the car by simply raising the mounting point? (if that makes sense) i've bought these for import cars, they lower the car without reducing suspension travel by raising the top of the shock tower also wouldn't really stifff roll bars with relatively soft springs be a pretty good...

could always build a conservative motor with strong internals and just spray 100shot on it, monster when you want, docile all the rest of the time....

i've always wondered kind of the same thing about the gears ie: what is the best gear for a 350HP or so car on pure street tires? i've been in some NA cars that made the first two gears totally useless with 3.73's, i can only imagine with a blower and a t5....