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unless you can save a LOT of money by welding in a LOT of new sheetmetal yourself, I would just call it...a lost cause:flag:

5x4.5 is 5x114.3 so no those wheels wont work. they are 5x4.75

the plug on the speed sensor is for cruise (your year) and for the engine computer (on the newer models that the T56 was originally in). you should be able to find a longer cable from a company that sells T56 conversion kits.

my tank did that. i found that someone had crushed the vent hose when they put the tank back one time. this apparently caused the baffle inside the tank to come lose from its spot welds over time. it then rattled. so i did a whole tank with pump, sender, etc.

+1 for air. bench bleed the MC. buy & use speed bleeder screws. even if you dont leave them in the calipers.

if you need to, there is a bearing you can replace. it is behind the steering wheel and airbag clockspring (if equipped). it cost me about $12.

sometimes the coil or tach will make that noise, because you have a CD ignition box. not sure why.

i paid $880 for bolted on but never run (basically new) gt40 aluminum heads, WITH 24k mile cobra 1.7 rockers (the orig ford ones). :lol:

yeah that sucks man i have crane/ford 1.7 cobras on my gt40 frpp heads...heads were new and rockers were used but came with the heads from ebay :) btw i use a proform billet aluminum tfi distributor and it was about half the cost of msd...dont roast me but it seems to be holding up alright...

remove the key. knock off the chrome cap with a hammer/chisel. screw a slide hammer with dent puller attachment into the key slot. pop that b**** out. the cylinder is made of softer metal than the column.

shouldnt be 0psi at idle...:shrug:

yes, the inside spring compressor is the safest way. there is one 10mm? bolt that you remove and then the rag joint comes off the steering rack. dont worry about the steering wheel being crooked, because the steering rack (at least on my 90) has a D-shaped shaft. theres only one way it can go...

yes 92-up is the same (smaller one)

maybe the water damaged the maf element? :shrug:

ok good. yeah its from the same plug (ignition switch) but different wires.

there should be 4 actually...or maybe not, depending on your diff. but it may be worthwhile to replace the whole carrier unit. if the gear pieces went through the ring and pinion, you will need those too.

yeah theres prolly a bad ground somewheres on that cluster...dont know if it can be fixed.

you cant use the starter from the 87. you need the newer style. i dont see why youd need a different bellhousing to fit the starter. you may need a different bellhousing to fit the car, or to make the tranny fit the engine though.

well it seems the issue here is the gaskets. make sure where it says "front" on the gaskets is to the front, and dont worry about which side is up unless they say that. heads and gaskets (OHV heads anyway) are designed to be interchangeable from side to side. therefore, they will have twice...

No, thats not true. the white with pink wire (W/P) is the one that goes to the starter solenoid. it normally goes to the ignition too, but remember, the factory tfi ignition module has separate Start and Run terminals. remember, the ignition switch has 5 different switches in one. theres 4...