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My understanding of the link was that they were refering to the bearing retainer/flange that's between the bearing and wheel hub, the one that bolts to the axle. That flange is different on a II than any 5 lug 8". You're right though, if it's the one that's pressed behind the bearing, it's a one...

I don't know, I've never tried to buy just the axle shafts, I was just going by the cost breakdown in the link. Around here though, at the local pick-a-part, you can buy a complete axle assembly, from drum to drum, for $100. I agree 100%, and will pursue that route when I do this conversion...

I've seen 2 or 3 different ways to do the conversion and all appear to work. The thing I liked about this particular swap is that you could still use II brake parts, so you don't have to keep a record of what came from where when it's time for a brake job and the swap was easily reversible...

Maybe, maybe not. I would measure to be sure. If the axle binds the spider pinion, it will trash the diff. in short order.

You might look at this: http://www.mustangii.net/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3879

Did you check your fuses?

The pic addicted2II posted is the fresh air intake for the heater box (and pass. vent on non a/c cars). There's also one on the drivers side thats rectangular. It will be for the vent on non a/c cars and blocked off on factory air cars. These are probably the trouble spots. You might take the...

Sounds like a rusty cowl. Run water in the vents in front of the windshield and see if water is coming in the car from the upper corners of the dash or the heater box. If this is indeed the problem, to repair ir correctly will require alot of time if you do it yourself or money if you pay someone.

I'd bet it's in the bottom of the pan or still stuck in the pump or dist. You might get a telescoping magnet (looks like an antenna mast with a magnet) and fish around the pan, if it's not removed from the car. It may also stuck in between the pickup screen and the metal cover on the pickup.

Don't know if ths is the problem with yours or not but I had 2 of these cars drive me nuts with a pan gasket that wouldn't seal. Ended up going to NAPA and getting a rubber pan gasket instead of the cork type and that sealed them up. Also since you say it's up by the front wheel you might check...

Back in the early 80's a guy I worked with built a Pontiac 455 and focused on fuel mileage (in a 455???) Anyway, he took alot of material off the heads and put in flat tops to bump up the compression. He bought a Crane Economizer cam (remember those) and put it in 4 degrees advanced. He brought...

Not off the top of my head but I'm sure the complete set was less than $200 in stainless. Not alot to spend on brakes, IMO. Plus I don't trust myself with the flaring tool that much. :-) The classic tube site has an online catalog that has a price list. I remember in the complete sets you could...

http://www.classictube.com These folks do a nice job making replacement lines. I've ordered 2 complete brake line sets from them for the II's and they fit well but you can order just the front or rear. I also went with stainless, no problem with rust but more $$$$. There's a company called...

Man, I'm glad I'm not the only one like this. And my wife doesn't get it either.

To decrease deck height you will have to shave the block, not the heads. Also, there's a difference between static compression and dynamic compression. Dynamic compression takes the cam profile into account, which is probably the reason for your good compression numbers. BTW, nice car.

I wonder if these would be any good since the car has been parked for years. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Mustang-1977-Mustang-II-was-rolled-over-in-1985_W0QQitemZ4595588998QQcategoryZ6236QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

:hail2: :nice:

I'm no expert on the fox cars but don't they also have R&P steering? Are you just trying to ditch the struts? All the front end parts are the same on the II's with the exception of the springs and sway bar.

Oops, and I had to really think hard to come up with 2 things. How about the heater core replacement on A/C equipped cars? Granted you'll probably only do it once but it's without a doubt the worst repair on a II and it seems that every one I've owned had to have it done.

No