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Actually the valve that screws into the rail is 1/16npt. The fuel guage adapter can be either 1/8npt or 1/4npt depending on brand.

tubing: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D3224&N=700+400442+300140+115&autoview=sku isolator: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D5282&N=700+4294925228+115&autoview=sku

Those are the gm style actuators and they are pretty dang good. The factory gm actuators are best, the aftermarkets ones are so so. I actually use those actuators to pull the door release latch when I shave door handles off of vehicles.

If you want to mount an oil pressure gauge, use the copper tubing instead of the cheap plastic tubing that comes with the gauge. The parts house normally have the copper tubing in stock. Fuel pressure, you need to either get an electric gauge or use an isolator and then run the line to the...

I like leaving the rubber stops in place and mounting the pins just to the inside of them. Most, if not all, foxes have a couple of holes already drilled in the core support that can be used.

My Trickflow intake used a 3/8npt adapter. I ended up just going to autozone and buying a cheap temp gauge just to get the adapter I needed. My stewart warner gauge didnt come with it.

Auto tranny like soft sidewalls, manual trannys like stiff sidewalls

Dont forget that most of the mustangs out there have a 20+ year old fan clutch. Replacing the fan clutch was the single biggest improvement made to my cooling system. My list includes a high volume water pump, 2 core aluminum radiator, making certain the shroud and air dam were in good shape...

I have a couple buddys who race chevy 388s. They run long tubes with an 18" piece of striaght pipe. Not sure what length you would need for your engine though.

One thing I noticed from the original post, is that he had the pointed end down instead of up. That very well could have been the 1/8 difference. The reason you have to stab and restab your distributor is because when you remove it, the oil pump shaft turn as the distributor shaft rotates...

Here is link on how to DIY. simple resistors from radio shack. it says 94-95, but the 93 down are the same. http://www.mustang-tech.org/wiki/Image:EGRDelete.jpg#file

If I remember correctly, you must have the safety switches on the transmission in order to pull the codes. If any are bypassed or disconnected, or otherwise not working properly, you cant pull the codes.

Just like Bullit said. Remove the other nuts and raise the upper intake while pulling the rear stud/nut. I would try a little bit of BLUE locktite to hold the studs in.

You should be able to helicoil it on the car. Worst case, get a 90* adapter for your drill at harbor freight and cut the drill bit to where it is just long enough to do the job.

Aluminum heads will be better actually. Thicker decks and and better heat disipation. I didnt know that there was a dry shot kit made for carbs? Wet would be better in the long run any way. Maint thing is to make sure you have plenty of fuel for the hp you want to run. I used to always go up one...

Well, I know my response is late, but no chopping here either. Same shaft has been in 2 different engines and 3 different distributors. All were 5.0 FI engines and dizzyz. So I dunno?

You will be better served with a set of aluminum heads. Better heat disipation(can run more timing with less detonation), larger valves(more cfm), and a thicker deck(less chance of lifting the head). I am not saying a set of factory iron heads wont work, they just wont work as well. Also, make...

I would set the cross member in place before tacking. You can slide it as needed, mark it, then remove and tack.

basic tuneup? plugs, cap, rotor, wires? O2 sensors? You really need to set the timing.If it sounds like a lumpy cam, you are pretty car off.The car is old, check all the vac hoses also. Even though it doesnt have a check engine light, it can still have codes to let you know whats going on. The...

aircraft stripper. you will come out cheaper in the long run.