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Manual :nice:

I'm not considering mounting driving lights, but I like the solution you came up with. Looks right:nice: Dave

There's not a lot that would notice eh. I made a piece from a bit of aluminum scrap I had laying around. Cost nothing and nobody has ever noticed if it's right or not. Dave

You'll have some wobble before the "peeing" starts. It's a warning sign that you might want to pay attention to;) Dave

Hydraulic. Bled it once (took 10 minutes max, I don't understand the problems people are having) and it's worked flawless for 2 years. Easy on the leg in stop and go traffic, no header worries and no drilling holes through the firewall. Also, no unsightly cable snaking around the engine bay...

Do you have the T-5 tranny mount? How about a pilot bearing? Dave

If you can do some of your own fabrication the parts needed to basically duplicate the JMC kit is much less $. Not a slam against JMC. I just found I could do it myself and save some bucks. Besides, as a Canadian what else am I gonna do on those long cold winter nights. Dave

You're going to have to deviate from a "vintage" look one way or the other by having the seat back connected to the roll bar or the head rest connected to the roll bar.

I know you said you didn't want to do any cutting but I bought an original Ford 24" rad and re-cored it to a 4 core. It can be mounted in the stock location without cutting the rad support by fabbing up some brackets. My engine isn't overly built up but I daily drive the car in city...

There's one pic above, and another here Also a few more on the cardomain site. I made the base myself and it was a bit of a pain in the butt to get the right height, layback etc. Kirkey sells a very basic universal seat mount but I wanted something more heavy duty. And something that would...

I use the "pro street drag" seat. It is the same seat as the vintage race bucket but with the head support. I then had a custom seat cover made in vinyl with the vertical stripes to keep it looking "vintage". I agree about using a head rest, especially on a daily driver like my car is:) Dave

Kirkey makes a vintage class racing seat. Check it out. Very well made seats. It's what I'm running in my car http://www.kirkeyracing.com/41500seat.html Dave

Thanks, the bracket is cut from 3/8 aluminum. The master comes with the bracket going up and down (sorry about the size of the pic:D ) I lathed off the old bracket, made a new one and then brazed it onto the master cylinder sideways so it would fit into the stock location. I also...

The only bolt in kits I've seen are the JMC ones. But a bit pricey. They use a CNC master that they've modified to fit the Mustang. I basicaly bought the CNC pieces and modified the master myself. Saved some money and it was a fun project You want the Master cylinder to be on a bit of an...

The single, large stripe running across the front of the Cobra was used for the same reasons as the two smaller stripes you're thinking of.:) Dave

Wait, found one:D Dave

I've seen them as well on Mustangs. Unfortunately I don't have a pic either. My understanding is that these stripes were used to quickly distinguish the difference between vehicles on the same team with the same paint jobs. Dave

I'm running similar sort of numbers as you (perhaps 5 psi lower) and have been for years. Nothing wrong with those numbers:nice: Dave

I pressed a sleeve over the original shaft. Not so much out of a concern of re-enforcing the shaft but it was much easier to ensure that a smooth surface was pivoting on the bronze. I think the original shaft is strong enough but I didn't want to lathe grooves in the shaft for the c clips and...

You could always make a replica Trans-Am racer and leave the interior stripped and painted black:D Dave