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After 10 thousand years finally rust free framerails... now to struggle to put the car back together and realize i have forgotten how everything goes together since I tore it apart years ago...

The EGR appears to be working fine, but I am getting issues that are consistent with a vacuum leak (car thinks its running lean, keeps adding fuel). I tested as many vacuum lines as I could and the only one that appears to not hold vacuum is the EVR (the solenoid that controls the vacuum to the...

I tried searching on this specific point, but couldn't find a good answer. I assume that the EVR Solenoid (which controls vacuum to the EGR) should hold vacuum when applied, is this correct? Just got a brand new OEM one to replace an original which was not holding vacuum, and the new solenoid...

That is definitely my plan, I want to take care of these issues before they become real problems.. Just looking for any/all recommendations currently :D

I have been recently looking to get a set of subframe connectors installed, but am having trouble finding a good place to have it done. I live in Central/Northern NJ, but would also like to have some additional work done when installing the connectors, if possible. The car has been in Jersey...

Thanks. As a reference since it might help others, after tracing the wires and checking my O2 harness, i realized that the loopback that was in that harness was for the NSS/Clutch switch to the computer. I cleaned up the O2 harness connections and it fixed my code 67. I have a 91 with a...

Car has a hanging idle sometimes when driving. I was checking the codes with the car in neutral and also tried pressing down the clutch. I get that code when trying to pull the KOER codes.

I have been trying to fix a code 67 issue on my car for a while, and need some help/direction. I measured the voltage on pin 30 at the computer, and see 5 volts there. I then tested the voltage at the NGS sensor on the transmission (manual), and dont see the corresponding 5 volts. I ohm...

Finally managed to get mine painted after 4+ years..

Hoping for new paint in the coming months, so this may be changing.

I have a set of steeda cc plates that look identical to them, just a little more beat up. If they are steeda's, i would suggest not using them, as i managed to bend the main plate with a mostly stock suspension, only lowered with C springs. I have MM cc plates now, and they are waaaaaay...

Heres a picture of my cluster. I added the small LED next to the water temp gauge for a check engine light, and wired up the slosh module for the fuel level gauge, so that it doesnt bounce around.

I was wondering if any1 on here had any good experience/recomendations for auto body shops in Central/Northern NJ. I am hoping to get my car painted relatively soon, and would also like to get other parts sanded/primed. There is some rust starting on the bottom, nothing too serious I think...

On my car, the closed one to the engine, goes to the Bypass valve. This one has the little notch on the bottom, where the wiring plug connects. The one closest to the fender goes to the Diverter valve, and has the notch to the right.

Wheels are sold.

Nah for the stock style cables, one of the SN95 style cables rubs on my aluminum drive shaft on hard dips, so I'm looking to switch back to the old style.

Does anyone know what the E-Brake cable guides are called/where they can be purchased? Im talking about the little football shaped plastic guides that are under the car near the driveshaft. I cant find them anywhere!

Up for sale is 4 Ford Racing 17x9 Chrome Cobra R Wheels. These wheels have Pirelli P-zero Nero M&S tires on all 4, in 275/40/17. Two of the tires are almost fully worn out, and two of the tires are fairly new. These wheels were driven in several NJ winters, so the chrome is peeling on the...

Actually the strikers are there on my car, the passenger one is a little dirty, but there are no cuts/dents in it, so i feel no need to replace.

I got the ones made by Roush, but they are ment as replacements for the SN95 units, so a little custom fabricating is necessary. I ran about 1 1/2 bolts up through the back of the seat frame, and cut small holes under the headrest so that they just barely poked through, and put some nuts on...