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you need to de-rice that thing asap lol

my wife drives a 99 'lude. its fun, but gas mileage is lame for a 4 banger and the poor thing spins so many r's at 80 i feel bad driving it for more than 1hr without stopping to let it relax a bit.

oh trust me big brake kit will come soon enough, but the 06's got the better brakes--non brembo, all the brembos are the same. nate---the rev-up is the 300hp 7k rpm motor, its still the 3.5 just a little zippier. they started with anniv 05's and came standard on 06 with the 6 spd.

lol, i bought a 350 a month ago. i just ordered some new wheels today, along with an intake manifold, headers, crank pulley. if i can sell my tweecer i'm gonna get some springs, shocks/struts, sways. what year did you get? i got the 06 with the rev-up.

it's generally a good idea to wrap up the dizzy to prevent water from getting inside--zip lock baggies work great.

i personally don't think the cobra's are a different size. to the op yes you do need a 255/t rex and a tune if you want your engine to live more than 2 days again. tune tune tune--don't drive it till you do or you will blow your **** up again. it is expensive but it is cheaper than having...

did you have a t-rex on top of the stock pump? if not then you need a 255 intank(already ordered), t-rex, a dyno tune by a competent tuner, and maybe some 42's. looks like a pretty text book example of not the right combo. good luck.

they do that so that they can have a properly geared trans. always think of transmissions as the split from first to direct drive(4th in this case), in the case of the f-bomb t56 you go from 2.66 down to 1:1 this is known as close ratio. in the case of the t5 you go from 3.35 to 1:1 this is...

i live for your dyno graphs--they make me happy in the pants.

don't forget the hood(prolly), headers, intake, fuel rail mod(no biggie), dizzy(previously mentioned). its prolly not a roller cam, so if you want to swap cams later just keep that in mind $$$$. i think the bell is a direct bolt-up. i'd do it, its a better block and has more cubes--win win.

not to mention that the faster you go the more the tires grow in size.

its either escort or passport that sells a radar detector that shows your speed via gps on the unit---it is awsome, i highly suggest one if for nothing else than to have your speed in digital form at eye level.

then you sir have 1 freak of a speedo. i have personally seen speedos on $100k+ cars be off as much as 10% at 80mph--it gets worse the higher it goes. bmw even states that a 15% difference is normal and there is nothing to fix that.

as far as i am concerned noone has done that speed unless it was gps verified--speedos are way to inaccurate.

:stupid: if you decide to man up on the cam/converter then do a vic jr.

:nice: no documentation=no forged bottom end as far as i am concerned.

fwiw i never resurface any flywheels on clutch jobs--at work or at home. if its bad then replace it, if not let it ride.

you should by no means ever replace a seized caliper without replacing that hose at the same time.

the stock cobra flywheel is no where near 13lbs. when i removed mine i could not feel a difference between the stocker and a generic ford replacement. i do not believe the cobra lightweight flywheel bs. as for the op--no you do not need an alum flywheel. just get a $90 stock replacement...

not so much mine with a full tank of gas and me 200lbs in it weighed 3600--thats 3400 without me that is 100 less than him. btw i have the touring which is loaded out. a base weighs a good 75-100lbs less.