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I'm firmly in the "nothing bigger than 17s" camp. 18s are pushing it on a classic. I went with 17x8 up front and 17x9.5 in the rear. I rolled the lips but it didn't take anything else to make them fit. 17s look good without looking out of place. IMHO, past 17s they start standing out in a way...

I also went with Procar Rally seats. I had them do a slightly custom stitching pattern. They weren't cheap, but they are *nice*. I am 6' tall and did not have to cut the floor pans, but if I was much taller, cutting would have been necessary.

I also ended up with FPA headers on my 427W in my '68. Very painfully priced, but I couldn't find any other options. For what it's worth, they were a pleasure to deal with and delivered it more quickly than promised to help me hit a deadline.

Funny, this reminds me of a brand new steering wheel I bought from Mustang Depot that was scratched to hell. They told me it was normal and fought the return for a couple of months. Disappointing.

I can't help on the paint code, but model years and build years don't meet up. New models start being built before the new year - usually August/September IIRC. I seem to recall reading the 65 model year was 16 months long somewhere. :)

I'm looking at putting a Ford Racing 351W stroker in my '68. The first problem I see is finding headers that will fit the Z heads. Is anyone running a similar setup? What headers did you use? thanks!

Thanks, I guess that's worth a shot!

That's why I ultimately decided to stick with 3 points ... sounds like the best compromise by far between implanting your skull into the wheel and needing to build out a roll cage and harness bar to prevent your back from being crushed with anything else ...

My dad had 1968 GT-350 Convertible in the mid-70s. He sold it. I've never forgiven him, as I have fond memories of co-piloting that thing as a wee lad. Recently I asked him if he had the VIN, because I'd be curious to see if I could track it down. Lo and behold, he produced the original build...

My '68 is currently finishing up body and paint at OFI Classic Cars - Atlanta Mustang restorations, Thunderbird restorations, parts. They've done a couple other stangnet members' cars and quite a few award winners - browse the gallery to see some of their work. Full disclosure: my dad used to...

I'm getting close to needing to pick a paint color. I've got it down to Black or Acapulco Blue. Black is what I always wanted, but the car I bought at 15 was Acapulco blue and has been ever since. Tough call! Anyone have some nice hi-res pics of either in Shelby form? I have one set in...

They're poorly designed pieces of junk... sorry. Mine managed to linger on for a while, but once it fell off, it's not going to stay back on. I'm going to have to glue it.

Too funny -- I asked Harold this morning for some pics of those wheels on your car. I've been following the build of your '67 from 2,000 miles away for many months as I think my build is going to be very similar to yours. Harold is my brother in law -- unfortunately I don't think he can...

I'm pondering these wheels, but I've never seen them in 17" actually on a car. Anyone got any pics? thanks!

Anyone tried the Unique Performance cross member that promises "no cutting" even on the 65-66 ?

What shifter is that ?

I ended up around $1,100 for everything, shipped, but they gave me a discount because the order got messed up -- the manufacturer shipped them in leather instead of vinyl. Yes, I ordered them with the custom stitching -- simply asked them for the UP stitching with no headrest stitching, as...

http://www.my68gt.com/gallery/seats I ended up custom ordering to get the Unique Performance stitch pattern without the Shelby signature on them. I figure he's not building my car, and with all his lawsuit crap lately, I don't want his name on it. :) It took me forever and a day to get...

I have the same problem with my '68, but generally do fine by tilting the nozzle about 90 degrees and throttling the lever at about 75%.

You're SOL, unless you want to glue it on. These things suck.