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CHAIN GANG TILL DEATH

be smart and check the trans AND rear end fluid before you send it in

Insted of tapping a new thread I was thinking on just replacing the stock sensor and running 2 wires from the one that autometer gave me with the water temp gauge. I want the dash one 'alive', I don't care about it as long as it isn't a dead needle gauge. Would there be a problem running 2 wires...

:owned:

If I were you I wouldn't say anything. You bought a mustang cause it 'looked' fast.

Yeah..................................... What a thread. You know the only (if any) hp is going to be at one point in the powerband. S/C's are belt driven for a reason.

you can find one for $10 out of a junkyard 87+ mustang.

Wow your tq is lacking off badly.

Better than your post whoring :D

96-98 Cobra are solid. GT's are hollow which tend to break right at the welds. Most replacement bars are exact copys of 'Cobra' bars.

Blow dryer/heat gun and any remover to aid the process. WD-40 will work fine.

Of course, but it still isn't the same left to right movement from the UCA's placing the axle in the side to side motion where it is affecting cornering ability.

+1 for mid length headers

If you go for a 5.0 Stroker you' have to have the block machined. SHM has been known to shaft people lately. Choose someone else.

Wrong. Wheel hop is not side movement, it is a pivting up/ down motion.

Dude, There is NO side to side friction in a Quad Shock. If you notice they are bolted to the chassis with metal-TO-metal contact. Take it from someone who knows, me.

The quads have nothing to do with side to side movement. They are served for wheelhop and related up/down actions. Get some better (for handling) UCA's, it will reduce your side to side movement.

It isn't. enjoy having a bar that is actually solid (cobra)

Yeah, the IAC sensor is a bitch to unscrew.

Not a good idea saying "Search" anymore. The new upgrade has deleted ALOT of threads. Yes you will need a Cobra harness, the GT harness doesn't have the same wiring the Cobra does.