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Do a search first off........this question is a constant thing First off, what sound do you want? A H-pipe will give you the classic musle car rumble A X pipe will give you a ranchy Race car sound Duro

there are benifits to using 96+ spindals The increased track will give you better cornering...........if your a serious road racer I am still debating using 96+, or 94-95 spindals. I will be getting into road racing, and would like the 8mm of increased track in the frontend. Duro

Long tubes will be quiter at idle, and cruising throttle However if you lay into the throttle, they will be alot louder. The longtubes really open up the sound at wot Duro

I hear ya bud, I am rebuilding my motor from the gorund up, plus doing the carb swap. I have faith in you, remember double check twice. It's easier to check it twice, then it is to tear it apart again Duro

I picked mine up for $100 canadian, shipped to my door......... Haven't installed it, being the car is stripped though Duro

302's are bullet proof If you keep up on the regualar maintence, and change your oil every 5000kms, religiously.......it will never die I have taken apart motors with 400,000kms, and with regular maintence you can still see the honing marks on the cylinder walls Just treat it well, and...

Looks like a back yard mechanic job there My 5 yo cousin could do a better job porting Duro

ok first off..................finding a somewhat rust free shell in Canada is pretty hard......... Second off, it's a T-top.........which I like. You don't see to many of them around And it would cost me $2000 to bring a normal hatch shell up from the states So I think I scored...

it's solid.............no rust good shock towers, has floors........etcc Mine had no floors, and cancer everywhere Duro

Well guys it's been a good day I finally located a 90% perfect mustang shell It's a 87 Mustang GT T-top mustang It already has a 6 point Chromoly Roll Cage, subframe connectors, rear exterior battery tray, and hangers for a fuel cell The car originally came from BC, thats why it's in...

Does this kit move the wheels closer to the front to lengthen the wheel base? Where do you find a tubular kit, that keeps the wheels in there stock position? I want one for AutoX................ But looks beautiful none the less Duro

either do it right, or don't waste your money............I have always said that I will be converting mine come next fall, after my body is completey restored back to brand new. And will be replacing all guaging with Autometer Electric guages Duro

our shop charges $80 Can. for a four wheel alignment this includes setting the Toe, any camber or caster adjustments are extra Duro

My cousin used c02, to spray on to his Intercooler to cool it His civic was running consistant 13's on street tires, and stock interior this was with his 1.6L, and a jackson S/C trim Duro

I agree go carbed, and go with a mechanicial fuel pump, so much cheaper, and easier to fix than electric pumps Personally, I prefer carbs. There easier to work on, and diagnos true you will lose some MPG, but you'll get it back when you have to fix it Nothing beats the sound of a lumpy...

check to make sure your oil isn't gas saturated, from all this starting Try disconnecting the battery, this will reset the computer, maybe there was a glitch You remembered to disconnect the battery, before you started on the starter right? Duro

i'll have to agree, the 4 eyes have that more powerful aggresive look, where as the aero nose, looks alittle more refined But i'd take a 4 eyed, over an aero anyday besides there headlights don't yellow out, there always clear as day Gotta love the old halogen bulbs Duro

Just put some high quality Dex III/Mercron stuff you'll be fine Duro

I wouldn't put anything except DexIII Duro

157 teeth........5 speed 164 teeth.......Auto Duro