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I'd go .018 for the top and .022 for the 2nd.

No, shimming valves won't change pushrod length.

Did you seal the flywheel bolts? ARP thread sealer works well. If not they can leak because those holes go right into the crankcase. Also make sure it's not the rear of the pan leaking instead of the rear main. Did you oil the crank and rubber lip on the seal? Just throwing some ideas out there...

Try the 1262-S gaskets. Same gaskets with a steel core. That's all I run now.

Stuff works great. Don't get any on you though. Especially your face. The only way to get it off once dry is to remove the skin.

I think you'd definately be happy with the N-91.

I've also had good success with Anderson Cams. N-91 would probably be perfect for you.

I always shim mine out so I can get the fork as much travel as possible. Better for powershifting.

I never had the issues with chattering or failures either. Every SPEC clutch I've ever had worked excellent and held up great. No chatter, great holding power. I did change my clutch disc to a Pro-motion hybrid disc to help my trans live longer but I'm using the same SPEC III pressure plate.

SPEC clutches are tough to beat. High rpm disengagement is excellent. They have great holding power and a light pedal effort. Definately recommend.

That was actually a 1.450 in the launch vid. I never got to finish the pass though so I never put it in my sig. Trans locked in 2nd gear. Haven't made it back to the track since.

I've never used rim screws although I probably should though like Tanus is saying. The tires will spin on the rim. I've marked mine before to check and they do turn on the rims. Not alot but an inch or two in a weekend which will throw them out of balance. I run mine at 10 psi hot.

Definately #2 with adjustable shocks would be the best.

The baseline uppers really did make a big difference in the traction department. As far as launching straight though and high speed stability, the anti-roll bar really helped the most in that department. Big difference compared to the old Eibach drag springs with airbag.

Does this car see alot of street time? If not, consider an anti-roll bar for the rear. Like this one: 1979-2004 Ford Mustang Pro Series Chrome Moly Anti Roll Bar Kit - UPR Products Makes a huge difference when the car is planting the tires evenly. I never had much luck with the air bag setups...

For stud mounts, I've had good luck with Scorpions but Crane Golds are top of the line. Rocker stud girdles are always a good idea too.

I get a slight amount of that in my breathers in fall and spring when it's colder out. Nothing to worry about unless it's excessive. Bad head gaskets can cause it also.

I just got a set of those also. They're impressive.

Only if your going to go the extra and get a controller. It's a pain on the street without a controller because you need to kinda tick tock it on and off manually. If I just left it on, the car would never get up above 160 degrees. It works too well. I had a thermostatic switch on mine but it...

That's a hell of a deal. Looks to be in great shape.