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if it is the original clutch , could be the pilot bearing along with the clutch, otherwise as they comment the poly mounts

Normal USB-RS232 or USB-Serial will do the trick for you , here is an example : TRENDnet TU-S9 USB to Serial Converter : Serial Converters | RadioShack.com

Yes with or without tuner you need to have your basic mecanic stuff things like FP to stock values 39psi fpr disconnected from vacuum, 10 degrees of advance without SPOut plug , TPS in the .65-1.0 , and the idle screw , I dont quite remember if it was 1.5 or 2.5 turns open from closed position...

Not my business but as long as yo have the timing light and the TDC of #1 matches the Cable/Cap on #1 you cant have a "tooth off" , such case applies if you put the dist on the same spot without verify with a light, you can put the dist. even 180 degrees off , as long as you match the firing...

Based on the mods you are listing here is a list of things that come to my mind on your troubles, You installed some parts that will require to run at its best a tuning device, Tweeecer/QH, for example: EGR: Even when you leave the valve plugged the logic on the computer is still on, this will...

Looks like a pulley aligment problem , its easy to verify just by looking from the Driver side if you have some error on the aligment of the pulleys

Seems like electrical problem i would start with your battery/connections and check you engine ground.

Bank 1 is the passenger side where your 1-4 pistons are, That O2 is shot, i would like to recomend to you that change both sensors for the peace of mind and to have healthy sensors on both banks. Code 556 means a bad fuel pump, how ever if you have an alarm that cuts the fuel pump it will...

Thats weird ive never seen that, do you have an adjustable regulator? otherwise i would not be worried this fuel lines are like that the hose is like that. and the vibration i think its about your Damper however is that and Std , or a AODE?

On the 95 H/C/I I had the MAC O/R X + MAC catback and daamm it was loud, the sound on a H/C/I is as good as it gets passing 3000+ RPMS @ WOT but be aware of the horrible 2500 rpms Drone on WOT and a little load on the engine They sound awesome, but on street I would say they get really loud...

Thats right this is a fail safe addon , for whatever reason te computer or any system involved fails, the computer enters limp mode this will get you to the next service shop.

I used this idea to tune the Battery Offsets: First before you start to mess with the slopes and MAF use both slopes equally , this will allow you to tune directly to the injectors without any other factor moving the data. Do a couple of runs using different accessories ( AC , Windshield...

Probably but i dont see any diff between the operation on both TPS however to dismiss the doubt i will look on my stock TPS on my manual car. somebody could chime in here with their original TPS on a auto?, i will post the number latter

It seems its only a new type of part , usually they will discontinue old products when the manufacturer does not support them anymore and it seems it could be this issue according to RockAuto.com DY987 is discontinued so maybe they are the same but different manufacturers.

Good : It was by far most easy than rather another kind of work in the car ( F.E. :Clutch change no need to be cursing under the car and at the same time moving like a snake), also helps a lot to have a engine wash before you start tearing apart the engine The Bad : You will have to do a lot...

You can also checkout this one : http://www.mustang-tech.org/wiki/Image:EECPINS.JPG http://www.mustang-tech.org/wiki/Image:EECPINS2.JPG

Hi there :SNSign: Well I am in a not so good mood, we had here a 1/4 mile event which i asisted and it was basically a Camaro/Transam vs. Mustang event. Well there where all kind of cars in the camaro side they where "stock" ones and all bolted on Ls1/Lt1 even one LS1 with a single...

Absolutely suscribing since i want to do this to my car, traveling on highway with stock gets boring after driving a HID car.

And to add more info on gradys post, not only back the TQ , also for the peace of mind use anti-seize on all the threads, that way you will grant a long life on your threads on a dissasembly

I have that one from Midway Auto Supply http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx Its a nice code reader and very easy to use, no need to be guessing or writing bars on a paper. Whats the difference between California cars and normal production...