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all that work and didn't upgrade the cam?!?? why!??!? anyway, on the throttle body there is a plug near the IAC valve. under it is a adjustment screw. it is a base adjustment for air to bypass the throttle plate. Try adjusting it, you might be able to get some improvement. Also the IAC...

so no one has rebuilt a t5? All you people with around 300hp, are the stock t5's holding up? should I be good with a stock rebuild on it??

Is is just a low RPM miss, or is it across the range? What cam is in there? How did you install it? (advanced/straight-up...) Fuel regulator/pressure? Did you do a code check? could be a bad sensor.

The factory automatic is quickly destroying itself, so it is time to get my T5 ready for the swap... I scored a T5 from a 95 mustang. My engine is putting out close to 300hp(flywheel), but I want the transmission to handle 300, cause that is where the engine will be soon. I am going to...

There is no knock sensor on a 94 5.0. Tune up is fine, all new parts. Posibally defective new wire set, I have seen that before, so that's on the list to change. No codes, cylinder balance test comes back 100%. As stated, springs match the cam, yes they are new aftermarket with correct...

new stock length pushrods, rockers are comp cams adjustable, adjusted correctly. I forget the exact spec. Fuel delivery issues would have to change symptoms between load/no load. Yes it could effect a no load situation, but it would have to effect a load situation at a different rpm. It is...

no load = very little fuel requirment. If fuel where the issue it would do it at alot lower rpm under load. it does it same rpm load or not. tach vs speedo calculates out right on.

Thanks for the replies. Fuel pressure is good at idle, haven't checked it revving. If it only did this while moving, I would agree fuel issues were a possibility. But since it does this in neutral with no load, I'm counting out fuel issues.

So I got my stang back on the road, everything runs mint except.... When it hits about 5k the engine bogs down to about 4600 rpm and then climbs back to 5 k and does the same thing all over again. It does this in neutral or moving under load. I have replaced the tfi module, the distributer...

I know most people just delete the smog pump and run offrod pipes but... I'm building my stang for a performance daily driver (or actually a winter/rain driver since my motorcycle is my daily driver, but i digress...), and i like the ozone layer, so I'm keeping the aftermarket cats, and smog...

I scored a t-5/driveshaft from a 95 mustang, but no belhousing. Since the input shaft is longer I know i need a 94-95 bellhousing. But... I have a older belhousing kickin around. I looked around for a spacer plate to make it fit, but can't find anything. I own a cnc mill so I can make a...

Picked up a 94 Mustang GT. I pulled the stock engine cause of a busted ringland on a piston. I'm rebuilding it now. I'm shooting for 300 *engine* hp. ( i know everybody loves rwhp, but we are talk engines here, not drivetrains). I had the block bored .030, and am using sealed power hyper...

94 and 95 Mustangs have a slightly longer bellhousing/input shaft then the fox bodies. the pics of the two different year starters (on advanceautoparts.com) do show the difference. It looks like the older years have the external solenoid(fender mount), where the 94 has the solenoid on the...

Looks like my five point O needs to come out. Is it easier to pull just the engine, or the engine and tranny at once?

I'm having a couple issues with my car, and I'm starting to suspect the brain as a possible problem. I remember seeing something about dealers being able to test the computer. Can they? and how good is their testing if they do? I'd hate to spend $110 on a new one to see if it fixes things...

thanks for all the responses Bill, good info there. But it has an actual gauge not just the light. I don't think the stock gauge is good for much tho. The thing is that if the sender is bad, it is intermittent. If I was gonna test it I'd just pull it out, bring it to work, and check the...

the sender wire is hooked up good. I'm gonna pick up a new sender tonite when I go into the part time job. If that doesn't do it I'm gonna try the thicker oil. I just need this to last till the beginning of summer. thats the complete O'haul time. I don't have time to be toying with this now

the car pinged like crazy when I got it. I backed down the timing and it went away. I did the water pump and with everything out of the way I was able to see/clean the timing marks on the pulley. I checked what the timing was actually set to. It was at zero degrees with the Spout...

After the car has warmed up and after some higher rpm driving - when I come to a complete stop the oil pressure will go from the middle of the gauge down all the way. ANY increase in RPM and it goes right back up. Even just shifting from drive to neutrel will make it go back up. If i drive...

throw a cam in there. bolt ons are good, but bolt ins are better. K&n dyno'd on a stock 95 gt for 3hp.... yay....