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This was an old thread of mine but I thought I'd come back so anyone looking at it would know what the final resolution was..... Well I'm glad to announce that after almost an entire year of jackin' around with this thing I finally found the problem. LESSON OF THE DAY: Don't assume...

Here was the solution to my problem. Had a thread running over at All Ford Mustang forums for a year on this. Finally solved it today.. Well I'm glad to announce that after almost an entire year of jackin' around with this thing I finally found the problem. LESSON OF THE DAY: Don't...

I've had a thread going with what sounds to be the same problem for about a year now: Looking for some diagnostic help on my ’95 GT 93,000 mile 5.0 motor with a stock intake system (except for K&N filter) and a Mac shorty / Flowmaster cat-back exhaust. In other words, a basically a stock...

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Thanks, Just wanted to double check.

When you say TFI, do you mean the TFI (thick film ignition) module that was used on the distributor? Is what you're calling the TFI essentially the same as the ICM (ignition control module) that I replaced that's under the air cleaner? I believe the TFI was used on the 84-94 Mustangs but Ford...

Follow-up on the MAF: Does anyone have any more of a detailed spec for the what ranges in terms of volts or ohms for the MAF should be for a 94-95 MAF P/N F2VF-12B579-A2A (also known as F2VF-12B579-AA). From all the sources I've found, the F2VF-12B579-AA is the P/N listed for most all 92-95...

Cleaned my MAF twice, nothing. Bought a used one, still the same problem. The original MAF in the car tested at 3.7K ohms and the used one I got was 4.2K ohms. In other words , neither tested as open or a broken circuit. Backprobing the connector, the original in the car was .69 volts at idle...

Picked up a computer and swapped it out, no help. Guess I'll look for a used MAF (new remans appear to run $90.00 to $120.00) and try switching that next.

Thought I’d dig this thread back out and re-run it. I’ve seen this problem listed before here and in other threads, maybe worded a little differently, but essentially the same problem. Have never seen any solutions listed though…. The only thing I can think of at this point is that I need a...

Thought I’d dig this thread back out and re-run it. I’ve seen this problem listed before here and in other threads, maybe worded a little differently, but essentially the same problem. Have never seen any solutions listed though…. The only thing I can think of at this point is that I need a...

94-95 stock specs call for .052. Clutch is new. Maybe 1000 miles on it. This is definitely a power cut-out like fuel or spark loss.

Autolites I put in are stock gap (.052 I think). The platinums that were in it were the double tips - couldn't check the gap but didn't look worn. The TPS was around 1 at idle and 5 at WOT but I did it while running. Didn't even think of testing it KOEO!! That would allow me to take my time...

Put the old coil back in - no help. Cleaned the MAF and put a paper filter in - no help. TPS low/high voltages check out ok.

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I put new plugs in this weekend. Didn't help. Someone suggested plug wires but I really don't think it's that. The MSDs are not that old and they're the good Heli-Core (solid-wire) ones. Boots all look ok. It's just real hard to believe they've gone bad this quickly. The thing that doesn't...

I put new plugs in this weekend. Didn't help. I really don't thing it's plug wires. The MSDs are not that old and they're the good Heli-Core (solid-wire) ones. Boots all look ok. It's just real hard to believe they've gone bad this quickly. The thing that doesn't make sense in terms of being...

EGR appears to be ok. I pulled the vac line and operated it manually and that caused a fault code. Doing that helped me finally figure out the codes!!! I've been reading the 3 3 1 3 3 as a two digit 33 code with a 1 for a separator. It's actually a 111 111 1 111 111. The pauses are alot...

Well I guess the upside is this means I don't need to spend 80 bucks on a new EGR valve! I'll try to run over to Autozone tomorrow or Weds and try using their reader and see if I can get a good reading.

The 94-95 has the OBD-1 and the 96 and later are OBD-2 correct? I believe the OBD-1 is also refered to as an EEC-IV (compared to the OBD-2 as an EEC-V) in my Haynes manual. Both the code charts that were posted show 2 digit codes for the EEC-IV (even though my Haynes manual only shows 3 didgit...