Progress Thread 1/4 mile guess?

78mIIman

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Dec 19, 2016
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Hello gentlemen.....so I posted a couple years back about the ii project.. and from then to now heres what I finished building. 302 small block, forged rods, hyper pistons- stock flat tops with 4 valve reliefs, edelbrock performer rpm heads, edelbrock rpm cam, scorpion 1.6:1 roller rockers (stock raito), long tube headers, msd distributor, parker funnelweb 302 high rise intake, and holley 750 double pumper carb- choke milled off. Deleted power steering, and have underdrive pulleys- just crank, water pump, and alternator. And backed by a 69 mustang C4 with manual shift kit with a 2800 stall. Have an 8" posi rear end with 3.80:1 on 235/60-14 BFG rear tires. I believe that equates to roughly 28" tall tires. No interior- only 2 front seats, dash, and steering wheel- all panels, carpeting, and rear seats are out. Battery in spare tire space. Thinking about purchacing frame connectors and traction bars.

ROUGH estimate- what would an expected 1/4 mile time be? Edelbrock advertises their RPM top end kits produces about 367 hp. While I realize it is not that much, I was having a blast with stock smog heads and very mild crane cam- probably MAYBE 180hp. I haven't actually drove the car with this new top end kit..i Just fired it up, broke in the cam, and got derailed with another project that was much more pressing...and then the cold hit. Really anticipating spring to come soon. Let me know what YOU think
Thanks guys
 
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74stang2togo

NERD!
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If it hooks up, and you can shift in the sweet spot, you could see 12s with practice and getting it dialed in.

ElSuperPinto was running 12.9s years ago with 267rwhp thanks to it's light weight, drag radials, and a skilled driver (wasn't me). Mustang IIs are light enough that it doesn't take huge power to make them scary quick.
 

LILCBRA

I started this morning by knocking out some studs
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Dec 6, 2005
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Copied/pasted from my first YouTube video. Not much of an estimate as I spun my tires for almost the whole length of the track, but imagine if I had hooked. I only got 2 passes that day and haven't had it to a track since. One thing it taught me is I need more traction and A LOT more practice!!

302 short block with flat tops
Melling cam 290/300 duration (214/224 @.050) .507/.533 lift
1.7 roller rockers
Trick Flow heads
Metallic ceramic coated headers
2 1/2" exhaust through turbo mufflers
High flow fuel pump
High flow aluminum water pump
Ford Motorsports oil cooler
High volume oil pump
Electric puller fan
T-5 Swap from a 95 Mustang GT
8" rear with 3.55 gears
175/80-13 front 245/50-13 rear
Hood scoop is from an 83 Mustang GT, modified by myself
Gas tank is from an 89 Mustang modified by myself
Desktop Dyno estimated 370 HP @6000 355 ftlb @4500
Not been actually dynoed to find out, nor have I been to the track to know a quarter time yet
UPDATE....sort of....
ran the car this last weekend (10/19/08) in the 1/8th. only run 2 passes with a best time of 9.824. The biggest problem I had was traction. I spun through 1st and 2nd gear, and got to 3rd at the end of the track and spun a little again.


An 1/8 mile time of 9.824 converts to around 15.57. Like I said, imagine if I had traction!

Now, I will say that frame connectors are almost a must. Traction bars didn't really help me all that much, and they still don't now that I've gotten wider tires and a locker. They might if you have slicks but the engine basically overpowers any benefit they give with street shoes. Otherwise I agree with @74stang2togo - probably somewhere in the 12s if you can find traction.
 

78mIIman

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Dec 19, 2016
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I agree..traction will be the biggest challenge to face..Not sure what other option for a tire to go to. The only slicks I can find for 14" wheel will be bias ply. From what I hear, it is unwise to run a rear bias ply tire with a radial up front. Thanks for the input guys, what an awesome forum.
 

LILCBRA

I started this morning by knocking out some studs
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Probably not what you want to hear or do right now, but you may need to invest in some new wheels and tires for the track. These are the wheels I'm currently running on my car:


And here's a set of Nitto drag radials that I'm sure would fit. I run a 265/60-15 on mine with very few body modifications. I had to take a hammer to the seat belt retractor hump in the wheel well for example....


Hell, now that I've looked these up I may just get them for my car at some point!! lol
 

2Blue2

I partied with that dude!, um girl, um whatever...
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I guess It will run low and mid 13s until well dialed in.

+1 on the subframe connectors
 

78mIIman

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Dec 19, 2016
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Appreciate the [email protected] i'm open for suggestions! It's a work in progress, nothing happens over night as you all are aware of. Thank you for the suggestion. I was already thinking about upgrading to 15" wheels, probably 15x8 would be ideal to fit without cutting the wheel wells. I'll try to find some 15x8 slotted mags to match the front slotted mags, probably US mags (if they even offer 4 lug rims) and some sort of drag radial..since mixing bias ply with radials are a no-no.
 
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429MII

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My guess is mid 13's, although the numbers show it could be faster.

It snowballs somewhat to get a light car to give consistent good times. Drag slicks then leads to subframe connectors, and drag shocks for weight transfer. leaf clamps or new leafs to run straight. Driveshaft loop on account of using slicks, small block needs lots of gear.

This being said, the optimum gear ratio (in my opinion) to obtain the best times with a small block would need to be a lot higher, somewhere in the area of 4.10 to 4.56 as long as the engine will power clean to 6500 rpm.
 

74stang2togo

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My guess is mid 13's, although the numbers show it could be faster.

It snowballs somewhat to get a light car to give consistent good times. Drag slicks then leads to subframe connectors, and drag shocks for weight transfer. leaf clamps or new leafs to run straight. Driveshaft loop on account of using slicks, small block needs lots of gear.

This being said, the optimum gear ratio (in my opinion) to obtain the best times with a small block would need to be a lot higher, somewhere in the area of 4.10 to 4.56 as long as the engine will power clean to 6500 rpm.
A steep gear and an engine that pulls all the way past my shift point at 6000 is what makes ElSuperPinto tick.

The previous owner achieved traction with monoleafs and air shocks combined with stuffing the wheelwells full of BFG drag radials.

I ditched all of that (except the drag radials) and added subframe connectors and traction bars to make it a lot easier to launch.