12.8s, reliability, cornering ability

40th GT

New Member
Apr 7, 2004
916
0
0
Lawrenceville, GA
On the thread title, I've listed the three elements that I want from my car. I hope these are realistic things that can be had out of a Mustang because I don't want to trade my car in. I know about the article over at MD, the 5 necessary components for 12's on a 2v GT, but I'd like to turn more than twice in a race so I want a multi-purpose set up. Also, I've ruled out nitrous because it's not something that's always useable. So I guess the only way for me to break 12's is to raise engine output. Can someone please list the parts that I'll need to get there? Intercooled Vortech 9psi and what else? Also, can a 12 sec. 2v Mustang be a reliable daily driver?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


A mild blown 2V will be extremely reliable! You can make your 12 sec goal NA but that would require more of a strip suspension so extra hp from a blower and a corner carver suspension will be the trade off. I think your goals are easily attainable.

Now the set ups we can suggest depend on how much money you want to spend. My goals are similar so instead of just bolting on the blower i chose to build a shortblock to handle the boost for the long term but this obviously requires a larger investment. With the blower and a nice MM suspension package you will have a fun fast reliable multi purpose car.
 
I would do all the bolt on's and a well sorted suspension setup for your need. That will have you in the 12's so you will be happy for a bit.
By then it will have given you time research all of you F.I. choices throughly. I personally would go the Turbo Route, or Novi 2000 or K.B. 2.2.
 
If you're planning on running 12's at the drag strip, then a set of drag wheels and slicks for the rear is a must. A set of skinnies for the front when you go to the drag strip would help shed some weight off the front end, and allow for better weight transfer. You can remove them once you leave the track.

Another thing you will need in order to maintain good balance between the street handling, and the strip would be adjustable struts and shocks.

Weight reduction is also good in terms of both handling, and the drag strip. So, I would probably convert to coil overs on the front and rear. That would save both weight, and allow for better handling.

Something else that needs to seriously be considered is power and gearing. Without the right combination of gearing and horsepower, you're never going to be fast in anyway, whether it's cornering speed you want, or drag strip speed.

What mods do you have done to your car now ?
 
all you need to run 12.8 and handle good is $$$.

If doing it over again I would just buy the KB 9spi kit and the maximum motorsports road and track box.

that is about 7k worth of stuff but that gives you a low 12sec on street rubber and a car that will just carve corners. I mean I paid 21k for the car If I would have just done that the next day there is not car you can buy for 28k that would even come near you in the corners or a strait line.

you could cut some corners and just buy the kb 6psi or mongoose kit that should get you to 12.8 with practice. then run the MM starter box with subframes and LCA's added in the mix. this is about the suspension I have now and it handles good.
 
$4900 Kenne Bell 1.7 9 psi Intercooled
$800 Kenne Bell big tube kit with 75mm TB

Maximum Motorsports: roughly $3200
Kmember, a-arms, Bilstein coilover all 4 corners, panhard bar, SFC, LCA

Evolution Motorsports: $425
tri-link

and finish off with an x-pipe with the catback of your choice, $700

Believe or not, the goals for my car is EXACTLY the same goal you have for you car. This is the route I'm taking, and it's probably the best route.
 
JayC said:
Sell the GT and buy a used 03/04 Cobra...you'll be much better off :nice: If you mod your car to perform the way you want it will be worth less than a bone stock car.:nono:



Jay
Cobras are cool, but I love my car and I'm not ready to let it go yet. That's why I listed reliability as one of my main needs.
 
squares98 said:
By then it will have given you time research all of you F.I. choices throughly. I personally would go the Turbo Route, or Novi 2000 or K.B. 2.2.
He asked for 12's, not 10's. Those choices are all waaayy overkill and far too expensive.

The 1.7KB is alright, but again fairly expensive if high-12's is his only goal. A plain Jane Vortech S-Trim based mongoose kit spinning at a stock short block friendly 8psi along with a set of 3.73-4.10 gears would do it. Add a few intake and exhaust mods and even mid-12's are possible. All without the aid of an intercooler, or sacrifice in reliability of general fuel economy.

Another option would be an Allen Supercharger similar to mine. The REV II kits make as much horsepower as the 1.7KB does up to about 9psi and is less expensive to boot. :shrug:

Here's 12.6 out of a stock Bullitt with so-so driving and the REV II supercharger kit
http://www.allen-superchargers.com/Steve12.6109.wmv
 
40th GT said:
All I have currently is the Magnaflow Magnapacks, K&N with removed silencer, and a Steeda Tri-ax.

So I'm pretty much stock.
Well, in that case I highly recommend your next mod to be a set of Sub-frame connectors. They're definately worth the money, and the good thing is they won't clash with any future mods. Another thing I would look into is a mid-pipe, and maybe some headers.

From that point, you need to decide if you want to go boosted, or not, as that is going to effect future modifcation decisions.
 
Those are the exact same goals I have and here is the formula I plan to use:

PI Swap (doesn't apply to you, you have PI parts)
Cams (VT stage 1,2; comp 262's....you pick)
All bolt-on power mods (LT's, x-pipe, plenum, TB, CB, Pullies, 4.10's, etc.)
H&R race springs, bilstein shocks/struts, LCA's, SFC's, c/c plates, PHB, K-member
17"x9" rims all around with DR's.

I should be able to hit consistant high 12's and be able to carve corners well. Sure, it will be expensive, but I'll be N/A and running even with a few FI'd cars. If I ever decided to go FI, I'd build up the engine first, and if I did all that, it would be more expensive than the N/A set-up I'm planning, but that's just for me. If you don't mind throwing on a blower with stock internals, then that is probably your easiest route. Personaly, I wouldn't do it that way.
 
40th GT said:
Cobras are cool, but I love my car and I'm not ready to let it go yet. That's why I listed reliability as one of my main needs.

What you want is exactly what the 03/03 Cobra has to offer, with reliability, You'll spend more getting your GT to that level and then lose it all when you resale. The Cobra will resale for much more than a modded GT:flag:




Jay
 
JayC said:
What you want is exactly what the 03/03 Cobra has to offer, with reliability, You'll spend more getting your GT to that level and then lose it all when you resale. The Cobra will resale for much more than a modded GT:flag:




Jay


It's not everyone who build up his car with resale value in mind! For my part I coudln't afford a 03/04 Cobra so I bought a GT and I'm slowly, as money comes in, building it the way I want and I dont want to sale it!!! Cobra are cool car(I dream of having one) but we cant all have one!!!
 
MarcoCapone said:
It's not everyone who build up his car with resale value in mind! For my part I coudln't afford a 03/04 Cobra so I bought a GT and I'm slowly, as money comes in, building it the way I want and I dont want to sale it!!! Cobra are cool car(I dream of having one) but we cant all have one!!!
Exactly :nice: Sure, I could have saved up and bought a 99-04 GT instead of a 96 and PI swapping it and all, but the fun of owning a mustang is modding it, plus, I like the looks of the 94-98 better.
 
Dark Knight GT said:
If you're planning on running 12's at the drag strip, then a set of drag wheels and slicks for the rear is a must. A set of skinnies for the front when you go to the drag strip would help shed some weight off the front end, and allow for better weight transfer. You can remove them once you leave the track.

Another thing you will need in order to maintain good balance between the street handling, and the strip would be adjustable struts and shocks.

Weight reduction is also good in terms of both handling, and the drag strip. So, I would probably convert to coil overs on the front and rear. That would save both weight, and allow for better handling.

Something else that needs to seriously be considered is power and gearing. Without the right combination of gearing and horsepower, you're never going to be fast in anyway, whether it's cornering speed you want, or drag strip speed.

What mods do you have done to your car now ?

Dont forget to beef up the rear end as well: Welded axle tubes, 31 spline rear axle, aftermarket locking differential.