12 second recipe

[Leftoverchinese]

Hello all,
Id like to get my 06 GT in the twelves. What parts are needed to do this N/A?
Mind you i have an auto to deal with here.
I know going the nitrous route would be easier. Thanks for any input....Joe

 

[66_stang]

Xcal2 JLT cai 4.10's axle back exhaust and some sticky tires. Maybe slight suspension mods to help with traction.

 

[LarryS]

You can do it with one item, a properly sized torque converter.

Of course that would include traction which might also include a properly set up rear suspension for a level, wheel hop free launch.

I've ran a 13.42 with just an underdrive pulley and 93 octane. A converter should be good for .6 to .7 on our cars.

 

[Leftoverchinese]

i recieved my summit catalog a while ago, and in it was a TCI converter for the new Mustangs thats rated at a 3000 stall. Would that be too much for the street?

 

[LarryS]

i recieved my summit catalog a while ago, and in it was a TCI converter for the new Mustangs thats rated at a 3000 stall. Would that be too much for the street?

That is probably a good choice for the street but won't give maximum ET. Based on our 4500 peak torque you will need a 4000 RPM stall. I have a 3600 in my Camaro and it's fairly streetable. It just takes a little more rpm to accelerate. If you do a lot of start and stop driving then the 3000 might be a good choice but if you drive mostly freeway/highway then definitely get a 4000. Once the converter locks it doesn't matter what stall you have.

 

[cleveland]

That is probably a good choice for the street but won't give maximum ET. Based on our 4500 peak torque you will need a 4000 RPM stall. I have a 3600 in my Camaro and it's fairly streetable. It just takes a little more rpm to accelerate. If you do a lot of start and stop driving then the 3000 might be a good choice but if you drive mostly freeway/highway then definitely get a 4000. Once the converter locks it doesn't matter what stall you have.

uhhhhhh, 3000 stall is going to be pretty much perfect and 4000 stall is way too high. You should do some research on matching components correctly.

If your power band lays between 3000 and 6000 rpm a 3000 stall is right for you and can be safely used on the street. 4000 stall for a daily driven car is going to create a lot of heat within the transmission and it just isnt "streetable" anymore. Peak torque simply put isnt the figure you want to look at when picking a converter.

I've built a 383 Cleveland that makes power from 4000 on and can rev to 7500, I can provide details to prove that I know what Im talking about. The cam is what dictates the engine's performance characteristics and when you go shopping for converters the cam specs are very important to have to pick what will maximize performance. Be it a pushrod or follower engine, torque converter selection follows the same guidelines.

Lastly, upgrading to a 3k stall will not net you .6 or .7 in the quarter mile, its actually more like .2 or .3. And yes, I know from first hand experience.

-Dan

 

[1ba96gt]

4000 stall for a daily driven car is going to create a lot of heat within the transmission and it just isnt "streetable" anymore.
-Dan

False, I drive a 5000rpm stall on my 96 GT. It does have a trans-cooler which I'd suggest for any TC, though. I'm not disagreeing with everything else you said but you can go over 4000 stall and be streetable. I actually drove a 2005 GT race built car that had a 5800rpm stall on the street and drove amazingly well. Was not the stock transmission tho. Sorry for rambling.

Cliff Notes: You can go higher than 3000rpm stall without concern. How much higher depends a lot of varibles though.


12sec= tires, gear, cai, lca, UD pullies and tune. Known guy with that combo that went 12.6s

 

[LarryS]

uhhhhhh, 3000 stall is going to be pretty much perfect and 4000 stall is way too high. You should do some research on matching components correctly.

If your power band lays between 3000 and 6000 rpm a 3000 stall is right for you and can be safely used on the street. 4000 stall for a daily driven car is going to create a lot of heat within the transmission and it just isnt "streetable" anymore. Peak torque simply put isnt the figure you want to look at when picking a converter.

I've built a 383 Cleveland that makes power from 4000 on and can rev to 7500, I can provide details to prove that I know what Im talking about. The cam is what dictates the engine's performance characteristics and when you go shopping for converters the cam specs are very important to have to pick what will maximize performance. Be it a pushrod or follower engine, torque converter selection follows the same guidelines.

Lastly, upgrading to a 3k stall will not net you .6 or .7 in the quarter mile, its actually more like .2 or .3. And yes, I know from first hand experience.

-Dan

I think you need to do the research before you pass out false information! You've got some bad "first hand experience"!

 

[Kyle F]

12s=CAI and 93 Octane Tune, Long Tubes with or without catted H or X-pipe, Under Drive Pulley, 4.10's, Upper Control Arm, 3000 Stall converter, and Sticky tires.

 

[Camarokillz28]

YOu need more than a stall and some decent tires I would think. Im not sure about mustang suspension, but control arms and torque arms do wonders! Maybe a cai, and a decent cat-back, personally I would stay away from flowmaster and lean more towards bassani or slp...gotta admit do love the way the stang sounds!

 

[1ba96gt]

YOu need more than a stall and some decent tires I would think. Im not sure about mustang suspension, but control arms and torque arms do wonders! Maybe a cai, and a decent cat-back, personally I would stay away from flowmaster and lean more towards bassani or slp...gotta admit do love the way the stang sounds!

You would probably actually be very close to 12s with a good quality, and some what high rpm stall and tires. It is a little expensive though, and the stall helps on the strip. Its not a real big difference on the street when you are cruising and get on it. As far as cat back they are a non performace mod basically on the 2005+ stangs. The new suspension is pretty decent, but some LCAs will help wheel hop when launching.

 

[LarryS]

You would probably actually be very close to 12s with a good quality, and some what high rpm stall and tires. It is a little expensive though, and the stall helps on the strip. Its not a real big difference on the street when you are cruising and get on it.

Tremendous difference on the street when cruising. No matter what speed you are going you get good acceleration. You don't get that lag waiting for the rpm to catch up when you go WOT at speeds you would normally be out of the peak torque range.

 

[1ba96gt]

Tremendous difference on the street when cruising. No matter what speed you are going you get good acceleration. You don't get that lag waiting for the rpm to catch up when you go WOT at speeds you would normally be out of the peak torque range.

With a lower one that is probably true, my mistake. I've gotten used to mine that is set pretty damn high, and its been a long time since I've driven with out it.

 

[gp001]

i recieved my summit catalog a while ago, and in it was a TCI converter for the new Mustangs thats rated at a 3000 stall. Would that be too much for the street?

Your best bet is to ask the experts

http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/torque_converters_explained.htm

 

[eric n]

I'm not there, but I would assume that an auto would be on the edge if not in the 12's with a good CAI, a Bama Tune, 4.10's, some bigger sticker meats and underdrive pullies.

I mean if these things are doing 13.6 or lower regularly on 87 octane...... It should take much to get 12.9.

But then again I could be wrong, let me know what you think America.....dial 1 800 LACTOSE.