Man, you are the General! And an oracle.Once a spark plug starts arcing that means the covering it split/burnt or otherwise compromised, just because it ain't near something to draw a spark does not mean it is fixed.
Replace that plug wire and I bet the miss/studder or whatever goes away.
Oh, and if the vacuum line to the purge canister is rotted/broken or the purge valve is malfunctioning that may cause a lean condition.
It's amazing to think that these cars were engineered back in the mid 1970s and how well they run and work when using quality parts.Like most of us you now have an aftermarket coil in a box in your garage I wouldnt mind my sixty bucks back.
I think I read somewhere that the brake pedal plunger doesn't fully disengage the brakes on the non Cobra booster and its possible to have some brake pad dragging issues. I noticed my front wheels don't spin completely freely. I'm sure someone can chime in about that.It was a huge pain for me. Mine hit my tall valve covers. It wouldve been a lot easier had I removed my upper intake and valve cover. I had to enlongate the holes in my firewall, cut the studs on the booster, and dent my strut tower. It was a test of my patience but worth it. I think strut towers changed throughout the years (atleast I think I remember reading that?). Your experience may be different.
I'll try that. Thanks. Are there really any benefits to going with the Cobra booster? My brakes are great now with the small booster. I'm not sure if there were 4 cylinder boostersJust need to adjust the pedal rod. Pretty simple to do. Max motorsports has some writeups.
if you put your front wheels up and notice they are grabbing, loosen the two bolts on the MC enough to pull it away 1/4” or so and see if they free up.