Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

Habu135

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Habu135

Advanced Member
Jan 10, 2019
735
447
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California
Just need to adjust the pedal rod. Pretty simple to do. Max motorsports has some writeups.

if you put your front wheels up and notice they are grabbing, loosen the two bolts on the MC enough to pull it away 1/4” or so and see if they free up.
Any chance you can attach the link? I tried searching for it and don't find anything by MM other than manual brake pedal swap out articles, etc.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Habu135

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Finished the brake booster install today. Took me more time than anticipated and I ended up removing my driver's side seat, much of the lower dashboard below the steering wheel, the intake, clutch cable and the windshield wiper motor. I ended up cutting down the two bolts on the passenger's side of the booster and slotting the two passenger side holes. The booster slipped in with a little motivation. The most difficult part was figuring out why the brake switch would not work as before. It would stay upright causing the brake lights to stay on or too far downward and the brake lights would never come on. I ended up using the universal tool - a zip tie.

Overall the Cardone booster gives the car a more traditional and progressive brake pedal. Spongy at first with growing firmness and increased braking capacity as the pedal is pushed. The 4 cylinder booster was always rock hard. I'll have to get used to the new booster.

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Habu135

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My car is still exhibiting the previously discussed hesitation at speed. To date I've replaced:
all 8 spark plugs, gapped at .55
all 8 spark plug wires
Oxygen sensors
Cap and rotor
Fuel filter
Coil.

Car idles fine with no surging and returns to idle fine when coming to a stop. MAF sensor was cleaned by me within the last week.. Timing is set at 10 degrees.

Today I ran an extension to my fuel pressure gauge and did not observe any wild swing in pressure while driving it. Pressure was consistent between 38-42 unless I accelerate hard. Then it goes up to 42-44'ish.

The car had a recent valve job so it's mechanically sound. I'm running out of ideas and don't really want to blindly keep throwing parts at it. Thoughts?
 
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Habu135

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Sorry, can you give us (me) a refresher on when and what happens when it acts up.
Thanks on behalf of members (me) that suffer from crs.
The car seems to get hot and then suffers from a sort of hesitation. I can feel a loss of power and then jerking throughout the driveline that comes from the engines. It feels like early cylinder detonation.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I can figure you have replaced the usual things and tightened the prongs on the ten pin connectors, have you checked the timing chain?
The hot engine 'studder' is rough to pin down but is usually a electrical connection.
 

Habu135

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I can figure you have replaced the usual things and tightened the prongs on the ten pin connectors, have you checked the timing chain?
The hot engine 'studder' is rough to pin down but is usually a electrical connection.
The salt and pepper shakers are fully seated. Correct me if I'm wrong regarding the ten pin connectors.

I haven't checked the timing chain.

All electrical parts are connected and seem intact.
 
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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Nothing really jumps out at me. Just clean them up, spread the pins a tad, apply some light dielectric grease and reconnect.
 

Habu135

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Car is still doing it.

The best way for me to get the car to exhibit this behavior is to drive it hard once or twice. This seems to trigger something, maybe a switch, and the car dips in rpms and then acts odd. The best way for me to describe it is a sort of consistent misfire. The car's power decreases and as you accelerate the car bucks a little and surges forward rather than accelerating in a progressive manner. The car has an electric fan, but that is not what I'm feeling (car bucking).

I think the next logical part to throw at it is a new fuel pump.
 
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