Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build
- Thread starter Habu135
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
as it should. Should be 35 psi or so at idle and 39-42psi when you give it the beans
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,821
- 5,858
- 203
It could be something weird with the computer itself. People here have had good results with ECUexchange on ebay. They only deal there and you have to send your computer to them and they replace the caps and wear items and fix whatever else they see. These computers were never expected to live 30+ years. I dealt with a different ecu exchange company but have since lost all the info. It really isn't expensive....and after that you can clear the computer having an issue from the back of your mind.
Ran codes again. Got the same ghost codes as before (85 and 87), but with a new one #95 -Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault.
Also did the Cylinder Balance Test. Received a 90 -System is OK, all cylinders are contributing equally.
Also did the Cylinder Balance Test. Received a 90 -System is OK, all cylinders are contributing equally.
Hmm to 95. Intermittent power loss to the pump? That’s usually the only thing that triggers that code
The latter. The wire to the ECU only monitors the fuel pump relay. I’d clear the codes. Go for. Rip, duplicate the problem, and then see if code 95 is back.
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,197
- 164
Has the ignition switch been replaced? This causes slot of these similar issues and is cheap to replace as they go bad over time as well.
I don't think the ignition has been replaced. The key looks pretty worn.
Attachments
Came across this old post while doing more research:
If you've checked everything else and you have:
Good Spark & Good Fuel Pressure at the rail,
and decided that your injectors are not pulsing,
(another symptom will be, the fuel pump runs continualy with key on, & MIL stays on when trying to self test);
Then check the 10uf electrolytic capacitor inside the EEC!
The negative lead sometimes fries and it will also take out the trace on the circuit board, which you will also have to repair!
I will say that my fuel pump does remain on consistently.
Good to know about a NO START condition!
If you've checked everything else and you have:
Good Spark & Good Fuel Pressure at the rail,
and decided that your injectors are not pulsing,
(another symptom will be, the fuel pump runs continualy with key on, & MIL stays on when trying to self test);
Then check the 10uf electrolytic capacitor inside the EEC!The negative lead sometimes fries and it will also take out the trace on the circuit board, which you will also have to repair!
I will say that my fuel pump does remain on consistently.
My car starts fine although when it's driven hard and the car is hot it does struggle to start occasionally and requires a little gas pedal messaging.Not the actual ignotion, but this switch under
Cleared the "Continuous Memory" codes and did another Key On Engine Off check. Came up with 95 again (Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault). This car is a former 4 cylinder and either the pump was wired to always be on or the EEC is dying, but most likely the former. Unknown if the fuel pump is original, but since 30 pound injectors were installed as well as a number of other goodies I would think the pump was upgraded.
I'm leaning toward swapping out the pump with a 155 or 190 LPH Walbro. Is there any point in swapping out the fuel pump relay underneath the MAF meter? That would be cheaper and easier, but I'm not sure if that's relevant.
I can generally trigger the car to act up if I hot rod it a bit. It will get hot and then begin to stutter while cruising.
I'm leaning toward swapping out the pump with a 155 or 190 LPH Walbro. Is there any point in swapping out the fuel pump relay underneath the MAF meter? That would be cheaper and easier, but I'm not sure if that's relevant.
I can generally trigger the car to act up if I hot rod it a bit. It will get hot and then begin to stutter while cruising.
HemiRick
I'd be looking at jacking under the house
If you have a high speed miss, the TFI may very well be at fault....they have a failure mode where they work but miss @ high RPM above 3500
It's at all rpms. The only thing that is consistent is that the engine gets hot and then acts up.
I'll treat my car to a Standard Motor Products RY214 relay and see if that does the trick. If not I'll be looking to a Walbro 190 LPH pump.
Similar threads
- Locked
