Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

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Once a spark plug starts arcing that means the covering it split/burnt or otherwise compromised, just because it ain't near something to draw a spark does not mean it is fixed.
Replace that plug wire and I bet the miss/studder or whatever goes away.
Oh, and if the vacuum line to the purge canister is rotted/broken or the purge valve is malfunctioning that may cause a lean condition.
 
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Once a spark plug starts arcing that means the covering it split/burnt or otherwise compromised, just because it ain't near something to draw a spark does not mean it is fixed.
Replace that plug wire and I bet the miss/studder or whatever goes away.
Oh, and if the vacuum line to the purge canister is rotted/broken or the purge valve is malfunctioning that may cause a lean condition.
Man, you are the General! And an oracle.
 

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Like most of us you now have an aftermarket coil in a box in your garage I wouldnt mind my sixty bucks back.
It's amazing to think that these cars were engineered back in the mid 1970s and how well they run and work when using quality parts.

I have no regrets with installing that Motorcraft coil. In fact, I'm looking forward to switching out some other aftermarket parts to Ford. Lightning MAF for example.

Again, big thanks to everyone for their input. Now on to the next item.
 
I'm thinking about swapping my original 4 cylinder booster for the Cardone ('93 Cobra) one. I've done my research and it sounds like a pain, but is doable if I drill a second hole for the top left and exercise patience. Will I need to remove my intake as well?
 

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It was a huge pain for me. Mine hit my tall valve covers. It wouldve been a lot easier had I removed my upper intake and valve cover. I had to enlongate the holes in my firewall, cut the studs on the booster, and dent my strut tower. It was a test of my patience but worth it. I think strut towers changed throughout the years (atleast I think I remember reading that?). Your experience may be different.
 
If you get a true 93 cobra booster, no need to drill anything. You might want to gently slot the holes a little to the pass side.

I trimmed my studs down when I installed mine (just the two oj the pass side) and thar made install a little easier.

no hammer was used.

I took my intake off
 
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It was a huge pain for me. Mine hit my tall valve covers. It wouldve been a lot easier had I removed my upper intake and valve cover. I had to enlongate the holes in my firewall, cut the studs on the booster, and dent my strut tower. It was a test of my patience but worth it. I think strut towers changed throughout the years (atleast I think I remember reading that?). Your experience may be different.
I think I read somewhere that the brake pedal plunger doesn't fully disengage the brakes on the non Cobra booster and its possible to have some brake pad dragging issues. I noticed my front wheels don't spin completely freely. I'm sure someone can chime in about that.
 
Just need to adjust the pedal rod. Pretty simple to do. Max motorsports has some writeups.

if you put your front wheels up and notice they are grabbing, loosen the two bolts on the MC enough to pull it away 1/4” or so and see if they free up.
 
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Just need to adjust the pedal rod. Pretty simple to do. Max motorsports has some writeups.

if you put your front wheels up and notice they are grabbing, loosen the two bolts on the MC enough to pull it away 1/4” or so and see if they free up.
I'll try that. Thanks. Are there really any benefits to going with the Cobra booster? My brakes are great now with the small booster. I'm not sure if there were 4 cylinder boosters
 
It will change pedal effort. If you are happy with pedal effort, then no need to change. If you feel like you need to give it the beans to get the brakes to respond, the. You may want to go with a larger booster.

there is a smaller 4cyl booster as well