$1400, what now?

[NotoriousGT350]

I already spent $850 on a Dell yesterday instead of my car I just need my mustang to get me around for another year til I become an RN, then I could spend some money on the motor, etc. What suggestions do you have for me with around $1400? The mustang is my daily driver, car has around 180K, motor has 50K+ on stock rebuild,and I have no other car. I average around 250-280 in 2 weeks. Like to take it to the track maybe once a month.

My concerns....
1. I have an overheating problem with it rising to 230* in city with A/C on.Never did this until almost 3 months ago.
a. I already have a 180* stat, just need to put it on and see if that will solve the problem.IF NOT, deduct some money for possibly an electric fan and radiator? What about a Proform electric fan from JEG's or should I just get a Flex-a-lite fan?

2. Stock braking system is damn scary!!! Wheels lock up and then I need a new pair of briefs
a.Can an adjustable proportioning valve help to get by for now or would I be better off upgrading to rear disc brakes?(Remember, once I'm an RN, I'll spend some serious money in the braking department).

3. I have been itching for some suspension components off Latemodel Restoration Supply such as control arms and a panhard bar.
a. How about HPM mega-bite jr. LCA($227.94),mega-bite adjustable UCA($239.95), HPM subframes($69.95), HPM HD panhard rod kit($269.95-319.95).?

Suggestions and opinions are very welcomed. Thanks. Oh yeah, are there any lower prices than the ones I listed off for the suspension components? If so, where? Thank you.


J.R.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

My vote would be a MM Grip in a Box package....that's what i'm getting when tax return time rolls around. Suspension stuff kicks arse.

 

[90mustangGT]

Don't look at the whole car and the parts catalog and get depressed, just make a list of what bothers you the most, and concentrate on that.

First of all, you need to do something about the cooling system. 230* is way too high and the t-stat isn't going to help. Is it running hot moving or when sitting still, or both. If it's only getting hot when sitting still, then that means the fan clutch is probally bad. You could either do a stock replacment, but I would do a HD clutch if I was going that route, or you could go electric, there's flexalite, proform, and factory ford fans that work well. This will run you cooler both for the engine and A/C. If you running hot moving, or running hot all the time, then a radiator should be first on the list. I have the GoDan "maximum cooling" 3 row copper, maby not the best, but a far better than stocker.

After you get the cooling issues fixed, time to fix what bothers you the most next. That seems to be brakes. Where are they locking up? Something's wrong, fox brakes suck, but not that bad. Brakes are a little complex for just throwing out suggestions, and don't go throwing parts at them either. So much out there that can go wrong, bad hoses, calipers, glazed rotors, hotspots, ect. Find out if there is something wrong with the stock brakes first, then go from there.




Mine don't lock up at all. No, I don't have ABS, just more traction than brakes.

 

[90mustangGT]

3. I have been itching for some suspension components off Latemodel Restoration Supply such as control arms and a panhard bar.
a. How about HPM mega-bite jr. LCA($227.94),mega-bite adjustable UCA($239.95), HPM subframes($69.95), HPM HD panhard rod kit($269.95-319.95).?

Suggestions and opinions are very welcomed. Thanks. Oh yeah, are there any lower prices than the ones I listed off for the suspension components? If so, where? Thank you.


J.R.

One more thing, try www.motorsport-depot.com for suspension parts, better prices than what you listed. But I would fix your other problem areas first.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Yeah, the top 3 starts off with most concern to least. I think I might just hold off on #3 until I do the whole suspension, bracing, and motor later on down the road. I think I might just upgrade the whole cooling system...radiator, electric fan, and a new water pump while I'm at it.

As for the brakes, there have been quite a few times where I've had to apply the brakes hard to avoid hitting a car or avoid getting hit by one and the tires just squel. I could be on loose gravel and apply the brakes and the car just slides. My old 65' stang could brake better with the upgraded front manual disc brakes, adj. proportioning valve.

With #3 put aside, I'll have a lot more money to get my problems fix and then some.

 

[DirtyD916]

ya get the colling system and problems figured out then go for the suspension.

 

[90mustangGT]

ya get the colling system and problems figured out then go for the suspension.

Actually, maby he'd better fix that brake problem first before New Front End finds it's way to the top of the list.

Natorious: You still didn't say which brakes were locking up?

 

[mob]

i would say suspension, new tranny unless urs is good(sry bout this lol it just came in my head), or bolt ons, my number one vote would be a full suspension or the most u coan do with the money or fix ur brake problem like a 5lug conversion, make rear disk, or just get new disks, or bigger brakes, the cobra 5-lug kit costs like 1000 i would look into that

 

[HISSIN50]

i agree. cooling and brakes should be tied for #1. either you are overstating how bad the problems are with the brakes, or they need to be high up on the list. you should not be flying through corners etc, with brake issues anyhow (leaving the suspensions useless).

as Jason asked, which brake(s) are locking up? you might just need a reman'd caliper for 20 bucks. please give more info. the gravel performance is normal if you dont feather the pedal.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

It seems like my front brakes are the ones locking up, but I can't really tell unless someone were to look at me slam on the brakes. I maybe overstating the braking issue, but with these Lubbock drivers here is scares me to have to depend on the brakes to come to a complete stop. I may order new radiator, electric fan in the next week, plus put on the 180* t-stat before I get started on brakes.

I know it may sound risky, but I'm going to see if I can get a friend to look at me brake in an open spot to see if it's my front or rear or both locking up.

 

[HISSIN50]

if components are working properly, the fronts should lock up first. if you have ever had rears lock up first, it is a SYP situation. brakes should be engineered to lock up front first.
also, IIRC, the left front should lock up before the right front, as the LF line is direct - the right front line is not direct.

you can also drive it normal and very carefully check the caliper and rotor temps. been doing this with a buddy. his LF caliper is dragging (the pin that the caliper floats on is galled up and not allowing the caliper to slide. so under hydraulic pressure it is forced down the pin to brake but upon releasing the pedal, there is no equivalant pressure to slide the caliper back to its original position. result is the inside pad drags pretty hard). the caliper and rotor on that side get much hotter.

as i said, BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN TESTING TEMPS ( A THERMAL PROBE DEALIE MIGHT BE GOOD). IM CAREFUL AND STILL BURNED MYSELF TOUCHING THE ROTOR). BE CAREFUL.

good luck.

 

[bmo37]

i say send it to me, paypal account is [email protected]

if not than I say go with whats broken first than work your way up to the performance stuff, odds are the cooling issue is the t-stat but if its not, i'd go for a new aluminum radiator and high flow water pump after making sure the stock fan clutch is ok.

Next I'd throw some power slotted rotors and new disc brakes up front, and replacement drums out back. About 90% of the braking is done by the front brakes not the rear so odds are those are worse. Unless your autocrossing I don't feel like you need huge brakes on a stang.

Finally after all the problems are addressed and you want the suspension stuff I also add to that list some torque box reinforcments, throwing new subframes on there will tear the stock ones to shredds. get them their cheap insurance.