1965 400HP Mustang For Sale

Discussion in 'Engine and Power Adder' started by 65mustang347, May 24, 2006.

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    You are looking at a 1965 Poppy Red Mustang C-Code Coupe with 65,000 original miles. The car was built May 06, 1965 in Dearborn, MI. I purchased the car 4 years ago from the 2nd owner in Pittsburgh, PA with the original 2V 289 for $9,000.00. I pulled the engine and had it professionally built by Gardner Racing Engines to a 347 stroker engine, using the original 1965 289 C-Code block so the numbers match. The cost of the engine block work alone was $6,192.00 which only includes the block, the heads and the internal components. Over $8,000.00 is invested in the engine alone! The car has never been raced or driven hard, only used for local car shows or cruises, never driven in rain, and stored from November to March. Please do not buy on this car if you are not planning on abusing it, I want to see this car go to a good home and see someone enjoy it! If you have any questions please contact me at [email protected]!!

    -1965 Mustang C-Code Coupe

    Door Plate Codes: 65A 3 26 06S 53 6 5
    VIN Number: 5F07C717585

    - Poppy Red Lacquer paint (Original 1965 Factory Color)

    - Original 1965 Ford 289 C-Code block with 347 Stroker Kit
    - 9.8-1 compression
    - 347 crankshaft
    - CompCams Polished Pushrods
    - CompCams hydraulic lifters
    - CompCams Roller Rockers
    - ARP 90,000lbs. Rocker Studs
    - Manley Stainless intake and exhaust valves
    - Xtreme Energy CompCams hydraulic roller camshaft
    - CompCams double Roller timing chain-gears
    - Keith Black Racing Pistons
    - H-Beam Connecting Rods
    - Clevite bearings
    - Melling high performance oil pump
    - Felpro Hi-Temp Gaskets
    - World Products Windsor heads
    - Edelbrock AIR-GAP RPM aluminum intake
    - Ford Motorsport valve covers & air cleaner
    - Autolite distributor with Taylor wires
    - Holley Dominator mechanical fuel pump
    - Holley 750 C.F.M. carb with Manual choke
    - ARP Stainless engine bolt kit
    - Custom made 3 Chamber Radiator
    - High speed Flex-a-Lite fan

    Estimated Horsepower: 400HP

    - Hooker Super Comp long tube headers
    - Custom 2 ½" Aluminized H-pipe
    - 2 Chamber 40 Series Flowmaster Mufflers
    - 2 ½" Custom Chrome Mandrel Bent tailpipes

    - Ford 8" Posi-Traction Rear End
    - Richmond 4.11 Gears
    - 28 Spline 5 lug axles
    - 4 Speed Manual Transmission
    - Heavy Duty 10 ½" Ram Racing Clutch

    - Gabriel Sensa-Trac Front Shocks
    - Gabriel Rear Hi-Jacker Air Shocks (200 PSI MAX)
    - Mustang front and rear drum brakes

    - 14x7 Magnum 500 Mustang rims
    - BFGoodrich 215/70/14 Radial T/A tires

    - NEW! Black Vinyl Seats
    - NEW! Black Loop Carpet
    - Autometer 10,000 RPM Tach
    - Dual Gauge cluster (Oil pressure - Water Temp)
    - Original 1965 AM Radio (Still Works)
    - Original 1965 Factory FOMOCO Speakers (Still Work)

    Price: $11,900.00 or make me an offer.. All reasonable offers will be considered!!

    Pictures can be found at: http://community.webshots.com/album/550574683KQsvoA
  2. Oh boy, another ebay auction post!

  3. Just joined to post the car. Oh well that is one of the uses of :SNSign: .
  4. Good for people like me. I check this forum A LOT more frequently than eBay.

    ONE Problem: I clicked on one of the pics, and it took me to a photo album. The car is a C-code, NOT an A-code. What gives?:shrug:

  5. Only 1 Day Left!! :jaw:
  6. Somebody just please buy this thing so this car dealer will go away?
  7. I'm not a car dealer.. But, YES.. "Somebody please buy this thing" :p
  8. OK, here is the deal. This is what, your third auction?

    It is a desirable car. The only reason you haven't sold it is because of price.

    After three auctions, you should have a pretty good idea what the car is worth. It's probably not the Barrett-Jackson number you originally had floating in your head, it is the average of the highest bids in those three actions.

    If that number is too low for you, keep the car. If that number is what you are willing to take, lower your reserve again and take the money.

    Post your ebay link again when you finally put a reasonable reserve on it.
  9. I'm getting sick of people listing their cars for $1,000,000 over what it is worth and wasting my time.

  10. Post of the year.
  11. I'm getting sick of people and their excuses..

    I have offered to anyone to make me an offer, any offer.. My reserve was $12000.. I have more then that invested in the car.. If someone is serious please look at your check book, contact me at [email protected], come take a look at the car, make me an offer at that point, then you can drive it.. How do you know what the car is worth without looking at it??

    Make me an offer.. Simple.. AND nothing stupid either.. :Damnit:

  12. Well.. what is "a reasonable reserve"
  13. Well that means I am asking $990,000 less then everyone else out there..
  14. Well, your last try went a little ove 10K. If that is too low, why don't you just keep it and enjoy it. It's obviusly not selling for what you want. It seems to be the going rate for a car ilike yours. Nobody will pay more for yours when they can get the same thing across the street for less, principle of substitution.

    Just average out your last 3 ending bids and make that close to the reserve. This is the thing about coupes is the resto work costs about the same as it would on a fb, but you'll find it hard to get your money back.
  15. It's a nice car, but Mr.Bob is correct.
  16. Last auction I saw...highest bid was $10,5XX. 1 Month ago, you were asking $11,900 (or reasonable offer) on here. That is a $1400 difference...I would definetly consider the $10,506 bid amount to be MORE than a reasonable offer.

    Now, onto what you have invested in the car. Of course you have more invested in it than what it will sell for. Thats just they way this hobby goes unless you have something that is rare, which, you do not.

    You state you have nearly $6200 invested in a stock block, internal components, and heads. So, you paid $6200 for a long block. That is quite a chunk of change to pay for a long block that isnt even a roller and does not have forged pistons, among other things. For $6200, someone can pick up a much nicer engine. As for paying $9000 for the car when you bought it, I have a feeling you may have paid a little too much. Heh, I am guilty of that too when i bought mine. The parts and components you have on there are nothing special. Your horsepower estimate....may be a tad on the generous side. You may want to have it dynoed and post up the dyno sheets showing the HP it makes. You might be able to get that extra $1400 out of it that you are looking for.

    My advice...take that highest bid you had and run with it...unless you had someone 'bidding up' the price for you. I certainly wouldnt pay more than $9k for it if everything checked out and was in excellent condition. 65-66 coupes just arent that desirable.
  17. Could I trade you my left pinky finger for it or my soul? If you want both I'll take the car and 2grand
  18. I have at least $40,000 into my car right now and I haven't even repainted or installed the new interior yet. By the time I will be done, I think I will have $50k in it, easy. If I ever put it up for sale, I will never, ever, ever, get my money back. Just the way it goes.
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