1965 Fastback project.

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by mustbereel, Aug 25, 2006.

  1. Any updates? How's it running - must be all finished by now I should think?

    Any more pics - you were getting near to completion the last time I checked in ...


    uk66fastback ...
  2. Hey must be done by now ...


    Any more info on the car? Surely you've racked up a good few miles by now and ironed out the gremlins - although I'm sure there weren't (m)any.

    Cheers from the UK ...


  3. It will never be done.

    Surprise thread resurrection of the day!

    The car isn't finished and I'm still working on those gremlins but it is driveable. I think the interior turned out nice but the exterior isn't quite where I want it. The Webers still need to be tuned but that should be taken care of in the next couple of months.
    I changed from hydraulic to cable clutch. I changed from JMC dual master cylinders to SVO Mustang MC. I had to relocate the seat pan down and back. I changed to a Flaming River tilt steering column so I could drive without hitting my legs (I'm 6'4").

    The good: Aluminum 347 with Webers. Very powerfull and responsive.
    Heidt's IRS. Rides nice, tracks true over bumps (even under power) and hooks better than I expected.
    Interior turned out really nice. I like the modern seats.
    Chassis is very stiff and the car handles well.
    About 2900 lbs. Heavier than expected but still very light.

    The bad: Fiberglass and repo panels fit like crap. Between the fiberglass fenders, repro doors and repro quarter panels I couldn't get any two features to line up. Gaps are horrible. I wasn't looking for show car quality but I'm dissapointed.
    Webers are a pain to tune. It's time for professional help.
    TKO-500 grinds going into 3rd. I may have damaged it by missing the shift too many times with the hydraulic setup.
    My painting abilities. I'm seriously considering having at least the clear reshot. I've kind of stopped working on it until I decide what to do about the paint.
    Also, I really don't like the hood I chose. I may end up going with a Shelby style hood.

    I don't have a good picture with the car clean but here it is with polishing compound all over it:


    And engine bay:

    Hope your fastback project is going well.

    Attached Files:

  4. Ill take your hood :)
  5. You mentioned that you used "a fresh air respirator with hood." Could you tell me what one you got and how much it cost?

    My dad did body work for a long time and in his day (up to '94) he used charcoal filter painting masks. He thinks using them again one last time won't hurt anything.

    I don't think that will fly anymore and I would rather buy one and say here it is, so let use it than chance it. Since I can do all of the body work with him, I think an inventment in the right breathing system is a small price to pay.

    P.S. has anyone painted recently with a charcoal filter painting mask? And how did that go? (And can I assume that if I get no replies to this question, they are all dead?)
  6. I hate you:mad:

    ...jk, beautiful ride you got there:nice:
  7. If you are using a BC/CC paint system I highly recommend the fresh air hood. These paints can cause respiratory and nervous system ailments and the effect is cumulative. Other paints are not quite as dangerous. Also make sure to cover all exposed skin. One last time time could be too much.

    I bought my respirator off ebay. I think it was just over $300. Just search for "fresh air respirator" and you'll find several examples. Get a full hood and make sure you have at least 50' of hose so you can get the air pump far away from the fumes and still have enough range to get around the car. You don't want to pump the paint fumes directly into your face! A nice side benefit is it keeps you nice and cool while painting.
  8. Could you explain this more? What is wrong with exposed skin? (say hands/arms)
  9. The main problem with the BB/CC paints are isocyanates in the hardeners. I found this at the link below:

    Isocyanates are powerful irritants to the mucous membranes of the eyes and gastrointestinal and respiratory tracts. Direct skin contact can also cause marked inflammation. Isocyanates can also sensitize workers, making them subject to severe asthma attacks if they are exposed again. Death from severe asthma in some sensitized subjects has been reported. Workers potentially exposed to isocyanates who experience persistent or recurring eye irritation, nasal congestion, dry or sore throat, cold-like symptoms, cough, shortness of breath, wheezing, or chest tightness should see a physician knowledgeable in work-related health problems.


  10. The hood may end up on my 65 coupe if I change it. But we'll see.
  11. What kind of steering wheel is that ? and about how much did it cost?
  12. Steering wheel is Grant Collectors edition mahogany 1175 $244 at Summit Racing
    Billet horn button with FORD center: 5875 about $24
    Billet installation kit: 5249-1 about $50.

    I don't remember paying that much but I do like the look and feel.
    I bought the wheel and then tried to mix the stain for the instrument panel to match. All of the interior wood grain details are walnut veneer.
  13. The car looks great, but I agree with you on the hood. Perhaps a 67 Shelby style hood will look better?

    The widened rear quarters look nice. That is, you can hardly see it, yet it looks different.

  14. I thought about the 67 Shelby hood but I'll probably put one on my 67 coupe so I want something different for the fastback. Originally I selected the hood to clear the Webers but the engine is low enough that I could probably use a stock hood.

    Thanks, that's exactly what I was hoping for.
    I sometimes forget about the widened quarter panels until I look at my 65 coupe. It's a very subtle change but good for 1.5" more room.