1966 Coupe Slow Build

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
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I know you just got finished with the housing...but here is something to consider: What I am going to do is use an 8.8 housing from whatever I can find the cheapest and cut off both housing ends and weld on 9" housing ends like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-7700

You may ask why....there are a couple advantages to this approach:

1. Shortening an explorer axle is 1 weld....but adding 9" ends is only 2 welds, so not much more difficult(though an alignment bar should be used)
2. This gets rid of having to retain the axles with c-clips...you use 9" axles from a Granada or a Ranchero(depending on the spline of your carrier) or even custom axles since they don't really cost that much. Since you use 9" axles, you also use 9" bearings and retaining plates without leaky c-clip eliminators.
3. Bolt on brake kits for classic mustangs bolt on. The 8.8" of course has plenty of brake options, but what you will never find using an 8.8" end is a bolt on rear brake kit designed to complement a bolt on front disc brake kit. IE, if you run SoT front brakes, you won't find a perfectly matched kit for the rear...but if you have 9" ends instead you can run the full kit that has many hours of testing behind it.

P.S. While you are there...I would consider bracing the 8.8 rear and fully welding the axle tubes as well...in theory if you do that the rear end can take 1000+HP according to the internet:
TZM-8.8-FB_3__33518.1621454683.jpg


Easy enough to do while its out, this one is double braced, but a single brace would probably do the trick fine.
 
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AlmostCoffee

Member
Feb 4, 2020
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I know you just got finished with the housing...but here is something to consider: What I am going to do is use an 8.8 housing from whatever I can find the cheapest and cut off both housing ends and weld on 9" housing ends like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-7700

You may ask why....there are a couple advantages to this approach:

1. Shortening an explorer axle is 1 weld....but adding 9" ends is only 2 welds, so not much more difficult(though an alignment bar should be used)
2. This gets rid of having to retain the axles with c-clips...you use 9" axles from a Granada or a Ranchero(depending on the spline of your carrier) or even custom axles since they don't really cost that much. Since you use 9" axles, you also use 9" bearings and retaining plates without leaky c-clip eliminators.
3. Bolt on brake kits for classic mustangs bolt on. The 8.8" of course has plenty of brake options, but what you will never find using an 8.8" end is a bolt on rear brake kit designed to complement a bolt on front disc brake kit. IE, if you run SoT front brakes, you won't find a perfectly matched kit for the rear...but if you have 9" ends instead you can run the full kit that has many hours of testing behind it.

P.S. While you are there...I would consider bracing the 8.8 rear and fully welding the axle tubes as well...in theory if you do that the rear end can take 1000+HP according to the internet:
TZM-8.8-FB_3__33518.1621454683.jpg


Easy enough to do while its out, this one is double braced, but a single brace would probably do the trick fine.
I had considered welding the tubes up, maybe I will. I talked to a local guy and he basically told me not to worry about c clips or spinning tubes unless I’m running slicks and 600 hp so I didn’t bother. I always could weld it up I guess, wonder if I need to use silicone bronze or something as the housings cast?
 

wicked93gs

15 Year Member
Sep 30, 2006
1,187
221
93
I had considered welding the tubes up, maybe I will. I talked to a local guy and he basically told me not to worry about c clips or spinning tubes unless I’m running slicks and 600 hp so I didn’t bother. I always could weld it up I guess, wonder if I need to use silicone bronze or something as the housings cast?

I think most people who weld cast use a nickel rod...not sure if that applies to welding cast iron and mild steel together though. Welding the tubes wouldn't be a huge concern of mine anyway....or rather I would prioritize c-clip eliminators(or in my case 9" axles and retaining plates) over welding the tubes. All it takes is breaking an axle with c-clips for your wheel to go flying away, contrary to popular belief axles can break under non-performance driving situations too(though it is rare so it truly isn't a must-do). Truthfully though, for a street axle you are all set to go.
 
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AlmostCoffee

Member
Feb 4, 2020
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Small update: I managed to find a 347 in boxes to build for the car while i'm stuck up north working. I got it for a great deal and it should give me something to do for now.
stroker.jpg


Pretty standard kit. Unbalanced Scat 9000 crank, Eagle forged I beam rods with ARP fasteners, Icon forged flat tops w/ 4.8cc reliefs. Hastings rings, king bearings.

heads.jpg


The engine came with these; I have heard they are a reasonable budget head for us Canadians but I am thinking I will sell them and grab a set of AFR 185's just for peace of mind. I want to get the decks machined on the block before final assembly which might make my static compression very close to 11:1 with the 58cc heads and flat tops, so I might have to grab the 72cc's and have them bucked down or grab the 195's in a 60cc to avoid pinging. The engine came with a comp XE274H but i'll probably sell it and go with a custom cam.. I'm shooting for a .040" quench or close to it overall, so 10.9:1 static with the right overlap on the cam might be fine on 91. We'll see. anyway;
engine.jpg

Perks of being a bachelor: you can do your clean work inside haha.
piston.jpg

Pistons all mic'd out to 4.026x. Some slight discrepancies in the ten thousandths range but honestly at that level of accuracy i'm sure that could be mic operator related. the wrist pins all mic out to .927 almost on the nose. Overall pretty happy with the quality of pistons. I plasti gauged the mains but chances are i'll get the block line honed when it goes to get decked and frost plugs/ cam brgs installed. Should I paint before or after?... I dunno. Anyway, that's where i'm at. The engine came with a HV mellings oil pump and high vol water pump... I've never been a high volume believer but I think i'll give them a shot since I have them. I'll likely run a bigger oil pan because I need to buy one regardless and things like windage trays get me all excited.
 

AlmostCoffee

Member
Feb 4, 2020
54
22
18
FE5F7F13-9072-466A-B161-93150D67F1DB.jpeg

Had a mini heart attack when I consistently was reading about .003 on each piston to bore clearance… friendly reminder to check your tools from time to time haha. My inside mic is reading about a half thou smaller than actual measurement, which puts me right at the right side of the manufacturers spec of .0035-.0045 fit. Which I don’t love (I’d rather be loose) but for a street engine is likely fine