1967 fastback drip rail moldings

wils1514

New Member
Sep 20, 2011
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Just started putting my roof rail trim on. What a pita! Anyways, the passenger side fits horribly! I am using the original weatherstrip trim and a reproduction sash and drip rail trim. All the sheet metal where the trim attaches to is original.
The problem is there is a huge gap between the trim piece that gets riveted to the body and the trim that holds the weatherstrip on the rear by the sail panel. You can see the rivets that hold the sash on. I’m using all the original screw and rivet holes. It did fit this way before I took it apart.
there is about a 1/4” difference in width of the roof rail sheetmetal between the passenger side and driver side.
Has anyone seen this before?Is it possible it could have been this bad from the factory? I’ve tried pulling the trim out to cover the rivets but it’s just too stiff and then it will also interfere with the window. The window fits good to the trim where it is currently installed.
 

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Looks like you may have a couple of problems . The channel stainless for the rubber should be up closer to left ,the ridge on the flat piece of stainless . It also looks like the stainless trim is not seated on the drip rail ,it should overlap the edge of the flat piece of stainless,i am thinking the flat stainless is to far out towards the drip rail trim . Did you notice other pop rivet holes in the body under the flat molding ?
 
Thank you for your responses.
I just measured the drip rail edge (the part of the body that the drip rail molding snaps on to). The passenger side is out about 3/16 more than the driver side at the rear. Not sure how I go about fixing it since I'm not going to paint the vehicle for about another 5 years. Think I would need to drill out the spot welds and pull it towards the interior. I think the seam sealer would crack the paint and make a mess.
I've ordered a new drip rail molding to fixed that gap. The current one is kind of tweaked.
 
Horse sence,
Do you know what it would take to shift the bottom portion of drip rail over? It looks like there are spot welds on the outer edge? The rest of the moldings line up good, it’s basically the last 12” in the rear that are out too far. I was thinking I could then use some 3m structural body panel adhesive I have to secure the portion I shift over. It seems like that’s my only option or put up with it until I do a complete repaint.
 

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You could drill the spot welds in the front ,dont drill the ones in the front of the quarter to drip rail ,those only attach to the quarter and it will all push in together . There may be a reason it is out that far though ,there is a bracket under it that may not allow it to push in . It is worth a try though at the worst you will just be filling the spot welds back in
 
When you say the front of the quarter to drip rail which ones do you mean?
I was thinking I would have to drill out all of these to shift it closer to the inside seam.
I can't believe it would be this bad from the factory. According to their print in the osbourne manual this is a "master control surface" ha
 

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Wouldn't I want to drill those out as well so I can just move the drip rail channel piece in that the molding snaps on to? I've never dealt with the drip rail sheet metal except for at the front a pillar and from what I've seen in the osbourne manual so maybe I'm looking at it wrong.