1967 Mustang value

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by raidmagic, Dec 11, 2006.

  1. Hey guys I have a friend looking to buy a 67 Mustang coupe. It was a 6 cyl. car that had a 77 truck 302 swapped into it with an overdrive trans. It is clean as a pin all round 77,000 miles on the car original and a few thousand on the motor rebuild. New paint, factory redo on the interior (as in it's new but kept to look original). The owner is asking $10,000 for the car and we just wanted to check the value of these and see if the price was fair. Thanks.
  2. You said original 6 cylinder with a 302 swap; Has the suspension and rear end been upgrade to V8 specs to handle the 302 power? To check this, see if there are 4 lugs or 5 lugs at the rear and front wheels. 4 lug indicates not upgraded, 5 lug indicates it HAS been upgraded.
  3. yea I already told him to check on whether it was converted or not
  4. It always comes down to the level of rust for me. If it is TRULY rust free it is probably worth it, slight rust the price is probably a little high (depending on what type of rust and where it is), if it has any structural rust (firewall/roof/frame-rails) it is worth a fourth of that price.

    Just my $0.03 (adjusted for inflation)
  5. Edbert, check you PM.
  6. He is working on getting pics. There is no rust in the car that is visible, like I said it has been redone. I have never seen it I am just going by what Henry (the guy that wants to buy it) has said about it and he is pretty anal for looking for that stuff. What are the ramifications if they put a V-8 in there and left the 6 cyl. suspension? Is that a rolling death trap?
    Thanks again for all your help guys.
  7. I might consider $7000-8000 for a car with a full V8 driveline swap, ZERO rust(like my car :D), straight body, good paint, and a clean interior. In general, a car that needs little. I wouldn't pay $10k or more for a non-fastback unless it was a clean convertible and even then, I wouldn't buy a 'vert because I don't like them. I got my notch with the driveline in boxes for $1900, BTW. I think I got the deal becuase it cost $450 to sort out the registration. :mad:
  8. I think most folks here will lowball the prices a bit over the general public. Heck I bought an S-code fastback with nearly every option (including blackout panel, working A/C, and convenience pack) for $700 back in 1983, and got a genuine GTA coupe for $200 around the same time. Those of us who hang out here seem able to find better deals than the unwashed masses who go to the classifieds or used car lots. Also worth mentioning...prices vary a great deal depending on geography too. CA/FL/TX/NM/AZ/OK all tend to be a little lower priced than cooler climate states or gulf-coast cars (that may have a lot to do with rust in both of those regions and not being able to drive it part of the year up north. Skinny tires, V8, RWD, solid axle...then ice? <shudder>

    That said a plain-jane coupe with few options, a V8 drivetrain (done right of course), with a quality and complete restoration should be around $10K, even though most of "us" would not pay that.

    ...and WTF is wrong with convertibles anyhow?

    Edit to add...it is easier to cover up rust with a fresh paint job than to fix it. My lookout alarm goes off hard when I see a car for sale with a new paint job.

  9. Most of us here have the benefit of not being afraid to get into a car that needs work. We also know problem areas to look for and can point them out to sellers to get the price down.

    Out west in the warmer, drier states there are still lots of rust free cars, so being rust free isn't as much of a selling point. However, a rotted-out car is much harder to sell. The fact that we have less slick weather also means that fewer cars are crashed from driving on ice and taken off the road/out of the used market.

    Nothing wrong with convertibles, just not my bag.;) Chicks think they're cute, though.