1968 289 H2O

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by gregski, Mar 31, 2011.

  1. Show Us Your Bits !!!

    Man the Crankshaft looks fantastic! And I am not pulling it, never done it, it's way out of my league. Yes I could remove it but I don't even wanna think about putting in new bearings, plus it would need machining and the whole 9 yards.

    The Oil Pump looks like someone used it to stir a coffee milk shake with it! LOL I will try and clean it up the best I can, and I may need some serious hand holding if and when I decide to replace it, as I have never replaced an oil pump before.

    Check out the timing chain, it looks great. I hope I don't have to mess with it either, because again, I never replaced a timing chain before.




    I can't believe how clear these pictures came out, my camera is ***** in the dark and close up conditions.
  2. If the pistons are frozen you might as well replace the crank bearings because you are going to need to hone the cylinders and the crank has to come out for that anyways.....
  3. 1.) You'd have to separate the engine from the transmission to pull the crank anyway. Two bolts on the crossmember, six on the bellhousing, six on the flexplate, two for each of the fie main caps, and two for each of the eight conrods.....that's twice as many as the bloody oil pan. :rlaugh:

    2.) It's actually only a two-bolt job. :rlaugh:

    3.) That's a one-bolt job if the timing cover is already off. :lol:
  4. I know I will get struck by lightning by disagreeing with Rusty, but no it don't, wait till you see how I plan to do it.
  5. LOL, shoot it looks like somebody's been actually reading my posts and is giving me a taste of my own medicine, hee hee. In that case I may actually have the skills and ability to replace the oil pump, imagine that.

    As far as #3 the cover bolts count, as does the crank shaft pulley - you testin' me or somethin'? lol
  6. How Ironic

    So I cleaned up the sludge in the oil pan before I called it quits for the day. The oil pan looked pretty good aside from a bit of rust around the drain plug area about the size of a credit card. Question is when I clean it up with a wire wheel do I coat it with something or leave it raw? If I coat it what do you suggest I use fellas?

    Don't you think it's a bit ironic that the inside of my oil pan rusted, yet it had oil in it? Just goes to show you the power of water, and what it can do to your engine.



  7. Greg, when you hone the cylinders, the hone oil will drip down onto the crank and likely get into the bearings. The oil will contain metal filings which will lodge themselves in between the crank caps, bearings and crank. These will act as tiny files, destroying the crank friction surface and bearings.

    I guess you could mask the entire cylinder off and tape a bag at the opening at the bottom but is it worth the risk ?

    Also you need to replace that rear main seal ! Might want to have everything machined for a 1 piece rear main.... maybe not but either way you should replace that seal.
  8. Hey All,
    Gregski Said:

    "And something tells me if I removed only one head and modified the intake in some crazy fashion I could get a V8 to run on just 4 cylinders"

    I am currently playing with our "new to us" tow behind, industrial air compressor made by a company called "Grimmer-Schmidt" that is powered by a 351 Cleveland, sort of. The engine has a modified intake, "in some crazy fashion" and a different head on the right side and "DOES" use the left bank of 4 cylinders as the engine and the right bank of 4 cylinders as the compressor.:jaw: It's a pretty cool setup and provides air volume for days! This thing is a BEAST!

    In reference to mustangmutt's oil pan experience, when I was 17, I bought a 63 Mercury Comet, 2 dr, 144 or 170 CI 6-banger, 3 on the tree for $25. I was told the engine was shot, but the car had all new brakes, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc, 5 new matching tires and 2 snow tires. I had a buddy with me to help flat tow it the 3 1/2 miles to my shop area. Well, just for giggles, I put a battery in the car and it fired right up, a little clattery but not bad, so I decided to just drive it. Just as I was ready to pull into my shop driveway, my buddy started blowing his horn and a look in my mirror showed a totally freaked out look on his face and drastic amounts of smoke was pouring out from under the car accompanied by a loud bang as the engine seized SOLID. I jumped out of the car and looked under the front end to see NO OIL PAN and a brightly glowing crankshaft and connecting rod assembly, now welded together!:eek: I proceeded to swap the engine with the 35,000 mile 170 that I had yanked from my 63 Falcon Convertible (to put in a V8, of course) and happily drove that Comet as my "Winter Rat" for years until the body crumbled into a rusty pile, and then sold the engine/trans for $150.
    Just Sharing,
  9. Greg, Think about what you have done so far, torn down heads.... heck.... you tore apart 3/4 of your entire car to prime it (good gob by the way, great thread), please do not be afraid of an oil pump or pushing pistons out of a cylinder and dropping a crank..... especially on such a prime specimen of a engine that you have! I employ you to pull the engine with your newly painted BLUE engine hoist and tear that thing apart! Heck.... this will make your life easier when it comes to time to prep the engine compartment (you are going to do that... right?... heck... if you keep up with these threads, your going to have a nice car in a years time or so, simply by doing all the extra work that people on the forum suggest that you would have skipped!). I'm just sayen that these old cars require a little common sense, and you can usually get close to figuring stuff out with some thought and you sir, .... have common sense. Happy wrenching.
  10. Wait, that engine is getting rebuilt? I thought this teardown was just an educational exercise since there is a better spare engine involved. :shrug:

    I seriously doubt that a hone would come anywhere near cleaning up those cylinders anyway. There may not even be enough room to bore out the pitting.
  11. The Pistons Are Unionized

    Aside from not having anyone to catch the piston as I gently tapped it out from underneath I was pretty proud of the job. Although we have been here before. The first piston always comes out nice and easy, and looks very clean.

    It's like your first kid... short labor, then nice and quiet, just eats and sleeps. You sleep well at night dreaming of having another perfect baby. Fast forward 2 years and Deuce arrives. This kid started kicking and screaming in the fallopian tube and never stopped. She won't eat and poops like a grown up. Ear infections, baby rash, colic, you name it she's got it.

    Well you see just like your kids the pistons are Unionized as well, that's why they're not all at Top Dead Center all at once, they let the good ones out first. But I tell you what, I am not going to get all excited, I remember what happened with the valves a few posts up, LOL.




  12. Let's Review

    Refer to Goal #1 in the initial post.


    1. Put the engine back to stock salvaging as many components as possible and get it running as a daily driver.
  13. I must have misread "engine" as "car."

    On a side note, those pistons look like forgings.
  14. Are "forgings" a good thing?
  15. They'll take more hard use if that's on the menu. They'll also tend to be a little noisier when cold and contribute slightly more to oil consumption than cast slugs.

    For what you're doing, it doesn't really matter one way or the other.
  16. oh, you meant forged pistons, I was just being silly
  17. I still don't get it(see avatar), but carry on anyway.
  18. Those pistons also appear to be popups with full floating pins, if the resolution on my computer is that good. #6 looks promising, the rest remain to reveal their hidden secrets. Like I said earlier, that engine looks like it was gone through shortly before they took the car fishing.
  19. Horseballz, thats a funny story. I have heard stories of flatheads running for hours with no oil. I watched a 4.6L modular V8 seize in about 45 seconds.
  20. Gene, Gene, Gene I was going to give you shiet until I re read it, and noted the "when I was 17" otherwise I was thinking don't you check the oil using the dip stick when ever you buy a car?