1968 Coupe Project

rustaddict

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Aug 23, 2014
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2014-05-16 15.37.53.jpg
2014-05-16 15.38.19.jpg
2014-05-29 18.26.50.jpg
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My stepson and I drug this mustang out of a barn. These are pics from the day we brought it home. The light green paint is original and it still had the warranty plate inside the glove box. We got it from the son of the lady who bought it new. Unfortunately, someone attempted to change the front frame rail but gave up after they cut the right side off. Then they lost the right side so what you see is all I have. I do have the fenders,grill, hood,valance pan, front bumper, and a new inner and outer framerail that was ordered by the previous owner.
 
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rustaddict

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Would I be better off to buy a new shock tower and panels and use the new framerail I got from the previous owner or order a new one piece asembly for that side?
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
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Since it looks like you need the tower and panels i would just go with the already assembled rail that has every thing already welded and save your self some trouble . I would also get the radiator support with the cross member already welded on .
First thing you will need to do is find a good solid platform to level the car on /concrete slab ,or at least a good packed drive way . Level it side to side and front to back . You will want to use jack stands under the rear torque box area beside the front of the rear leafs ,and it would be best to use jack stands under the rockers in the front so they do not interfere with the new rail going back in place . When you get ready for measurements i can get them for you . Jim
 

rustaddict

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I agree that the one piece inner support and the radiator support with the crossmember already installed looks like the way to go. Thanks for the instructions on where to support the body and I can definitely use those measurements. Does the new framerail I already have have any resale value? I am going to accumulate the assembled rail, radiator support, and the missing suspension pieces before I get started Should I go ahead and get an export brace and a Monte Carlo bar also?. I'm missing a spindle. What spindles interchange with the 6 cylinder set up I have now? Also, this car came with an automatic and we want a T-5,probably with a cable operated clutch. Do I have to buy a complete pedal assembly out of a MT equipped 67-68 Mustang or can I buy a cable kit with the pedal and use the existing dash bracket or brake pedal?
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
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Yes get a Monte Carlo bar and an export brace they will help in fitting the frame rail.
V 8 spindles from 67 -69 will bolt right in .
You will need a manual pedal assembly for 67-68 ,the large bracket is the same but the pedals are different .
You may be able to sell your other rail ,it depends on finding someone that needs it .
 

7991LXnSHO

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I saw the first two pictures and was not sure there really was a car under there. Seeing your progress and final product will be fun.
 

RacerJames

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I have a complete "big" brake setup from a '67 GTA. spindles, drums, brakes, and upper and lower control arms.
All that stuff weighs a bit so shipping might be expensive depending on where you are.

Otherwise, you should consider the Granada disc brake conversion.
 

rustaddict

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Aug 23, 2014
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Seeing it come together will be fun. The catch will be finding time to work on it. I did buy a pair of valve covers for it over the weekend. It's too early for valve covers, but the deal was too good to pass up. What is involved in doing a Granada brake conversion? All the old salvage yards in my part of the country are gone. I had planned on buying a brake kit from mgchevyparts on ebay when the time comes but I am open to all suggestions.
 

120mm

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I used the CSRP K-B disc brake conversion. It's not that expensive (mine cost $524), installs easily and is compatible with a stock Ford unit from that era.

I am almost finished converting my '67 six cylinder, and if I had to do it again, I'd buy a complete running Ford Explorer and use the motor and rear axle from that. I'd also find a used T-5 and rebuild it. In fact, once I'm done with my convertible, my plan is to do that very thing to a '67-'68 coupe.
 

120mm

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You don't have to buy "V-8" spindles for a 1968. The spindles for the I-6 and the V-8 were exactly the same from 1967 until 1973.
 
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rustaddict

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Small update- Finally got the title straightened out and in my name. I didn't feel comfortable buying body parts until the car was legally mine.
 

rustaddict

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horse sence- You mentioned that you could help me with some measurements when I was ready for them. Are they the same measurements from the 1968 Ford Shop Manual?
 

rustaddict

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One other question. When new, these bodies were left in red oxide underneath and the engine bay was done in semi gloss black, right?