After all that work, please SEAL it underneath. If you have to have the primer look, at least use primer that will not let the water through. There are "primers" that are really flat paint for the rat rod look that will help preserve your work.
1968 Coupe Project
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It'll be a driver, so I'm not 100% sure what I will do under there yet. I have access to a rotisserie so I feel like I'd be crazy not to flip it over and really clean up the bottom even if it will be a driver. I hope to be ordering the inner fender/shock tower assembly and radiator support soon.
Horse Sence- Where can I go to get a good grade Monte Carlo bar and export brace?
Horse Sence- Where can I go to get a good grade Monte Carlo bar and export brace?
horse sence
15 Year Member
I think either Mustangs Unlimited or National Parts Depot has the good ,i think it is listed as best bar.
horse sence
15 Year Member
POR15 or an equivalent product would be very helpful for preserving the bottom side of something that will get road time. You should check for requirements, but I have seen it painted over to get that original look.
I realize this isn't earth shattering news, but I finally managed to get into the trunk yesterday. I had to use a 7/16 wrench crammed into a 3 foot long piece of small pvc pipe to undo the latch bolts from the back seat. Discovered treasures including vice grips and screwdrivers, the factory jack and lug wrench,spare tire and attaching hardware. no rust holes found in trunk.
Over the past few days I got the car supported, leveled up, and made myself a tram gauge to accurately take measurements on the parts I need to install. I think I may replace the torque box too. I ordered a copy of the body assembly manual, the weld & sealant manual, and the 302 Boss chassis manual. What I have is far from a 302 Boss, but for $6, I thought I'd see what they had to say. I think I'd like to use a later model 302 with the roller cam, but I think I'd like a manual fuel pump. Will that eccentric thing that bolts to the cam on an earlier motor also bolt to the roller cam on a later motor ? Also, I notice my car has the puny 6 cyl rearend. Is there an 8.8 out there that will bolt in place of it ?
You should be able to bolt the eccentric on without any problems. They bolt on to the cam in front of the timing gear and use the same bolt. Unless there are different thicknesses of timing gears, the only issue you *might* run into would be clearance under the timing cover, but you would have to have one with the fuel pump mounting hole open which would dictate the use of the eccentric anyhow, so I don't think you'll have an issue there. As far as an 8.8 that actually bolts in, I don't think you will have any luck in that respect. Everything that I've found regarding an 8.8 swap require modifications to the axle housing.
RacerJames
Active Member
The 8.8 won't bolt in. If the "puny" axle is a dropout type, it's probably an 8", and that axle will work with anything up to 400 horses without trouble. you could replace the 4 lugs with 5 lug axles and drums and be done. If, however it is a spicer style with the removeable rear cover, you are right, they are weak, and should be swapped if going with a V-8.
Your best option is to find a V-8 8" or 9" axle that fits your springs. there are still used ones around. you'll probably pay between 200 and 500 bucks for one. A 9" is ALWAYS worth the investment.
Your best option is to find a V-8 8" or 9" axle that fits your springs. there are still used ones around. you'll probably pay between 200 and 500 bucks for one. A 9" is ALWAYS worth the investment.
RacerJames
Active Member
Go here: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/rearend-swap-info-faq.656567/
A quote from the above thread:
"The Explorer 8.8s are popular for three reasons; leaf perches, disc brakes, and (usually) an LSD. The negative for using them is the off-center diff. Mustang 8.8s often have the LSD and disc brakes with a centered diff, but they did not use leafs which means even more cutting/welding.
Swapping either into a early Stang is not that hard and there have been many threads about that swap in the past."
A quote from the above thread:
"The Explorer 8.8s are popular for three reasons; leaf perches, disc brakes, and (usually) an LSD. The negative for using them is the off-center diff. Mustang 8.8s often have the LSD and disc brakes with a centered diff, but they did not use leafs which means even more cutting/welding.
Swapping either into a early Stang is not that hard and there have been many threads about that swap in the past."
I'm not 100%, but I think the rears would be ok. The front springs change because of the added weight of a V8 vs an I6, but the car's rear weight doesn't really change. I *don't think* there are any differences in springs for the rears in 6 or 8 cylinder cars. If they are saggy or showing signs of age, by all means replace them, you will be happier with new springs vs old saggy ones. If there are no problems with them, I say keep them and spend your hard earned money elsewhere for now. Just my 2 cents....
RacerJames
Active Member
I believe Lilcbra is right. In shopping for rear springs for my '67 I haven't ever been asked if it's a 6 or 8 cyl car.
Why do differentials have LSD? Does it need to hallucinate? 
Ok, so does LSD really stand for in this context?
Ok, so does LSD really stand for in this context?
Are you posi about that?
I forgot Ford-speak for a few minutes.Yes, all rear wheel drive cars should have (but did not always) come out of the factory with a limited slip differential.
I forgot Ford-speak for a few minutes.Yes, all rear wheel drive cars should have (but did not always) come out of the factory with a limited slip differential.
horse sence
15 Year Member
A limited slip was kind or rare in the old cars ,not like they are today ,almost everything has some type of posi trac now days .
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