1968 Coupe Project

rustaddict

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Aug 23, 2014
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What I'm trying to ask is, notice the location of the bolt holes for the brace and shock bracket in the shock tower. There is a metal ring spot welded underneath the top of the shock tower that has those holes drilled in it. It looks like they welded it in a little crooked because the holes don't line up with the slots in the shock tower or with the upper shock brackets or firewall support bar.
 
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rustaddict

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Aug 23, 2014
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I shot a few sheet metal screws in the inner fender and trial fitted the sheet metal to see how well it lined up. I was surprised at how well it went together and aligned. I'm either good or lucky. I'll take either one. Although my dirt floor is pretty level, I have been nervous about doing frame work on a dirt floor and I have measured, measured, and measured some more. Best I can tell, I have the shock tower/frame rail where it needs to be. I plan on welding it in next week if the weather permits. I am going to need some new hood hinges. Are the repops any good or do I need to search for good used replacements ?
 
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horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
What I'm trying to ask is, notice the location of the bolt holes for the brace and shock bracket in the shock tower. There is a metal ring spot welded underneath the top of the shock tower that has those holes drilled in it. It looks like they welded it in a little crooked because the holes don't line up with the slots in the shock tower or with the upper shock brackets or firewall support bar.
The holes in the bottom spot welded bracket do nothing ,the slotted hole in the top is what you will be using .the bolt is a carriage type bolt with a square shank that will slide in the slot. The round head part of the bolt is under the slot and that is what keeps the bolt in place .
 

rustaddict

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Thank you ! That has made my day. I know you are probably thinking that should be obvious but I never knew. Had I took the driver side apart I would have seen that but I didn't want to disturb it at this time.
 
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rustaddict

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This weekend I found a little time to mess with the coupe. The front end is all welded together. That part turned out nice. I have moved on to fitting the new floor pan for the passenger side. After cleaning all the crap out of the interior, it appears that it is going to get a new driver's side floor pan too.
 

horse sence

That $5 hooker turn out to be a guy
Mod Dude
Nov 29, 1999
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If you are going to do both floor pans i would do a complete floor .It is actually easier to do a full floor because you will not have those long welds ,and it looks much better when finished .
 

rustaddict

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I thought about that. The main thing keeping me from ordering a new one piece floor is that I already have new halves and they didn't cost me anything.
 

rustaddict

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Today I got the ol' Rustang bolted up to the rotisserie and got the rear end removed. I had hoped to at least get to spin it over and inspect the rest of the floor real good before leaving for work this afternoon but I ran out of time. So, until tomorrow I remain in suspense.
 

rustaddict

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I got a good peek at the bottom today. I am pleased with the condition it is in, all things considered. This car spent it's life running around dirt roads and slept outside all it's life, so it could have been much worse.
floor1.jpg
floor2.jpg
floor3.jpg
 
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rustaddict

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My plan is to repair the driver's side floor,finish some welding up front, repair some small rusty places in the trunk, sandblast and epoxy prime the bottom, seam seal it, and then hit it with some red oxide tinted spray in bedliner. I'll have to replace the rear trunk brace but that ain't happening until I take it off the rotisserie. I would have changed it beforehand, but I didn't realize how bad it was until I jacked the car up and rolled it on it's side.
 

rustaddict

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There's a bracket that welds to the passenger floor pan that helpd hold the E-brake cable. When I got the car, that was loose and hanging due to floor pan rust. Does anybody have measurements of where it attaches to the floor ?
 

rustaddict

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Driver's side floor is in. I borrowed the rotisserie from a friend of mine that called me up about a week ago and informed he he'd sold it. He and the seller agreed to let me finish this floor job but they are anxious to do the deal, so I have been working double time to get the bottom done. I got the engine bay and the underside blasted and got a coat of epoxy on it before leaving for work this evening. 'Tomorrow I plan to spray the bottom with SEM spray on bedliner. I hope it turns out well.
 

rustaddict

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Here's a not so good pic of black epoxy primer in engine bay. I'd think about letting that be the final finish but I used the last of what I had and it is thin in a few spots.
 

rustaddict

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I know right ? I can't complain. I've had the thing for 3 years. The guy that owns it has moved twice in that time and was happy to have it in a secure place. I originally borrowed it to put my '55 on and when I was done with that I figured I might as well use it on the Mustang also since I had it.