1969 Coupe - From A To Z

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#1
I have a 1969 Coupe, 302V8. I was gifted the car by my Brother-in-Law prior to his passing back in 2010. It fired up nicely, and had a new C-4 transmission installed and a new gas tank in 2009. Electrical working, New tires & Brakes. Front end seems to need some work. In all, a working machine. It has rust and the body needs work, paint, interior work, etc...

It has basically been garaged now for the past 8 years and was last started up about 4 years ago. Now I am prepared to spend some time with it. First thing obviously is to get it running again and I am prepared to do that, as that will get it back to where it was 8 years ago when I took possession.

My plan is to get it as mechanically sound as possible before I even think about the body, then the inside. A weekend driver and a nice classic musclecar is what I would like to end up with.

I'm just looking for advice on basically anything that would help me plan properly and move forward with this.

This was the 1st pic I took in 2010 and it's unchanged.


IMG_1329.JPG
 
  • Sponsors (?)

rbohm

SN Certified Technician
Apr 12, 2002
6,392
468
204
59
tucson,az
#2
ok, the first thing you want to do is assess the condition of each sub system, start with the engine. run a compression check, read the plugs, see what kind of spark you are getting at the plugs, etc.

do each sub system in turn making sure that everything is working properly.

once you have assessed the mechanical condition of the car, and determined what systems need work, then set a repair schedule in this order;

1: safety systems, AKA brakes and steering.

2: suspension

3: engine and drive train

4: electrical

5: bodywork and paint

i like this basic order because the first two categories can be dealt with over a long weekend, or during the week a few hours at a time. this will keep the car on the road as often as possible.

the engine and drive train should be done here, though they take much longer to deal with depending on what needes to be done. if general maintenance then they can be done over a weekend as well.

electrical fourth, but with reservations. of course any problems should be dealt with asap, but electrical problems can be difficult to deal with. so place them where ever you need them.

body and paint can be done over time, and for the most part just need labor, like sanding, pounding out dents, laying on body filler and sanding that off, etc. and unless you have really bad rust issues, who cares if the body looks like crap for awhile?
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#3
Great advice - I'm all for safety first - thanks for the reply!
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#4
I'm ready to fire this up finally - I've been reading about how I should check or replace the fluids, pull the plugs, add some Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylnder, and then turn it by hand before I put power it up for real.

Okay, how do I do 'turn it by hand' ? It's a 302V8.
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#6
Thanks - not being a 'car guy' by any means, I am learning.

Next question - does anyone see anything odd or weird about my engine? Not sure exactly what I have here that was after market or added on.
IMG_0521.jpg
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#7
Took all the plugs out and it cranked by hand like a charm - easy.

Broke one of the plugs though - I guess I need a whole set now? What is the recommended gap?
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#8
I keep answering my own questions - lol - I just changed out all the plugs as it was going to need it anyway. It fired up just fine - as long as I hand added some gas to the carb- but I'm not getting fuel just yet
IMG_0535.JPG
- I assume this is the culprt? How can I service/troubleshoot it? Electrical is working fine - I can hear it humming when I turn the ignition on,
 

Attachments

WORTH

15 Year Member
Nov 18, 2002
2,017
17
88
65
Cape Cod, Ma.
68.69.48.22
#9
take the line off that goes to the carb and see if it pumps fuel, if it dose the issue is in the carb,(stuck float), if it doesn't pull the tank line and drop a line in a coffee can of gas and see if it pumps, if it does then you have a clog in the filter, the strainer in the tank, or maybe an issue with the pickup tube in the tank.
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#10
Thanks - I will do that next. I can hear the pump spinning to build pressure - so it's most likely down to the remedies you prescribed.
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#11
No fuel going to carburetor so I removed line from carb to pump, no fuel dripping from outlet of pump. Pulled line from inlet of pump, no fuel there either.

Can I safely blow air from the line to the tank to see if there is a blockage? Pump not making any noise now so I'm thinking bad pump for sure. Nice 20 gal tank is new (when I got it).
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#12
Sorry for all the questions - can I buy one of those Delphi Fuel Pumps from AutoZone and just replace the bad one - Looks like a simple 12v/ground hookup, fuel in/out connections and will fit on my mounting plate.
 

WORTH

15 Year Member
Nov 18, 2002
2,017
17
88
65
Cape Cod, Ma.
68.69.48.22
#13
you CAN blow threw the line to the tank, if you buy a new pump make sure it is regulated, I think you will probably need 3 psi, if it isn't regulated they should sell inline regulators.
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#14
Making progress - installed a new Holley (RED) Fuel Pump and it's working perfectly and the gas is flowing - I double checked that! - so I got gas going to the intale of the Carb - but no luck running unless I prime it at the card and then it only fires until what little gas I poured in is expended.
Time for me to learn Edelbrock Carb troubleshooting. Any pointing to some basic info on this is surely appreciated.
 

WORTH

15 Year Member
Nov 18, 2002
2,017
17
88
65
Cape Cod, Ma.
68.69.48.22
#15
You can try tapping on the top oof the carb inline with where the fuel enters, right below that is the needle valve that allows fuel into the bowl. IF that doesn't work you'll have to gently remove the top of the carb so you don't hurt the gasket, and see if the needle valve is stuck. Here's a diagram of whats inside.
 

Attachments

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#16
Thanks - I found a local guy who is a high performance carb specialist in case I need extra help!

I'm trying to figure our what the former owners wanted to do with this car! It's pretty bland on the outside but I'm beginning to see that motor is anything but a grandpa's car...
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#17
I cleaned out the whole carb and got it to fire up but only for about 10 seconds.

The Edelbrock 1604 suggests no more than 6.5 PSI (optimum is 5.5) but the Holley Red Fuel Pump is preset at 7 PSI. Would that cause a problem? It looks like the old Carter ran preset at 6 PSI. For $35 I'll add a regulator but not sure that even in the equation yet.
 

Roger T

New Member
Feb 28, 2018
15
0
1
68
#18
Since this last post above I have acquired a mentor who has proven invaluable - he has torn down and rebuilt dozens of these and is partnering with me on the restomod. meaning I'll do the tear down and he'll put it back right. In the past month we have accomplished the following: Torn down the engine to the basic block for cleaning and painting, gutted the interior and welded new floorboards on the driver side. Ordered and received new chrome alternator, new PS pump, chrome water pump, balancer and pulleys, all new ignition parts and wiring, starter, custom head covers, balancer cover, chrome oil pan, Aluminum Radiator, taillight panel, quarter panel, steering re-build kit...and more stuff I can't remember. I am really enjoying the process and my blood will forever be in this vehicle (literally!) If you've ever seen a 69 Mustang torn apart and sitting on jack stands, there's no need yet for me to post pics!
 

Similar threads