Build Thread 1978 Fairmont : And after all of that......

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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You’re right. I will return it back. The difference will be that I won’t paint the copper over wrinkle black..( it’ll be painted over red,instead).
I don’t know if I’ll wait, and run it this way for a bit, or I’ll take it back apart immediatel.

( Who wants to take a guess on this decision)
I’d have the engine somehow match the body color. Red doesn’t do that. My .02!
 
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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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I think it needs smooth copper and one of these to help it pop. Could even make a stencil or get a decal made that says Gila Monster in a creative script color combo right above the belt. I think it would bring out the industrial que more. People like seeing belts and gears. Good ol'ebay

Screenshot_20210110-011043_eBay.jpg
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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I think it needs smooth copper and one of these to help it pop. Could even make a stencil or get a decal made that says Gila Monster in a creative script color combo right above the belt. I think it would bring out the industrial que more. People like seeing belts and gears. Good ol'ebay

Screenshot_20210110-011043_eBay.jpg
That is an entire top end cover. If I wanted the gears exposed, I’d just leave the top cover off. I will paint them smooth copper.
Its been in the high 30’s - low 40’s here during the day for the last 4 days, with the last 3 pissing rain, offering me little incentive to do anything. While my garage gets its heat from the room next door, it’s not really warm enough to paint in. Paint runs like crazy. The wheel skirts will need to be redone, the valve covers will now need the same.
Ive been chasing freakin exhaust leaks. The ones under the car are fixed I think. I hope I solved the one that has been in the engine compartment since I put that 2j in there, I dealt with that one yesterday. There is a short “ S” shaped tube that routes from the exhaust header to the wastegate inlet that was tweaked just enough to not let it seal. before the exhaust gets too hot, you can actually wrap your hand around the Vband flange, and feel it leaking. I had to cut that one in half too and bolt both flanges in place. The resulting mis-match at the cut was welded back together..
( And boy what a disaster does that look like now)
If it works, and the leak is sealed, i think I’m done. All i’d have to do would be to bolt the rear tires back on, and go drive it.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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This morning I fixed the “wrong“ in the engine compartment. I wanted to get that done so I wouldnt be tempted to leave it.
20210114_153122.jpg

I’m sayin much better. After painting over the red, the copper kinda takes on a rose gold look, but that’s ok with me.
I wanted to take the car to the dealership to have the AC system evacuated so that I can change out the drier..I didn’t do that after the engine swap, and just attempted to charge the system after pulling a vacuum....no worky.


It also would give me the chance to test out the torque arm, make sure that the rear end was working, and see if the power felt any different..

It didn’t quite go as expected.

The rear end was making all kinds of racket. I expected it to when going around a corner, but it was noisy as fck, when making a right turn, and made very little noise if any turning left. When I took it to BMW for the evac I was expecting the worse,...( like something that I didn’t do right kinda worse)..and after getting the system evac’d, got just what I was expecting when trying to get it back home.
One block from the dealership, when trying to make an uphill left turn, the diff uncoupled, and just spun like there was a broken axle making a god awful racket.( think: the noise your trans makes if you try to change a gear w/o the clutch) I was dead in the middle of the intersection. Funny enough, the GM was coming down the hill, as I was trying to go up.
He gets out and pushes the thing back while I steer it.
Doing that re-engages the diff. I start it, I’m able to back up. I put it in low, it moves forward. But not knowing what’s wrong, I’m conflicted over whether or not I should try to drive it, or have it towed.
The GM says take it back to the shop, and have them put it on a lift, maybe somethings just coming loose.
So that’s what I do.
Nothings loose. ( from the outside)
20210114_145224.jpg

20210114_145214.jpg

I call Yukon, and they describe to me everything that this rear end is doing, and tell me that driving this car will now require a few things that were normal before, to having to be being dealt with differently now.

He says, ”You”ll now notice a lot of slop in the drivetrain between coast and drive, especially in high gear,..You’ll learn not to park it too close to anything anymore, because it’ll probably roll about a foot after you put it in park.
I do.
He says “Aside from the noise, you’ll have to deal with certain driving situations a little differently ( like an uphill left turn). You’ll need to power through that instead of coasting through it.
I will.
He says, “ The cogs need some break in time so that they‘ll lock, and unlock more reliably,....Dont baby it”
I won’t.

So, it appears that I’ve got what I asked for,...maybe a little more than I asked for. Time will tell I guess.

Its fast..How much faster is nothing i’m gonna guess at. But with the drag radials in 2nd, it’ll just tear those suckers up..something that the tiny wheezer wouldn’t .
Time will tell there too.
 
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rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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May 8, 2006
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This morning I fixed the “wrong“ in the engine compartment. I wanted to get that done so I wouldnt be tempted to leave it.
20210114_153122.jpg

I’m sayin much better. After painting over the red, the copper kinda takes on a rose gold look, but that’s ok with me.
I wanted to take the car to the dealership to have the AC system evacuated so that I can change out the drier..I didn’t do that after the engine swap, and just attempted to charge the system after pulling a vacuum....no worky.


It also would give me the chance to test out the torque arm, make sure that the rear end was working, and see if the power felt any different..

It didn’t quite go as expected.

The rear end was making all kinds of racket. I expected it to when going around a corner, but it was noisy as fck, when making a right turn, and made very little noise if any turning left. When I took it to BMW for the evac I was expecting the worse,...( like something that I didn’t do right kinda worse)..and after getting the system evac’d, got just what I was expecting when trying to get it back home.
One block from the dealership, when trying to make an uphill left turn, the diff uncoupled, and just spun like there was a broken axle making a god awful racket.( think: the noise your trans makes if you try to change a gear w/o the clutch) I was dead in the middle of the intersection. Funny enough, the GM was coming down the hill, as I was trying to go up.
He gets out and pushes the thing back while I steer it.
Doing that re-engages the diff. I start it, I’m able to back up. I put it in low, it moves forward. But not knowing what’s wrong, I’m conflicted over whether or not I should try to drive it, or have it towed.
The GM says take it back to the shop, and have them put it on a lift, maybe somethings just coming loose.
So that’s what I do.
Nothings loose. ( from the outside)
20210114_145224.jpg

20210114_145214.jpg

I call Yukon, and they describe to me everything that this rear end is doing, and tell me that driving this car will now require a few things that were normal before, to dealt with differently now.

He says, ”You”ll now notice a lot of slop in the drivetrain between coast and drive, especially in high gear,..You’ll learn not to park it too close to anything anymore, because it’ll probably roll about a foot after you put it in park.
I do.
He says “Aside from the noise, you’ll have to deal with certain driving situations a little differently ( like an uphill left turn). You’ll need to power through that instead of coasting through it.
I will.
He says, “ The cogs need some break in time so that they‘ll lock, and unlock more reliably,....Dont baby it”
I won’t.

So, it appears that I’ve got what I asked for,...maybe a little more than I asked for. Time will tell I guess.

Its fast. How much faster is nothing i’m gonna guess at. But with the drag radials in 2nd, it’ll just tear those suckers up. something that the tiny wheezer wouldn’t .
Time will tell there too.
I'm a huge fan of Yukon after they built their name with some 4WD folks I know. They provided me my first set of 5-lug fox axles about 20 years ago. Their customer service was great at the time, and regardless of the stock spline count, I beat the snot out of them without any problems. I've actually been looking at their lockers for the front end of my Cherokee lately, so I hit the 4WD guys and checked around regarding your issues. The Yukon rep is being straight. The centrifugal force used to operate your mechanical locker will often require it to be under load. Of note, a couple of the guys found that the noise and "drivability" issues became even worse when swapping from a manual to an automatic. This is likely due to the slight load left on as the clutch is disengaged prior to turning. Not one mentioned them completely "uncoupling," and I've yet to see the mechanical locker, or its lunchbox little brother behave that way completely. Noisy and slipping...yes, completely disengaged.....no. Anyway, most had to "get used" to driving it, and found it quieted a bit after the break in oil change. The good news is that they seem to get a lot of positive feedback when in the dirt and seem to get better with age. What was the recommended break in period from Yukon?
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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Should have gone with the Truetrac.

Kurt
This will be one time that you’ll get no pushback from me.
This was the wrong direction to go for me in the “ undriveable” direction.

Because it’s a giant pain in the ass to change out under the car, I’ll leave it until I can’t stand it any longer.

Then I’ll buy a truetrac.
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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I wonder what the differences are between their locker and an Eaton Detroit. My locker didn't or doesn't have any of those issues. I can imagine the frustration.

In any event, I just did a quick search for a comparison and found this article with this review.


Yukon Gear & Axle Grizzly Locker
The Yukon Gear & Axle (yukongear.com) Grizzly Locker is an automatic locking differential. It functions very much like a Detroit Locker, which it is essentially a copy of. However, it is generally considered to be weaker than the Detroit. We have seen some abusive tall-tire applications spit Grizzly Locker teeth.

Pros
No frills, simple automatic locking differential
100 percent traction to both tires
Cons
Quirky handing on-road
Locker can chuck teeth in abusive tall-tire applications

I hope you don't have any more problems with it.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I wonder what the differences are between their locker and an Eaton Detroit. My locker didn't or doesn't have any of those issues. I can imagine the frustration.

In any event, I just did a quick search for a comparison and found this article with this review.


Yukon Gear & Axle Grizzly Locker
The Yukon Gear & Axle (yukongear.com) Grizzly Locker is an automatic locking differential. It functions very much like a Detroit Locker, which it is essentially a copy of. However, it is generally considered to be weaker than the Detroit. We have seen some abusive tall-tire applications spit Grizzly Locker teeth.

Pros
No frills, simple automatic locking differential
100 percent traction to both tires
Cons
Quirky handing on-road
Locker can chuck teeth in abusive tall-tire applications

I hope you don't have any more problems with it.
I expect to.
You know, one guy will read that review ( i.e quirky handling on road) and think f that, while the other guy ( me) will think “ meh, they’re talking about the noise, and the clunking when going around a corner..what a bunch of wussies, I’m buyin it”)

Now ive got something that the words “ quirky” doesn‘t quite fit.
Its more like GIANT PAIN IN THE ASS.

Ive already been looking online for the fix for that..it’ll take 562.00.
* edit When you read that review though, they claim that the truetrac doesn’t apply 100% traction to both wheels..

And as with all things that I change that has a future change looming,..I’m wondering if the torque arm being so far off center somehow contributed to the loading when making that turn...
 
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MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
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I wonder what the differences are between their locker and an Eaton Detroit. My locker didn't or doesn't have any of those issues.
My only issue with my Detroit is that it likes to lock up when backing up while turning. People give you strange looks when you chirp a tire backing into a parking spot at idle.
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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My only issue with my Detroit is that it likes to lock up when backing up while turning. People give you strange looks when you chirp a tire backing into a parking spot at idle.

I've not really noticed it while backing up, but then again I don't go backward too often with it. But as I've mentioned somewhere before, the clankity-clunk of the engagement/disengagement takes some getting used to. The first time I heard/felt it I thought I seriously broke something.
 
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MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
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I've not really noticed it while backing up, but then again I don't go backward too often with it. But as I've mentioned somewhere before, the clankity-clunk of the engagement/disengagement takes some getting used to. The first time I heard/felt it I thought I seriously broke something.
It's a byproduct of the car sitting a lot, the fix is to go do a handful of lazy figure 8s in an empty parking lot.
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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It's a byproduct of the car sitting a lot, the fix is to go do a handful of lazy figure 8s in an empty parking lot.
Nah, that was on the first drive after getting the car in drivable condition. It took a minute or 2 to sink in as to what it was. Now it's expected and isn't near as violent as it was that first time - at least that's my perception anyway.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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My only issue with my Detroit is that it likes to lock up when backing up while turning. People give you strange looks when you chirp a tire backing into a parking spot at idle.

I've not really noticed it while backing up, but then again I don't go backward too often with it. But as I've mentioned somewhere before, the clankity-clunk of the engagement/disengagement takes some getting used to. The first time I heard/felt it I thought I seriously broke something.

It's a byproduct of the car sitting a lot, the fix is to go do a handful of lazy figure 8s in an empty parking lot.

Nah, that was on the first drive after getting the car in drivable condition. It took a minute or 2 to sink in as to what it was. Now it's expected and isn't near as violent as it was that first time - at least that's my perception anyway.

Agreed , when I read his description I said to myself “ he got what he wanted and I know he hates it “

Does that mean that the position makes one axle longer than the other? I would def think that it would have an effect. Each side wants to thrust the car in the direction of the centerline. One side has a mechanical advantage.
It’s simple really.
I fcked up.
I just got off the phone with the company that I purchased the Locker diff. Told dude that I wasn’t expecting a refund, I got what I thought I wanted. I asked for a recommendation for a replacement...he tells me about Richmonds Helical version of a Truetrac. like the Grizzly locker is a cheaper version of a Detroit Locker, Richmonds Grip Pro is a cheaper version of a Detroit Truetrac. I’ll be in the replacement for a little over 400 shipped with a set of new carrier bearings, and I’ll put that crazy assed locker on eBay for 300 bucks.
Im laying in bed last night thinkin’: I’ve done the exact same thing to this car that I’m constantly bitching others out here for doing...Taking a driveable fun street car, and turning it into a pain in the dick.
 

MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
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Meh,...I gotta admit I'm not all that in love with it. I want it to look like the old monster engine, but can't figure out what I need to do to match this kinda vibe w/o cutting open the side of a maverick engine, swapping over to a Aussie head, and hacking on 6 BMW tb’s.
4A27890F-6B5B-4EE0-A52E-C1AF5057B1B2.png

Why does the new engine have to be so........boring?


I've been thinking about this... (scary, I know).


We both know BMW are the experts of hiding the ugly parts of an engine, while leaving the cool parts exposed. Why not take a page from their book?
20210115_113857.jpg
20210115_145333.jpg



(Yes, I know the top picture is from a 750, it's the one I'm doing a wiring harness on, and the bottom one is from an X5 M50... it was just a good opportunity to highlight the difference an actually good looking cover can make for an engine).

Just something cool, artistic, and with flowing lines over the top of the coils should work.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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I've been thinking about this... (scary, I know).


We both know BMW are the experts of hiding the ugly parts of an engine, while leaving the cool parts exposed. Why not take a page from their book?
20210115_113857.jpg
20210115_145333.jpg



(Yes, I know the top picture is from a 750, it's the one I'm doing a wiring harness on, and the bottom one is from an X5 M50... it was just a good opportunity to highlight the difference an actually good looking cover can make for an engine).

Just something cool, artistic, and with flowing lines over the top of the coils should work.
I’m not a big engine cover fan..Even when Custom fab shops build them.
 

MustangIIMatt

I need something stupid to play with
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I’m not a big engine cover fan..Even when Custom fab shops build them.
I know, but the coils are what draws the eye away from everything else that looks good under that hood, and I can't think of a better way to hide them or to accentuate them in a good way.

I have it easy with my 4v, a pair of these http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=382333298183 will cover the coils and make the valve covers look sexy after I switch it over to COPs.

Something that could do that... maybe even scripted with something like "2JZ Cyclone" or something.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I know, but the coils are what draws the eye away from everything else that looks good under that hood, and I can't think of a better way to hide them or to accentuate them in a good way.

I have it easy with my 4v, a pair of these http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=382333298183 will cover the coils and make the valve covers look sexy after I switch it over to COPs
Oh I could hide the coils, they could mount under the intake, and new wires could extend into a fake hemi head valve cover...But who has time to make a valve cover that looks like I have a 6 cyl hemi?