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Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by madmike1157, Aug 26, 2013.
Done yet? Its been 53 minutes.
How about now...
Can you feel it?
The water starting to trickle past the flood gate?
I said it was gonna happen.
Thursday afternoon it started.
Thursday afternoon I got the Cobra brake brackets to stand off the calipers further that the GT pieces I had.
I removed the cover,and the little bolt that held the pin, then removed the axles and converted the brackets over to the new Cobra pieces. Once everything was converted over, I tried to put the caliper brackets back on.
While the stand off was correct now, there was still about a 1/4" gap between the bracket, and where the caliper mounting surface was.
I go get back on the computer and after doing some clicking, discover that there are two different Cobra housing brackets, and obviously,.....I have the wrong ones.
The difference is obvious. I still have a .250"shortfall from being able to bolt the thing together.
So I grubbed around, and found some spacers.
They were too wide. about .100" too wide.
So,...I did what anybody else would do.......I hand filed .100" off of four spacers. I got it close enough to bolt the thing together,..... but I'll have to have my machinist make the proper spacers when I go to see him next week.
So,..the rear end is basically done. Save for (4) 1/4" spacers.
On Friday, I took the subframe connectors that I've had made for 8 months, and painted them in a titanium finish. The floor of the car has been clean enough for paint for a couple of weeks, so I painted the floor from the firewall back to right in front of the axle in a truck bed coating.
Since these subframe connectors have an integral jacking rail that welds into the rocker molding, I had to mock the thing up after it dried to be sure to transfer the weld areas over to the subframe connectors
All of those ground off areas you see are where I drilled holes through the floor, and the rocker pinch weld so that I could rosette weld the jacking rail to my car.
Then I laid on my back, and got my ass burned up while molten balls of galvanized sheetmetal dripped down from above.
The pic shows one done, and the other positioned and tacked. I just got tired of the smoke, the dirt, and the fire. I'll finish the other tommorrow.
The last thing I was able to get to was the intake. I had all of RD's fins fabricated, and welded in place, and Ricks fuel rail came in last night. So, before I close the garage, I fabricate the stand offs to hold ricks fuel rail, then, spray the whole thing in a wrinkle finish paint that has to be heat cured to make it solvent resistant. After one hour in the oven, and another spent cooling it down,..I broke out my DA, and sanded the paint off the top of RD's fins. Then cleared the top (because RD's fins are made out of 1/4" mild steel) and didn't want them to rust. Then put the thing together for the photo.
So tomorrow, ( if the wife will let me in the garage) I'll build the mount for the fuel system (that I have), and seal the tank in the Red Kote I used on the last project, and paint the floor from the axle back.
Sharp looking intake.
I dig the intake. Need to read through this thread again to really get a grasp on what exactly you're building haha
Or you could hurry up and finish it so I can just see it
Heck yeah, I'm digging the connectors. What tubing did you use for them? Think of it this way Mike, at least you don't have to go back through your 8.8 (after 6 goes at getting the mesh "perfect") because you read "ft lbs" vice inch lbs on the pinion bearing drag. Thank the almighty I'm too busy working on Chrysler stuff to move the car anywhere but off the trailer. Otherwise, I would have to fire my mechanic.
That intake came out badass! Your rear looks good also. That's not really gay to say to another guy..is it?? Really looking forward to the end result with this build. Very cool.
RD,.......I even named the fins for you, and you don't like them?......I'm,....I'm so disappointed.
The tubing is 1-5/8" .134 wall roll bar tubing that I had laying around forever ( since the red car, as a matter of fact) The rectangle is 1" square .125 wall stuff. I made the exact same set for the red, and orange/black drag car before that. It's so cool to be able to slide a floor jack anywhere along the rocker and just jack away while the whole car just comes up on that side. Now,..since I'm all namby-pamby and gotta watch out where I put a jack so I wont scratch my paint on my subframe connectors, I gotta be more careful when jacking the car though.
And I've been through my fair share of headache w/ this rearend on my own thankyou. I can't put the anti-moan brackets back on because the tubes have been cut and narrowed 1.250 on each end to make it fit the car. ( now there's just no room for the brackets.) This is the second set of axles (the set in there now are Moser hardened 28 spline) the first set were stockers, cut far too short ( By Moser) that cost me almost 200.00 that is now in some steel scrap heap. And lastly,...those stupid assed brackets (that still don't work right) cost me 170.00, and I still gotta make some spacers.
So in hindsight,...I'll see "your frustration on gear setup" for 200.00, and raise you my "spend money on stuff that don't fit right" for 200.00 more.
Looking good! I am just now getting the garage heated up to swap the seal on my trans. Wifey didnt feel good after work yesterday, and so far this morning. Kids are about to lay down for naps, so now I get to work. Hope you are out working more miracles, you will have that whole car built before I get a trans swapped into my truck.
its 74 here right now.
Those fins on the intake give it a [email protected]
Funniest looking exhaust manifold I've ever seen.
Today was a great day! Started at about 9,...and finished by one, then spent the rest of the day in a downtown bar, sitting outside in the 50% humidity and 74 degree temps, drinking Dunkel German beer.
But,..up until that point I worked on the GM.
So here we go again. The tank has been sumped, and cleaned of the 35 years of internal funk, rust, and grunge for the same 8 months I've had the car. But it hasn't been sealed.
Red Kote is the stuff I used on the home made tank in the red car. Completely sealed the inside of the tank against corrosion, and possible leaks. Since I have opened this tank up and welded the sump in place, I wanted the same protection I had before. You simply pour this junk in the tank (has the consistency of red loctite) and tip the tank this way and that for about 30 minutes,...letting it rest on each new side for about 5 minutes each time. After awhile, the red stuff has coated every inch of the inside of the tank. All that's left to do is drain whats left over before it dries.
After 30 minutes, I jacked the tank against the floor, and opened up the two sump ports and let that stuff ooze out. Comes out like red mucus,..in big, ole glop-u-lations as it has started to dry.
After several hours,....all that's left to ooze out, has oozed, and all that's left is a long red stalagtite string that kinda sways in the breeze. You have to let the tank completely dry from this point. Instructions state "until there is no longer a strong odor coming from the tank"
So, while thatbad boy was dripping and oozing, I broke out the fuel system, and mocked it up so I could build the mount plate to support the pump. Unlike Scotts @RacEoHolic330 Nuclear hardened 1/4" mega plate, I opted to use 1/8" plate and tie outriggers to it for support. (I used what was left over from RD's fins)
A -8 10 micron filter, coupled to a -8 100 micron filter, going into my Mallory marine F.I. pump, coming out as -6.
I'll take the thing back apart, and apply a coat of of etching primer to the bare steel.
Then, along with the rest of the floor,..it'll get sprayed in bedliner.
Question: isn't one of those filters supposed to be installed pre-pump?
Well, Both of those filters are installed prepump. Ideally, I woulda put the 10 micron infront, and the 100 micron after, but I wanted to keep them both the same, and they are both -8. The pump is -6 out, and you cant get a 100 micron -6 filter w/o spending a buttload of money.
I'm not sure what the flow rate of your pump is, but my pump manufacturer advises against a 10 micron filter before the pump. It can inhibit flow through the pump. Mine is a 140gph pump though. You may not have to worry about it.
Wait a minute,...you mean advises against using a 100 micron filter before the pump,.....that would be a potential choke point. A 10 micron will allow small children to pass through it. That pump is rated 110 GPH free flow, 83 GPH at 40psi, and 63 at 65psi. If I remove the 100 micron filter in front, all I'm left w/for options is placing it inline upstream somewhere. I'll have to down convert it to -6. Or, I'll have to do away w/ it altogether. Arent you using a 10 micron then 100 micron combo in your system?
Micron rating is opposite of conventional thinking. The larger the number, the larger the particle.
From my pump manufacturer:
" Use of straining filters is required for the inlet of all fuel pumps, to have a fine enough filtering to protect the fuel pump, yet coarse enough not to inhibit flow, or capture enough particles to cause a building up of debris.
Typically these types of elements have micron ratings from 40 to 150 micron rating. The micron rating relates to the size of the smallest particle size captured by the filter. Fuelab recommends the use of 75 micron rating for Prodigy Series fuel pumps (75-150 micron required). "
I have a 75 micron pre-pump and a 10 micron post-pump with a check valve.
Mike, one does not brag about the fact that he handed Picasso a brush during a masterpiece. One just sits back knowing that he has helped with a brush stroke. Actually, I have a big a$$ grin and am having a T-shirt made to show my moment of greatness. Well, as far as the rear end, you beat me this time. I can guarantee that I will catch up in some future project.