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Yeah yeah, I like my Trufiber hood, so no hurry there. I have way more honey do's to accomplish, 4 year old soccer practices, and when I get time to myself Ford Ranger projects before I get back to that hood. But when I get small amounts of time at night, I enjoy reading about you having old man, kids grown and gone time to build :poo: left and right. Keep it up!
 
Yeah yeah, I like my Trufiber hood, so no hurry there. I have way more honey do's to accomplish, 4 year old soccer practices, and when I get time to myself Ford Ranger projects before I get back to that hood. But when I get small amounts of time at night, I enjoy reading about you having old man, kids grown and gone time to build **** left and right. Keep it up!

The best time in my life was when I had small children. Permanent memories of the funny s hit they do, and how fun they are to be around are all you'll have left someday, enjoy them now while you can.
Tomorrow you'll be waving them goodbye.
 
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More engine junk.

You guys remember Frank-N-Pan? The merging of two different six cylinder pans ( one fox 3.3, and one maverick 250) to create one pan right?

Well this week I had a chance to finish it up, and ck it for leaks (which it did).
Finishing it up meant that I needed to add drain plugs to the "wings". an -10 oil drain return, and a dipstick tube opening for some future dipstick.

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In keeping w/my reanimating things back from the dead, I also "cobbled" an extension of the 3.3 fox pick up tube. When I first dug this thing out of the old engine parts box it was full of sludge and chunks of old gaskets. I completely took the thing apart to be sure that there wasn't some other engine destroying piece of s hit in there, and put it back together w/ this redneck piece of black plumbing pipe.
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What can I say,...it works.

I also undertook the fabrication of an aluminum valve cover, since none can be had for this thing.
I started off by hand bending .250 wall 2" 6061 flat bar over a piece of rollbar tubing. I made two sides and butted them up against two pieces of alum dowel. Then.......................................
Glued the two pieces together.
After that shi t was dry, I reinforced the back side w/ a metal mesh, and added more epoxy to the patch. Then I cut a top out of .125 wall stuff, and glued and clamped the lid to the base. The next day, I took it apart, ran my router over the outside to create a radius, and we have the beginnings of a VC.
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Using the two holes on each end as locators, I drilled the rest of the holes through the top.
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It's not good enough to polish (because the lid shifted while it was glued, leaving a parting line exposed) so I'll paint it orange like the rest of the engine. Maybe I'll put some fins on it to jazz it up like my intake,..I'm just glad I have a way to cover the head.
 
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How is that valve cover coming along?
Haven't touched it since those pics. Been trying to get the porch complete, (another 5 yr project) and it's robbed me of my free time.
So you are painting the engine orange because....................you could not find an LS engine for the Fairmont :scratch:
That orange is Chrysler Hemi orange. It was done to match the Competition Orange that will be on 2/3rds of the rest of the car when that day comes.
And....
I could've easily found an LS for the Fairmont.
 
Well I did manage to sneak in a small amount of progress. All I really managed to do was start to get the front suspension bolted together, but as my luck goes...there's always something. But on a related note, since this car is essentially you baby daddy, the fox mustang purists can appreciate this update too.

Last week I rebuilt the LCA's and put new Energy suspension poly bushings, and 95 Mustang balljoints. Today I beat those suckers in place. ( And I do mean that in a literal sense) Then I squared up the K member using MM's method. Didn't matter,...even though the measurements showed the K member to be off significantly (1/4") I wasn't able to get it to move. I'll tell you one thing though, It ain't coming back out, and I'm not grinding on it.

As w/ several things on this build, I've been sitting on the front suspension, and brakes the longest. I bought all of that stuff at the end of last summer along w/ the wheels and tires, which was the very first UPS shipment to arrive at my door. The struts are just stock replacement KYB Gas-A-Justs, but they are for a fox body.Bolting them to a SN 95 spindle requires that a set of spacers be made, as the SN 95 spindle is narrower than the older fox strut. Additionally in my case, the bolt holes didn't line up either, and I was forced to grind the strut, and the spacers accordingly to allow them to fit.
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The old fox strut was about 1/4" wider than the SN 95 spindle. Each spacer was about .120 thick.
Timken Hubs, UPR coil over kit, UPR bumpsteer kit, UPR CC plates.
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Blurry assed pic.

I've assembled it w/o the spring because I need to establish a ride height so I can ck, and adust the bumpsteer out of the car. For now, everything is just loosely bolted together. I'll have to go to home depot and buy a piece of MDF so I can make the bumpsteer gauge to get the bumpsteer dialed in.
The tape measure is still laying at a diagonal after squaring up the K member, based on the plumb bobbed marks I made to the floor.
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This pic actually gives you a good idea of how the satin black paint finished. You can just see my fingerprints right in front of the strut tower where I hauled my ass off the floor after bolting that side together.
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Another stinkin' blurry pic. Sorry, stupid camera phone.

Your standard everyday Rock Auto Mustang performance ratio PS rack. No manual rack for this car.
That's all that got done.
 
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Mike is going to need a Samsung Galaxy S5 to complete this project. :chin
I had a great 10MP Olympus that took amazing pics that I started using at the end of the red car build. Somehow the lens got cracked, and now a blur appears in some part of the pic when I use that camera. So, I'm forced to use that stupid win 8 camera phone that can take a pic like the one of the strut at the spindle, then the very next one will suck.
 
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