I want all you folks to remember and mark this date. You heard it first, right here on Stangnet (OMFGBBQ it's like writer release spoiler)....
THE MONSTER WILL HAVE MACHINE GUNS!!!
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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I want all you folks to remember and mark this date. You heard it first, right here on Stangnet (OMFGBBQ it's like writer release spoiler)....
THE MONSTER WILL HAVE MACHINE GUNS!!!
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Sponsors (?)
Yesterday I'm off. I started installing the water meth kit.
I mounted the pump and reservoir. Ran the wires and tubing. ( I gotta focus on detailing the trunk...the thing is starting to look like my old garage did at the height of mega mess status)
These two little LEDS tell me that stuffs flowing, and the status of the reservoir fill.
I'm also gonna have to deal with how I mounted the relay board. Every wire that runs my engine comes to this thing. I mounted it when I had the dash apart, facing down, forcing you to lay on your back skinked up under there all bent up and sht.
What was I thinking?
It's gonna get relocated about right where it's hanging,....facing right about how you see it. The reason I had to drop the thing in the first place, is that my ECU is gonna be the control interface for the system, and I have an empty lug on the board waiting on that wire. That way, as opposed to just relying on the little boost sensing switch that came in the kit....I can set conditions in the ECU. I'll tell it to come on at 7 psi, but only if the engine is above 3000 rpm, and only if the tps is above 80% open...Genius.
Much better than just relying on an external stand alone switch.
At the other end, I had to install the nozzle.
Yeah,....after the throttle body. Drilled and tapped into the bend that is my intake manifold. There was actually a hole there already. I was using it as a vacuum source for my fast idle valve, which was originally located on the throttle body itself.( And is now back where it started). It all woulda worked out great, if I didn't need to open up the threads........which required that I ran a tap into it to do that....which probably dumped little chunks of steel into the intake.....which means that I'm gonna have to remove that throttle body, and vacuum it out...which is a pain in the ass...
You have choices where to mount that nozzle. It could've been mounted before, or after the throttle body. I chose the "after" because the " before" is under the fender...I'm done having to get under sht to change things out.
It's all gonna be " easy-peasy' mode from now on.
The one thing I don't like about this system is that the nozzles themselves have to be screwed directly into the threads. You'd think that they woulda/coulda came up with a mount that threads into the hole, and then the nozzle would pop in, or somehow be inserted into the mount...instead, you gotta screw, and unscrew a pipe thread nozzle into a hole in your intake manifold...
What happens when you continually screw stuff into pipe threads?
Mounting the nozzle in a high vacuum source isn't w/o its own peril though....the engine could suck water in through that nozzle during high vacuum situations
That's supposed to be alleviated by using the check valve they supply in the kit now. ( evidently, they used to sell this as an additional component, now they include it)......S'pose they were having problems with customers in the past, sucking water in their engines?....
Yeah....
This goes anywhere you wanna put it. I'm installing it right before the nozzle. ( Again,...easy-peasy mode)
I still have to finish the wiring, and test the woke thing..that means that I'll have to unscrew the nozzle out of my intake, and test spray the thing to make sure the mist is uniform and not spattery..then I gotta screw it back in.
The last thing I did w/regard to messing with the water meth system yesterday was actually finding, and buying the water meth stuff itself. The mission objective is to find blue colored washer fluid that is rated as cold as possible.
This is as cold as you can find it in Birmingham, Alabama.
This mixture is supposed to be 35/65 meth to water. I'm sposed to mix it with actual water in the reservoir at the same percentage...puzzling...why wouldn't I just pour the gallon in straight? It's already mixed. I can add bottles of Heet to spike the mixture up to 50/50...and at 50/50, the net octane the engine will see is 116.
And one gallon of this stuff is sposed to last one tankful of 93 octane...which brings up another question....who needs 116 octane on a street car? And if you don't need 116, why couldn't you substitute regular 87 and still have 110? At 2.15 a gallon.
Evidently guys use the wrong stuff when they buy this junk at the local Autozones of the world. Rain X sells a version that has their additives in the solution which is potential for gumming up the nozzle. Anything other than the blue water, and methyl-alcohol version of WW fluid is not endorsed by the mfg.
I bounced around to converting my rear shocks over as well. If you read my last update, I said I wanted to create a forward rake on the monster to make it look better from the side ( looks too long and low to me) to do that meant I woul have to screw the adjusters on my rear shocks up another inch. Doing that however, would reduce the amount of downward travel the shock was able to accomodate, leaving only an inch and a half till it topped out.
A potential "bad thing" according to the guy at QA-1.
So,..I had to buy these shock top extensions.
So they could be screwed on top of the shock,..effectively allowing me to extend the ride height, w/o having more of the shock piston extending along with it.
There now,....56 thousand words, and 8 pictures..and just about everything in the update not directly related to one-off Orange Fairmonts with a lot of body work..
Maybe I can stay in the middle of the page for one........whole.......day...
I mounted the pump and reservoir. Ran the wires and tubing. ( I gotta focus on detailing the trunk...the thing is starting to look like my old garage did at the height of mega mess status)
These two little LEDS tell me that stuffs flowing, and the status of the reservoir fill.
I'm also gonna have to deal with how I mounted the relay board. Every wire that runs my engine comes to this thing. I mounted it when I had the dash apart, facing down, forcing you to lay on your back skinked up under there all bent up and sht.
What was I thinking?
It's gonna get relocated about right where it's hanging,....facing right about how you see it. The reason I had to drop the thing in the first place, is that my ECU is gonna be the control interface for the system, and I have an empty lug on the board waiting on that wire. That way, as opposed to just relying on the little boost sensing switch that came in the kit....I can set conditions in the ECU. I'll tell it to come on at 7 psi, but only if the engine is above 3000 rpm, and only if the tps is above 80% open...Genius.
Much better than just relying on an external stand alone switch.
At the other end, I had to install the nozzle.
Yeah,....after the throttle body. Drilled and tapped into the bend that is my intake manifold. There was actually a hole there already. I was using it as a vacuum source for my fast idle valve, which was originally located on the throttle body itself.( And is now back where it started). It all woulda worked out great, if I didn't need to open up the threads........which required that I ran a tap into it to do that....which probably dumped little chunks of steel into the intake.....which means that I'm gonna have to remove that throttle body, and vacuum it out...which is a pain in the ass...
You have choices where to mount that nozzle. It could've been mounted before, or after the throttle body. I chose the "after" because the " before" is under the fender...I'm done having to get under sht to change things out.
It's all gonna be " easy-peasy' mode from now on.
The one thing I don't like about this system is that the nozzles themselves have to be screwed directly into the threads. You'd think that they woulda/coulda came up with a mount that threads into the hole, and then the nozzle would pop in, or somehow be inserted into the mount...instead, you gotta screw, and unscrew a pipe thread nozzle into a hole in your intake manifold...
What happens when you continually screw stuff into pipe threads?
Mounting the nozzle in a high vacuum source isn't w/o its own peril though....the engine could suck water in through that nozzle during high vacuum situations
That's supposed to be alleviated by using the check valve they supply in the kit now. ( evidently, they used to sell this as an additional component, now they include it)......S'pose they were having problems with customers in the past, sucking water in their engines?....
Yeah....
This goes anywhere you wanna put it. I'm installing it right before the nozzle. ( Again,...easy-peasy mode)
I still have to finish the wiring, and test the woke thing..that means that I'll have to unscrew the nozzle out of my intake, and test spray the thing to make sure the mist is uniform and not spattery..then I gotta screw it back in.
The last thing I did w/regard to messing with the water meth system yesterday was actually finding, and buying the water meth stuff itself. The mission objective is to find blue colored washer fluid that is rated as cold as possible.
This is as cold as you can find it in Birmingham, Alabama.
This mixture is supposed to be 35/65 meth to water. I'm sposed to mix it with actual water in the reservoir at the same percentage...puzzling...why wouldn't I just pour the gallon in straight? It's already mixed. I can add bottles of Heet to spike the mixture up to 50/50...and at 50/50, the net octane the engine will see is 116.
And one gallon of this stuff is sposed to last one tankful of 93 octane...which brings up another question....who needs 116 octane on a street car? And if you don't need 116, why couldn't you substitute regular 87 and still have 110? At 2.15 a gallon.
Evidently guys use the wrong stuff when they buy this junk at the local Autozones of the world. Rain X sells a version that has their additives in the solution which is potential for gumming up the nozzle. Anything other than the blue water, and methyl-alcohol version of WW fluid is not endorsed by the mfg.
I bounced around to converting my rear shocks over as well. If you read my last update, I said I wanted to create a forward rake on the monster to make it look better from the side ( looks too long and low to me) to do that meant I woul have to screw the adjusters on my rear shocks up another inch. Doing that however, would reduce the amount of downward travel the shock was able to accomodate, leaving only an inch and a half till it topped out.
A potential "bad thing" according to the guy at QA-1.
So,..I had to buy these shock top extensions.
So they could be screwed on top of the shock,..effectively allowing me to extend the ride height, w/o having more of the shock piston extending along with it.
There now,....56 thousand words, and 8 pictures..and just about everything in the update not directly related to one-off Orange Fairmonts with a lot of body work..
Maybe I can stay in the middle of the page for one........whole.......day...
Attachments
Hey Mike thanks for proving I didn't read any instructions.... I need to drain my meth tank now and use the plain blue -20f stuff.
Btw from reading about using ww fluid you don't mix any water into it. Just pour it in and run. Unless of course you bought the concentrate which is 100%meth....
Btw from reading about using ww fluid you don't mix any water into it. Just pour it in and run. Unless of course you bought the concentrate which is 100%meth....
Killer update mike,
So the meth only sprays when your air temps get to a certain range?
When I worked at my last shop,we mixed our own window washer fluid from concentrate-
http://qwixmix.com/save-washer-fluid/
We had the mix for -32 and never had any freeze,so I’m guessing the meth level was high enough lol.
How much work is it going to be to change your shock tops?
So the meth only sprays when your air temps get to a certain range?
When I worked at my last shop,we mixed our own window washer fluid from concentrate-
http://qwixmix.com/save-washer-fluid/
We had the mix for -32 and never had any freeze,so I’m guessing the meth level was high enough lol.
How much work is it going to be to change your shock tops?
Tune the worst stuff you reasonably expect to encounter and run the best.
Tuning for the good stuff and having to resort to the not-so-good stuff, sucks.
Tuning for the good stuff and having to resort to the not-so-good stuff, sucks.
Here I thought water meth was a one off product like having to refill a nitrous bottle. Learn some new everyday they say.
Did you get the shock tops installed, or just got them delivered to your house yesterday?
Did you get the shock tops installed, or just got them delivered to your house yesterday?
stangboy
Founding Member
Well since all I can come up with is, "Nice install, Mike. I'm sure this will give you what you need to add ALL THA BOOST!!" I hope this helps to at least keep your thread at the top of the list today. 
The big thing is to ensure you're using fluid made from distilled water and not tap water.
The tap water crap has a tendency to leave junk behind that clogs nozzles, pumps, lines... The other part is being able to trust that they actually used distilled water.
MY 85 GT
10 Year Member
I use boost juice easy buy a case mixed already and the exact ever time....
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Good work Mike, you’re doing great
Trunk looks like hell.
What this guy said.
Throw away the washer fluid. It is for windshields. Use stuff actually made for what you are doing.
https://www.snowperformance.net/Snow-Performance-Boost-Juice-p/40008.htm
https://www.snowperformance.net/Snow-Performance-Boost-Juice-p/40008.htm
To add....
I gotta take back the -30 stuff. I called the mfg of that stuff ( cause that's what I do,.....call the actual guy who can tell me directly what I wanna know) the mfg of that junk wouldn't tell me what concentration the meth that made up part of it ( said it was against some rule). But,...he did tell me that along with distilled water, and methyl-alcohol, there was a small amount of ethylene glycol in there with it.
Ethylene glycol.....AKA antifreeze.
You cannot inject antifreeze into an engine, and hope for anything good to come from it. So,....along with Steve,...I'm taking stuff back.
I called Snow Performance again today too....( Why did I do this again???) Oh yeah,...I wanted a direct answer from the mfg.
He stated that the -20 degree stuff was the only real stuff I could buy that would be free of any additional ingredients, other than water, and meth. Probably mixed to about 30/70% meth to water. You can buy this stuff at any auto parts store for 3 bucks a gallon. Adding a bottle of Heet adds another 3 bucks. So,........6 dollars a gallon for an " Almost 50/50% mixture". The guy went on to discourage just running out and buying the bottle of Heet for the sake of doing it,..and suggested that I run the -20 fluid alone, and tune the car around that...
So in the spirit of taking his advice,..who am I to question it? Who am I to question saving 5 dollars a gallon over using Snow Performances' boost juice? At the very worst case scenario, I add a 3 dollar bottle of straight methyl-alcohol ( Heet) to bring the water meth ratio close to 50%, boost the octane number, slow down the burn, have an easily repeatable mixture, and still be 2 dollars less per gallon than boost juice? I mean who can't see the math here?
Especially since the cars gonna drink this stuff like a baby elephant not yet weaned off of mommies milk?
How long would it take before the extra 20.00 a case starts to eat into your ass,..making you wonder what you were thinking when you decided that 18 psi was better than 15 psi, and now those 3 pounds are costing you $ 200.00 more a season, just to drive the car?
Seems pretty simple to me...tune to the blue...avoid temptation to turn it up..save money,..get your windows tinted with the proceeds.
I gotta take back the -30 stuff. I called the mfg of that stuff ( cause that's what I do,.....call the actual guy who can tell me directly what I wanna know) the mfg of that junk wouldn't tell me what concentration the meth that made up part of it ( said it was against some rule). But,...he did tell me that along with distilled water, and methyl-alcohol, there was a small amount of ethylene glycol in there with it.
Ethylene glycol.....AKA antifreeze.
You cannot inject antifreeze into an engine, and hope for anything good to come from it. So,....along with Steve,...I'm taking stuff back.I called Snow Performance again today too....( Why did I do this again???) Oh yeah,...I wanted a direct answer from the mfg.
He stated that the -20 degree stuff was the only real stuff I could buy that would be free of any additional ingredients, other than water, and meth. Probably mixed to about 30/70% meth to water. You can buy this stuff at any auto parts store for 3 bucks a gallon. Adding a bottle of Heet adds another 3 bucks. So,........6 dollars a gallon for an " Almost 50/50% mixture". The guy went on to discourage just running out and buying the bottle of Heet for the sake of doing it,..and suggested that I run the -20 fluid alone, and tune the car around that...
So in the spirit of taking his advice,..who am I to question it? Who am I to question saving 5 dollars a gallon over using Snow Performances' boost juice? At the very worst case scenario, I add a 3 dollar bottle of straight methyl-alcohol ( Heet) to bring the water meth ratio close to 50%, boost the octane number, slow down the burn, have an easily repeatable mixture, and still be 2 dollars less per gallon than boost juice? I mean who can't see the math here?
Especially since the cars gonna drink this stuff like a baby elephant not yet weaned off of mommies milk?
How long would it take before the extra 20.00 a case starts to eat into your ass,..making you wonder what you were thinking when you decided that 18 psi was better than 15 psi, and now those 3 pounds are costing you $ 200.00 more a season, just to drive the car?
Seems pretty simple to me...tune to the blue...avoid temptation to turn it up..save money,..get your windows tinted with the proceeds.
Maybe keep a gallon or two of the -30 wIndow washer fluid-and put it in the Mini’s window washer resivoir 
lol
lol
Mike I read the same thing, AutoZone has the sdms on there website that shows the -20 stuff at 30%or more.
To add....
I gotta take back the -30 stuff. I called the mfg of that stuff ( cause that's what I do,.....call the actual guy who can tell me directly what I wanna know) the mfg of that junk wouldn't tell me what concentration the meth that made up part of it ( said it was against some rule). But,...he did tell me that along with distilled water, and methyl-alcohol, there was a small amount of ethylene glycol in there with it.
Ethylene glycol.....AKA antifreeze.
I called Snow Performance again today too....( Why did I do this again???) Oh yeah,...I wanted a direct answer from the mfg.
He stated that the -20 degree stuff was the only real stuff I could buy that would be free of any additional ingredients, other than water, and meth. Probably mixed to about 30/70% meth to water. You can buy this stuff at any auto parts store for 3 bucks a gallon. Adding a bottle of Heet adds another 3 bucks. So,........6 dollars a gallon for an " Almost 50/50% mixture". The guy went on to discourage just running out and buying the bottle of Heet for the sake of doing it,..and suggested that I run the -20 fluid alone, and tune the car around that...
So in the spirit of taking his advice,..who am I to question it? Who am I to question saving 5 dollars a gallon over using Snow Performances' boost juice? At the very worst case scenario, I add a 3 dollar bottle of straight methyl-alcohol ( Heet) to bring the water meth ratio close to 50%, boost the octane number, slow down the burn, have an easily repeatable mixture, and still be 2 dollars less per gallon than boost juice? I mean who can't see the math here?
Especially since the cars gonna drink this stuff like a baby elephant not yet weaned off of mommies milk?
How long would it take before the extra 20.00 a case starts to eat into your ass,..making you wonder what you were thinking when you decided that 18 psi was better than 15 psi, and now those 3 pounds are costing you $ 200.00 more a season, just to drive the car?
Seems pretty simple to me...tune to the blue...avoid temptation to turn it up..save money,..get your windows tinted with the proceeds.
Where do you live again? Alabama? Why the 50/50 mixture? The active ingredient here is the water if I'm not mistaken. The alcohol serves as the stabilizer. What is the benefit of the higher content?
The benefit of the methanol is the octane boost. The water cools the intake charge, and the meth makes up for the lost "ignitable" portion of that.
Hey buddy, its 20:49 and your thread is still on page 1 of the forum. Mission accomplished.
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