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But if people dont know the difference, then I'm a failure.


Maybee I got Mike Todo what he always was gonna anyway....

The difference between a New Zealander and an Australian?

New Zealand exists in law by two New South Wales acts. It joined the Empire as the result of the Act of State by which it was added to New South Wales in 1839 The New South Wales Govenment Act. So Kiwis are effectively Okers, Strines or Cobbers anyway.

To celebate it, we removed a couple of stars from the Flag....

Australian


AustFlag2.jpg


Australian-flag-620x400.jpg



Kiwi is the one on der left, and the country is in der bottom oft der werlt....

x-flag.jpg


x-flag.jpg




View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zX-Z9vAcAo


Aw :poo:, sorry buddy. I missed that you actually reside in New Zealand. My apologies. So the correct term to not offend you is Kiwi, right?
 
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No, not really. There isn't as much room under the header there, and besides..that center trunk line would have to run beneath tube 4 for the vertical run, and that tube tucks under the block tight as it is. I think the spacer fixed the problem anyway.

Well, I tried. And I even drew a picture! Hopefully it all gives the intended result. I can't wait to see the first video of it running on itb's.
 
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Aw :poo:, sorry buddy. I missed that you actually reside in New Zealand. My apologies. So the correct term to not offend you is Kiwi, right?


Its all good. You cannot offened me if its nationhood. I'm patriotic, like...I love my country, but I've got a whole world to learn about.Being 'owned" as an Aussie is just fine, because the colonial histroy and how it happened I know about. This is Mikes post, and the whole interaction is pretty cool, and has been everywhere Mike has been over the years. The Ninety Five input is fun to watch unfold on my big screen down here.

I like to learn about all the little things that the Stangnet Demographic likes, and have a laugh about what people dislike.

Do Kiwi fruits actually grow in N.Z.? I could google it, but Dean's explanations, anecdotes, and Empire history lessons are worth the price of admission. And he knows a buttload about Ford cars!


nzhistory.govt.nz/the-chinese-gooseberry-becomes-the-kiwifruit said:
Yup, they now grow in New Zealand but they are Chinese imports which New Zealanders did a marketing job on, changing the name to Kiwi Fruit from New Zealand slang term Chinese Goosebury.

New Zealand began exporting the fruit to the US in the 1950s. This was the height of the Cold War and the term Chinese gooseberry was a marketing nightmare for Turners and Growers. Their first idea, ‘melonettes’, was equally unpopular with US importers because melons and berries were subject to high import tariffs. In June 1959, Jack Turner suggested the name kiwifruit during a Turners and Growers management meeting in Auckland. His idea was adopted and this later became the industry-wide name.


Then it was changed from Kiwi Fruit to Zespri, probably because Kiwi kids thought they were eating a baby Kiwi in its egg shell. And Itally grows way more Kiwi fruit than we kiwis do.


nzhistory.govt.nz/the-chinese-gooseberry-becomes-the-kiwifruit said:
New Zealand kiwifruit is now marketed under the brand-name Zespri, partly as a way to distinguish ‘Kiwi’ kiwifruit from the produce of other countries.

I found when I was 10 years old in 1980 that the Zespri fruits work real good if you jamb them into small fry car exhausts like 65 cubic inch 1960 Triumph Herelds.The lady who owned the car like that used to look out her window kind strange when I went past, so I kinda snuk around and jambed one of those Chinie Bad boys fair into the 1-1/8" iron exhaust with fiendish mallaice and militant forethought...., and then I never went past her house again. She was a teacher at my local High Schoo, I later found out, and because it was a fun gig to do stuff like that, I mouthed off to a friend and so she found out it was me, and I 'm sure certain she downgraded my Social Studies report marks often for being a peretual smart arse....., and it took me another 13 years to make piece with the old battle axe when I introduced her to my wife at a school reunion in 1992. Great ice breaker.

And the funny thing? She loved China and made multiple trips there, so I fed her my Fred Dagg anti commie retoric, learned from my mates cash crop of NZ Comedy tapes....


Back to you all.....Zespri'ed out..................
 
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I'm committed. 4 of six throttle bodies are set in place. I started with the two end pieces, then the middle, (#4) Lastly #5. The shaft spins effortlessly, and I can guarantee that that won't change when I add the last two. Three of the throttle bodies are support versions, and 3 of them are just pass-throughs. I.e. 3 of them have no bearings, they do not touch the shaft. Therefore, there will be no added drag when I install the final two.
I will however have to come up with a way to back the shaft up far enough to allow me to even install the two remaining units (2,and 3). I can place a block under the pan, and lift that side of the engine off of its mount base, and the shaft will slide past the upper radiator saddle. I think I have this part licked.
I expect to get al of the pipe plugs from summit tomorrow, as well as some new black header wrap so as not to ignore Iowa Nicks suggestion that I wrap the tube that is contacting the fitting to add a little extra heat barrier there. Waiting on that stuff so that I can reassemble the exhaust permanently again...

(for real permanent this time.....)

There now, Nick......I hope that you'll sleep better knowing that I don't ignore you just because you don't live in New Zealand...
In actuality, I ignore you because you live in Iowa. :jester: After all,....On the day that they decide to film a Lord of the Rings trilogy in Council Bluffs Ia., I'll listen to every word you say,...And put it on a plaque so as not to forget it.
 
There now, Nick......I hope that you'll sleep better knowing that I don't ignore you just because you don't live in New Zealand..

Well now, at this point you can not finish the car and I'll sleep just fine! Just think, you didnt want to space the header from the block because you didnt want to redo your RTV... Yet you'll scrap hours spent forming metal in favor of a V.2 of this or that. Shoulda stayed in Iowa and kept your common sense, well in Eastern Iowa anyway.
 
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I'm committed. 4 of six throttle bodies are set in place. I started with the two end pieces, then the middle, (#4) Lastly #5. The shaft spins effortlessly, and I can guarantee that that won't change when I add the last two. Three of the throttle bodies are support versions, and 3 of them are just pass-throughs. I.e. 3 of them have no bearings, they do not touch the shaft. Therefore, there will be no added drag when I install the final two.
I will however have to come up with a way to back the shaft up far enough to allow me to even install the two remaining units (2,and 3). I can place a block under the pan, and lift that side of the engine off of its mount base, and the shaft will slide past the upper radiator saddle. I think I have this part licked.
I expect to get al of the pipe plugs from summit tomorrow, as well as some new black header wrap so as not to ignore Iowa Nicks suggestion that I wrap the tube that is contacting the fitting to add a little extra heat barrier there. Waiting on that stuff so that I can reassemble the exhaust permanently again...

(for real permanent this time.....)

There now, Nick......I hope that you'll sleep better knowing that I don't ignore you just because you don't live in New Zealand...
In actuality, I ignore you because you live in Iowa.:jester: After all,....On the day that they decide to film a Lord of the Rings trilogy in Council Bluffs Ia., I'll listen to every word you say,...And put it on a plaque so as not to forget it.



Ah, a committed joker I like.

joker.jpg


Iowea lot to your intellgence, Mike and Nick. But I'm sad CMA that you didn't use the Magicians ruse of the short chord along the circumfrential dIameter, or the maximum possible 1-3/8ths to 1-7/16ths maximum underbust to waist dimensions to allow parrallax error, and the apparent the division of fine machinery into two or maybee three parts.

Xhibit A - short chord along the circumfrential dIameter

Adam_steinfelds_x_sword_illusion.jpg


Xhibit B - The aesthetic 1.375 - 1.4375 factor reduction in width ratio exists for another purpose....
Sawing_Corset_Emmeci_2015_vs_TS_cropped.jpg


Xhibit C - The said parrallax error, allowing the impossible to become a visual reality...

Sawing_Corset_Offset_brightside.jpg




Please note well; One of these is belly button lint, but I'm sure Davedacarpainter will undestand what I'm getting at.droopie85gt will understand what we have here is a failure to communicate.

Meantime, those who didn't contribute, feel free to navel gaze.....


This relates to being able to split the six barrels of the ITB into two sets of three insofar as the common Solex 34 EEIT Gear Segments
are like the 38 DGES/DGAS, and allow the two parts to be phased apart about 1 inch or so


On a carb engine, the carbs are supposed to be level, so you can use the 3-1/2 degrees of engine tilt to run an ITB system leve in the engine bay, and out of phase equal to the gear segemnts.

In your case, maybee not what your looking for, but it is a trick that can work if your lashing a whole bunch of bind prone throttle bodies to gether.


Or, spltting them apart. Hence the show girl in the guillotine schtick.

solex-zahnsegmente-satz.jpg
 

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Ah, a committed joker I like.

joker.jpg


Iowea lot to your intellgence, Mike and Nick. But I'm sad CMA that you didn't use the Magicians ruse of the short chord along the circumfrential dIameter, or the maximum possible 1-3/8ths to 1-7/16ths maximum underbust to waist dimensions to allow parrallax error, and the apparent the division of fine machinery into two or maybee three parts.

Xhibit A - short chord along the circumfrential dIameter

Adam_steinfelds_x_sword_illusion.jpg


Xhibit B - The aesthetic 1.375 - 1.4375 factor reduction in width ratio exists for another purpose....
Sawing_Corset_Emmeci_2015_vs_TS_cropped.jpg


Xhibit C - The said parrallax error, allowing the impossible to become a visual reality...

Sawing_Corset_Offset_brightside.jpg




Please note well; One of these is belly button lint, but I'm sure Davedacarpainter will undestand what I'm getting at.droopie85gt will understand what we have here is a failure to communicate.

Meantime, those who didn't contribute, feel free to navel gaze.....


This relates to being able to split the six barrels of the ITB into two sets of three insofar as the common Solex 34 EEIT Gear Segments
are like the 38 DGES/DGAS, and allow the two parts to be phased apart about 1 inch or so


On a carb engine, the carbs are supposed to be level, so you can use the 3-1/2 degrees of engine tilt to run an ITB system leve in the engine bay, and out of phase equal to the gear segemnts.

In your case, maybee not what your looking for, but it is a trick that can work if your lashing a whole bunch of bind prone throttle bodies to gether.


Or, spltting them apart. Hence the show girl in the guillotine schtick.

solex-zahnsegmente-satz.jpg


Well, I got the Guns N Roses reference, and like magic tricks...
 
Sigh....:nonono:

The build that seemingly goes nowhere just took another ambiguous step forward, then took another one straight sideways.

I said in my last update that I started putting the throttle bodies one at a time, all the while checking their collective alignment. I got to the point where I couldn't add any more of them because I couldn't pull the throttle shaft back far enough to allow me to install the front two TB's.
That changed when I stuck a block of wood under the oil pan, and jacked that bish up.
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I was finally able to slide the shaft far enough back and get the remaining TB's installed, and lined up.
IMAG0110_zpsmb8taskt.jpg

Look at the picture. All of the dog bones are installed, the throttle actuator lever is installed, and one of the two shaft restrictors are on in this pic. The shaft moves easily back and forth, so it has to have that movement controlled. Right after the #1 TB, I took one of the sleeves I made when I first cut the original shaft into sections, and used it as a shaft lock.

I also made another feeble attempt at the throttle linkage......
IMAG0109_zpskhsu8jbj.jpg

It only gets the throttle open to about the 7/8ths stage. The blades close to opening all the way, and are almost vertical....But...close doesn't work here. The operation is stodgy. I left the throttle cable exit point right where it was originally, and shortened the cable about 6" (I don't know why I did that,....I shoulda left it alone)
When I went to reinstall the gas pedal, I only had one nut, and one bolt to do laying on the floor to do it with. I thought it odd that the gas pedal would bolt to the floor, considering that there was a stud sticking up through one of the holes.
This was the bolt..
IMAG0114_zps5rlp05y3.jpg

After looking at it though, fate reared its ugly head again...
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It wasn't a bolt at all,....it's what is left of the broken off stud that is way the hell up under the dash,.....I now have to find a way to drill out a broken off stud that is so far under the dash that you have to twist yourself up under there just to see it. Now I gotta try to get a drill up there and drill out a broken off stud,......

download_zps0kliqqef.png

Excellent!:cautious:

On the other side of the engine, the entire hot side is bolted in and clamped together..
IMAG0111_zps5drjnn0u.jpg


As you can see Nick, @95BlueStallion , I wrapped the #4, and #6 tubes...so chalk that up on your "He listens to what I say board."
IMAG0112_zpsqtarc6du.jpg

I coulda wrapped the #6 tube further down, but I was worried that I wouldn't have enough product to wrap the other tube, so I stopped short. ( I actually had enough, but it's laying on the floor now.
There is still an airgap between the fittings now, and the wrapped tubes though..
IMAG0113_zps4yoq3wwm.jpg


This is definitely done as far as I'm concerned.
I'm probably just gonna make a plate with a stud welded to it that is gonna get screwed to the floor that will become the new upper mount point for the gas pedal... Then I can refocus on getting the TB's to open ALL THE WAY when you step on the pedal.
 
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Search craigslist. I think it's on the Nashville one...or somewhere that comes up when you click, 'check nearby places.' Dude obviously robbed a truck or a parts warehouse. I think he said he had 300 or 3000 rolls of header wrap. More than enough for a 6 cylinder.

Damn, I spend way too much time on Craigslist, obviously. He's here in Memphis. I may pick some up and spend a leisurely weekend drinking heavily and wrapping my 351 headers.

3000 rolls of chrome header wrap
 
Looks good Mike. At least now you dont have to worry about that header/coolant line being a "what if" situation that pops up while youre sitting in traffic on the way to a show or something.

You'll get that gas pedal mount figured out Im sure, and the ITBs are getting there. Pretty bad ass that you are getting close to completion!
 
Get with the program Dave. That head doesn't hold a candle to mine.
The exhaust and intake are still on the same side of the engine......If I wanted that kind of BS, I may as well just rig up a blow torch and point it at my throttle bodies, and run that thing wide assed open all the time, for all the good having an intake directly above an exhaust header would do me..
It's based on another Aussie head though, it was copied from the stock Ford 250 2v design. It's vastly superior to the stock cast iron piece of crap that came on my engin, and it allows you to swap out the intake, and headers with commonly available Aussie units.

Problem is,..That head is stupidly expensive, (over 2k) and you still gotta buy that induction/exhaust stuff from Australia.

I bought my head for 250 bucks.

It looks way cooler than that head does, and it's monst-a-fide.
 
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CMA and I had The Discussion back in 2013s...You know the one....is the alloy Aussie head that good?

Well, I liked the US Classic Inlines head, and thaught, actually, that the old iron log head chopped and channeled with a high port job would be as good.


But Kate picked up the aluminum head and compared it to the iron Maverick head, and considering the cost and all that, the then Mad Mike 1157 just knew he could make the Aussie X flow the top dawg.


And I rest My case.CarMichael Angelo has made it work better than I thought he would. And it'll only get tougher, nastier and a whole lot snarlier!


I helped the late Mike Winterboer with the Cross flow/Boss 302 head bolts, the target CFM figures, and the spark plug sizes and giving him the conviction that spending 10 K U$ to an Australian compnay who was already making 4.08" bore spacing non cross flow heads make 375 hp was a Good Idea. That tooling was for the Yella Terra head for the 138/149/161/173/179/186/202 Holden non cross flow head. It was in jepardy due to economies of scale, with Yella Terra's boss Dave Bennett not being able to get a good quality casting at less than 50 heads per year. It got wors with the transition to V8's, which split the tooling costs, and make the economies of scale even harder. The US made or US market, Chinese or Tiwanese built aluminum heads for I6's make good returns, but 2000 dollars US has to yield about I.25 hp net per cubic inch to trigger a responce in a potential T code 200 or L code 250 Ford in line six powered X body or Fox to make it work. Before turboing, Mike Winterboer got 266 flywheel hp and 235 hp in two 200 engines with Clay Smith 264 cams , and when corrected for the auto transimission, and the 18 pounds of turbo boost, Kelly and Wills 250 Falcon would have made just on 300 hp with the same cam and a 4bbl carb. It made over 440 rwhp with boost and a C4 auto. r


Mike made the heads in four casting lots, the first two in Australia, then the next three in the USA, about 160 or so total, in batches of over 50.


You know, they sold 68 used, Aussie import iron 1971-1973 XY and XA 250 M code 170 Horsepower 2-bbl heads in the USA between 2000 and 2006, so Mike B knew it wouldn't be hard to sell 150 brand spankers in six years. But Mike got sick, and the 2008 October meltdown ment he lost his supporting aluminum window contracting busiiness, so it was a miracle he sold 160. He did aluminum head core boxes from CHI Australia for the 240/300 truck motor, and financed some 2-bbl adaptors, Small Ford six rocker covers, HEI ignitions, and headers, as well as a whole raft of Clay Smith cams. Mike Winterboer did just like Jack Clifford did, but also looked at going for the jugular in 2007 with his 6i Fastback 69 250 EFi turbo Mustang

mufp_0710_16_z%2bturbocharged_six_cylinder_mustang%2bmike_winterboer.jpg


He had excellent help, but his finaces were threadbare, and he kept it all afloat till is death in early 2015.


I'm glad Matt Cox is making it in the USA now, with Vintage Inlines.

The idea I shared with Mike Winterboer was that the Classic Inlines intake manifold should be two - piece.



With one part like this, the old Weber DCOE 40-42-45-48 intake, and the other part like this


vintage-inline-head-05.jpg


with another 1, 2, 3 4bbl intake like this joined to on to it.

1_2_3_4_bbl_intake.jpg



In so doing, it left the ITB ideas out in the cold for years. And people still want triple Carter YFA's or Weber ICT's like you put on a air cooled Volkswagen or Army Jeep.

Matt Cox is on the game....shifting the operation back to Motown and people will wanna copy what CarMichael Angelo has done, but they'll be happy paying 2k for one alloy head that makes the same amount of power, without all the block mods CMA has done.

Performance I6's are sort of like that time Frank Zappa butted heads at the congressional Senate hearing with Parents Music Resource Center. You saw a clean cut due who used to have H-A-I-R talking sassy hardcore smack and doing it good.....People want to tune in just to see what all the fuss is about.


Others like belly buttons.



Yeah, same belly buttons are cool....but only a few. When pictures come from Mikes Garage, everyone wants to see!
 
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Having raced and wrenched on Buick 455 for a while, I can understand the financial and business model aspects of trying to cast aluminum heads or blocks for something not mainstream, like a SBC, BBC, SBF, 385 series Ford or Hemi. When you get to such a targeted market, it is really hard to make a business case to cast 50 heads and having to sell them for over $2,000. If you are looking at being different but having to drop $2k just on a head, it makes since to change to a bellybutton engine!
 
I'm gonna post a pic first and let it speak for itself. ( Then I'll speak for the pic):rolleyes:
IMAG0116_zpsqsmh7lgt.jpg

Can you say Wide,.......Open,.....Throttle?

This was done while my son sat in the car with his foot planted on the floor. I think I've finally figured out the necessary math to get the throttle actuated.
IMAG0117_zpspg540dah.jpg

This was where I needed to adjust my thinking. I was trying to make the throttle easier to open by lengthening the actuator rod. What that did at the same time was increase the distance a cable had to pull on that lever to fully rotate the shaft to full open. You can see the original intersect point at the end of the lever. I moved it inboard, but at that point, the thing crashes into the throttle bodies, and is all over the linkage. Just like the three bears however, baby bear's spot is the sweet spot. The pedal is distinctly heavier, but not so bad as to give me a leg cramp or anything.

Now, the last hurdle is tackled. The engine can go fully together. But first I've got to pull the throttle cable back off, the brackets, levers and the "fix" for the gas pedal mount and tweak/paint them. The cable needs to be shortened up about 1/2", the interconnect cable that runs over the pulleys is gonna be increased in diameter to 3/32" ( But now I have an exact length template to work off of)

So then,. I've got a working system that I can now refine to make it as close to perfect as I can.

I give myself 2 thumbs up.:nice::nice:
 
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