1978 Fairmont : It just doesn't get any better than this:

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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Before..
20200716_170553.jpg

20210109_142118.jpg

After.

Its not a big difference, but it adds detail to an otherwise monochromatic engine. By painting the valve covers, i’ve committed to nothing when comparing to the investment to have them powder coated. This will give me some time to decide if, or how I want to change it.
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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Personally, I think the change that made the biggest difference was the coil plate. I think the red kind of hides the engine in a way, if that makes sense. Just a spitball idea for consideration - what if the valve covers, coil plate, and puke tank were grey? A little darker than the bare metal bits like the turbo and caster/camber plates but definitely lighter than black. I know you're looking to break away from monochromatic but it is a mechanical piece, I guess I feel it should have some sort of industrial look or something, especially since it's swapped into a car it's not meant to be in. And since the valve covers are essentially hidden under the coil plate I think if they were both the same color the coils would have something to stand out against. If you want to dress the engine a little you could use polished or stainless fasteners, especially on the darker pieces, although a lot of them look hidden from what I can see. It just seems like a dark area now, something lighter would make it stand out. Anyway, just something I would consider. :shrug:
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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Meh,...I gotta admit I'm not all that in love with it. I want it to look like the old monster engine, but can't figure out what I need to do to match this kinda vibe w/o cutting open the side of a maverick engine, swapping over to a Aussie head, and hacking on 6 BMW tb’s.
4A27890F-6B5B-4EE0-A52E-C1AF5057B1B2.png

Why does the new engine have to be so........boring?
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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Copper/Bronze color before looked better man. Just my 2$.
You’re right. I will return it back. The difference will be that I won’t paint the copper over wrinkle black..( it’ll be painted over red,instead).
I don’t know if I’ll wait, and run it this way for a bit, or I’ll take it back apart immediatel.

( Who wants to take a guess on this decision)
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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You’re right. I will return it back. The difference will be that I won’t paint the copper over wrinkle black..( it’ll be painted over red,instead).
I don’t know if I’ll wait, and run it this way for a bit, or I’ll take it back apart immediatel.

( Who wants to take a guess on this decision)
I’d have the engine somehow match the body color. Red doesn’t do that. My .02!
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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I think it needs smooth copper and one of these to help it pop. Could even make a stencil or get a decal made that says Gila Monster in a creative script color combo right above the belt. I think it would bring out the industrial que more. People like seeing belts and gears. Good ol'ebay

Screenshot_20210110-011043_eBay.jpg
 
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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Nov 29, 1999
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I think it needs smooth copper and one of these to help it pop. Could even make a stencil or get a decal made that says Gila Monster in a creative script color combo right above the belt. I think it would bring out the industrial que more. People like seeing belts and gears. Good ol'ebay

Screenshot_20210110-011043_eBay.jpg
That is an entire top end cover. If I wanted the gears exposed, I’d just leave the top cover off. I will paint them smooth copper.
Its been in the high 30’s - low 40’s here during the day for the last 4 days, with the last 3 pissing rain, offering me little incentive to do anything. While my garage gets its heat from the room next door, it’s not really warm enough to paint in. Paint runs like crazy. The wheel skirts will need to be redone, the valve covers will now need the same.
Ive been chasing freakin exhaust leaks. The ones under the car are fixed I think. I hope I solved the one that has been in the engine compartment since I put that 2j in there, I dealt with that one yesterday. There is a short “ S” shaped tube that routes from the exhaust header to the wastegate inlet that was tweaked just enough to not let it seal. before the exhaust gets too hot, you can actually wrap your hand around the Vband flange, and feel it leaking. I had to cut that one in half too and bolt both flanges in place. The resulting mis-match at the cut was welded back together..
( And boy what a disaster does that look like now)
If it works, and the leak is sealed, i think I’m done. All i’d have to do would be to bolt the rear tires back on, and go drive it.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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This morning I fixed the “wrong“ in the engine compartment. I wanted to get that done so I wouldnt be tempted to leave it.
20210114_153122.jpg

I’m sayin much better. After painting over the red, the copper kinda takes on a rose gold look, but that’s ok with me.
I wanted to take the car to the dealership to have the AC system evacuated so that I can change out the drier..I didn’t do that after the engine swap, and just attempted to charge the system after pulling a vacuum....no worky.


It also would give me the chance to test out the torque arm, make sure that the rear end was working, and see if the power felt any different..

It didn’t quite go as expected.

The rear end was making all kinds of racket. I expected it to when going around a corner, but it was noisy as fck, when making a right turn, and made very little noise if any turning left. When I took it to BMW for the evac I was expecting the worse,...( like something that I didn’t do right kinda worse)..and after getting the system evac’d, got just what I was expecting when trying to get it back home.
One block from the dealership, when trying to make an uphill left turn, the diff uncoupled, and just spun like there was a broken axle making a god awful racket.( think: the noise your trans makes if you try to change a gear w/o the clutch) I was dead in the middle of the intersection. Funny enough, the GM was coming down the hill, as I was trying to go up.
He gets out and pushes the thing back while I steer it.
Doing that re-engages the diff. I start it, I’m able to back up. I put it in low, it moves forward. But not knowing what’s wrong, I’m conflicted over whether or not I should try to drive it, or have it towed.
The GM says take it back to the shop, and have them put it on a lift, maybe somethings just coming loose.
So that’s what I do.
Nothings loose. ( from the outside)
20210114_145224.jpg

20210114_145214.jpg

I call Yukon, and they describe to me everything that this rear end is doing, and tell me that driving this car will now require a few things that were normal before, to having to be being dealt with differently now.

He says, ”You”ll now notice a lot of slop in the drivetrain between coast and drive, especially in high gear,..You’ll learn not to park it too close to anything anymore, because it’ll probably roll about a foot after you put it in park.
I do.
He says “Aside from the noise, you’ll have to deal with certain driving situations a little differently ( like an uphill left turn). You’ll need to power through that instead of coasting through it.
I will.
He says, “ The cogs need some break in time so that they‘ll lock, and unlock more reliably,....Dont baby it”
I won’t.

So, it appears that I’ve got what I asked for,...maybe a little more than I asked for. Time will tell I guess.

Its fast..How much faster is nothing i’m gonna guess at. But with the drag radials in 2nd, it’ll just tear those suckers up..something that the tiny wheezer wouldn’t .
Time will tell there too.
 
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rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
10 Year Member
May 8, 2006
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This morning I fixed the “wrong“ in the engine compartment. I wanted to get that done so I wouldnt be tempted to leave it.
20210114_153122.jpg

I’m sayin much better. After painting over the red, the copper kinda takes on a rose gold look, but that’s ok with me.
I wanted to take the car to the dealership to have the AC system evacuated so that I can change out the drier..I didn’t do that after the engine swap, and just attempted to charge the system after pulling a vacuum....no worky.


It also would give me the chance to test out the torque arm, make sure that the rear end was working, and see if the power felt any different..

It didn’t quite go as expected.

The rear end was making all kinds of racket. I expected it to when going around a corner, but it was noisy as fck, when making a right turn, and made very little noise if any turning left. When I took it to BMW for the evac I was expecting the worse,...( like something that I didn’t do right kinda worse)..and after getting the system evac’d, got just what I was expecting when trying to get it back home.
One block from the dealership, when trying to make an uphill left turn, the diff uncoupled, and just spun like there was a broken axle making a god awful racket.( think: the noise your trans makes if you try to change a gear w/o the clutch) I was dead in the middle of the intersection. Funny enough, the GM was coming down the hill, as I was trying to go up.
He gets out and pushes the thing back while I steer it.
Doing that re-engages the diff. I start it, I’m able to back up. I put it in low, it moves forward. But not knowing what’s wrong, I’m conflicted over whether or not I should try to drive it, or have it towed.
The GM says take it back to the shop, and have them put it on a lift, maybe somethings just coming loose.
So that’s what I do.
Nothings loose. ( from the outside)
20210114_145224.jpg

20210114_145214.jpg

I call Yukon, and they describe to me everything that this rear end is doing, and tell me that driving this car will now require a few things that were normal before, to dealt with differently now.

He says, ”You”ll now notice a lot of slop in the drivetrain between coast and drive, especially in high gear,..You’ll learn not to park it too close to anything anymore, because it’ll probably roll about a foot after you put it in park.
I do.
He says “Aside from the noise, you’ll have to deal with certain driving situations a little differently ( like an uphill left turn). You’ll need to power through that instead of coasting through it.
I will.
He says, “ The cogs need some break in time so that they‘ll lock, and unlock more reliably,....Dont baby it”
I won’t.

So, it appears that I’ve got what I asked for,...maybe a little more than I asked for. Time will tell I guess.

Its fast. How much faster is nothing i’m gonna guess at. But with the drag radials in 2nd, it’ll just tear those suckers up. something that the tiny wheezer wouldn’t .
Time will tell there too.
I'm a huge fan of Yukon after they built their name with some 4WD folks I know. They provided me my first set of 5-lug fox axles about 20 years ago. Their customer service was great at the time, and regardless of the stock spline count, I beat the snot out of them without any problems. I've actually been looking at their lockers for the front end of my Cherokee lately, so I hit the 4WD guys and checked around regarding your issues. The Yukon rep is being straight. The centrifugal force used to operate your mechanical locker will often require it to be under load. Of note, a couple of the guys found that the noise and "drivability" issues became even worse when swapping from a manual to an automatic. This is likely due to the slight load left on as the clutch is disengaged prior to turning. Not one mentioned them completely "uncoupling," and I've yet to see the mechanical locker, or its lunchbox little brother behave that way completely. Noisy and slipping...yes, completely disengaged.....no. Anyway, most had to "get used" to driving it, and found it quieted a bit after the break in oil change. The good news is that they seem to get a lot of positive feedback when in the dirt and seem to get better with age. What was the recommended break in period from Yukon?
 
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
15 Year Member
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Should have gone with the Truetrac.

Kurt
This will be one time that you’ll get no pushback from me.
This was the wrong direction to go for me in the “ undriveable” direction.

Because it’s a giant pain in the ass to change out under the car, I’ll leave it until I can’t stand it any longer.

Then I’ll buy a truetrac.
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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I wonder what the differences are between their locker and an Eaton Detroit. My locker didn't or doesn't have any of those issues. I can imagine the frustration.

In any event, I just did a quick search for a comparison and found this article with this review.


Yukon Gear & Axle Grizzly Locker
The Yukon Gear & Axle (yukongear.com) Grizzly Locker is an automatic locking differential. It functions very much like a Detroit Locker, which it is essentially a copy of. However, it is generally considered to be weaker than the Detroit. We have seen some abusive tall-tire applications spit Grizzly Locker teeth.

Pros
No frills, simple automatic locking differential
100 percent traction to both tires
Cons
Quirky handing on-road
Locker can chuck teeth in abusive tall-tire applications

I hope you don't have any more problems with it.