it’s a nightmare...nobody will want to do this, even if they can.
When did I say that ?
20 years ago when that book was new, I followed that first example to a tee. When it came time to lower the car to the ground, the
suspension bound up. That first example is an absolute no-go.
Naahhhh, I just like ringing your door bell, then running away.
See above..
It don’t look like that anymore..
Now that all of the people are answered ( thanks for the comments)..Let me tell about the jug phck that today was.
Right after updating this thread i went downstairs on a mission..I knew what I had to do, the problem was, I didn’t have what I needed to do it. The blade on my portable band saw ( my weapon of choice) was done,..I don’t think it would even cut me..After 15 minutes of binding and bucking, I put that thing down. I got out my Sawzall,..( Which I really hate) only to find that I had no better blades for it either...but that didn’t stop me from spending another 15 minutes eating that time too,..all the while cussing like a sailor.
All I had left was a freakin cut off wheel on an angle grinder...Just what I wanted at 9:30 am, to get my ass burned up from hot metal sparks...A perfect way to start what was set to be an epic test of my sanity.
And so we begin.
Eventually, I get the thing cut off,..cleaned up, and spun 90*. And at the “Do it twice mike‘s welding and fabrication emporium, where I never tack ANYTHING, preferring to weld the piss out of it instead....
I welded the piss out of it.
Followed up by cleaning that up, then primed it, and painted it.
Now that I had the thing turned the right way, I fell into a complete state of brain cramp....I realized that I had omitted several steps that I shoulda took measurements on...or, took steps to come up with a temporary jig to hold things where they were supposed to be but, nope,....not me,....Not today
You’d think as many race cars that I‘ve scratch built over the years, something that shoulda concerned
somebody whose removing
upper control arms, ( That’ll cause the rear to just flop forward)...Or removing the coil overs, that now allow the entire flopped forward rear to completely drop as far as the brake line will let it drop, before it rips out of the floor...would’ve concerned me.
Did I think about any of that sht,...or take one freakin measurement to give me a reference point to work from?
Nope,..Do it twice Mike here...we’re flyin blind.
So because I had no point of reference to work back to,...I ended up going around in circles...wondering if an egg came before a chicken...or if a tree falling in the woods makes any noise when nobodies around to hear it...
For about two freakin hours.
Finally, I find a path...I decide to work back from the crossmember since it’s done...I put the thing in place, square it up..
But.........
The newly piss-welded bushing mount is almost an inch off center.
Now you know what that noise you thought you heard at 1:45 this afternoon...I think i popped a blood vessel from screaming.
So,...I gotta cut it back off again..Now w/o the benefit of anything i’d use to cut steel, except the cut off wheel. This time, I cannot save it...I have to cut the thing up in pieces so that the cut off wheel will reach far enough to get the job done.
Fortunately.....I have the other one.
By now I’m whipped, screaming pissed,..I decide to break, and go buy the bolt that will hold the male portion of the torque arm, with the female portion being the part that has driven me to the brink. I need like a 6” long, 12 mmx1.75 pitch metric bolt...Now where do ya spose I’m gonna find that bitch on a Sunday?
I choose Lowe’s. I chose,.........poorly.
A 1/2” bolt is close, I buy one, hoping that maybe i’ll be able to drill the hole open to the size. Since I was there, I bought new blades for the band saw.
When I get home, I put the piece in my drill press, get one of my sharpest dull assed 1/2” bits,...and start...To my amazement..it’s working. Evidently the shaft material i’m gonna use as a “male member“ isn’t hardened. I drill it as far as i can go one way, then flip it, and drill it the rest.
Then I cut a piece of 5/16” thick steel, that I intend to weld onto the front of the torque arm, and drill a 1/2” hole through it
Then,....take that piece, run the bolt through the newly drilled out shaft, then through the 5/16” plate, then nut that bitch to the plate,....and......You guessed it.
I welded the piss out of it.
Now,......I got a crossmember with a centered bushing...and it’s back in place. After the shaft gets cool ( which took a really long time..because it was welded front and back.) i inserted the male member into the female receptacle...(It was a very tight fit...as it should be. I had to beat the male member into the female receptacle with a rubber.......mallet.)
I place the torque arm main spar in place...The rear end now at my “ best guess” ride height,..and the pinion angle locked in place at 4* with a piece of aluminum plate. I “tack“
the main spar to the male member..then remove the main spar,...and....Weld the piss out of it. Then I reinforced that with big assed gussets..and plated that.
After it cooled...I cleaned it..I primed it...And said..Fck this place...and turned off the lights.
*edit..forgot the picture of my battered up crossmember
There now..all better.
