It’s back together. it runs.
It’s still on jack stands.
Everything is tight, everything clears. I don’t need the wheels spacers, MOF there is so much room inboard, I could have narrowed the rear an additional inch and the tires would still clear.
But Now the issue is that the tire sits too far inward..it actually needs to be spaced outward for the sake of appearance. Adding the 1/4” spacer fixes it, but then the wheel studs are a little too short. Like I said last time, still have to change things because I changed other things.
The exhaust leaks at the crossmember union. I have to cut the exhaust to relieve the tweak that won’t let the v band flange sit flush....Bolt it back together, then weld the damn thing in place ( what I didn’t do the last time).
It was about 55 degrees today, all in all warm enough to work with the garage door open, but not warm enough to paint.
The Wheel skirts didn’t like the cold, the paint will be a do-over.
The car hadn’t been started in over a month..The battery was way down, and consequently wouldn’t start the car. I bought one of those really small emergency jump boxes several months ago and used it to boost the battery. It started immediately once there was enough current in the battery. This isn’t the first time i’ve had to use it,...it almost stranded me when I went to PC fla last November. This is an Optima red top that i’ve probably had for 5 years at least..I’m thinking that thing is on its way out.
The tail pipe is the one thing that turned out nicely...I had to completely rebuild the thing, but it fits like I want it to now..It’s far away from contacting anything, and way better looking than the previous hacked/patched/ bandaged frank-n-pipe that was there before.
Lastly,...When I started the thing, I had forgotten to reinstall the WB O2 sensor. It only ran for 10-15 seconds because it was making holy hell exhaust noise. But screwing the thing back in, and hooking it up aint gonna work...The AFR was pegged at 21.9:1 the entire time I ran it up to temp when I restarted it. Hopefully a free air calibration will fix this.
So business as usual I guess..Gotta redo the exhaust connections at the union, Gotta repaint the wheel skirts, probably need a new battery, and recal the o2 sensor. Considering this was a turbo swap, rear end narrow, axle and differential swap, and of course a new torque arm fab, the 500 mile journey this time is just about at the end.
It’s still on jack stands.
Everything is tight, everything clears. I don’t need the wheels spacers, MOF there is so much room inboard, I could have narrowed the rear an additional inch and the tires would still clear.
But Now the issue is that the tire sits too far inward..it actually needs to be spaced outward for the sake of appearance. Adding the 1/4” spacer fixes it, but then the wheel studs are a little too short. Like I said last time, still have to change things because I changed other things.
The exhaust leaks at the crossmember union. I have to cut the exhaust to relieve the tweak that won’t let the v band flange sit flush....Bolt it back together, then weld the damn thing in place ( what I didn’t do the last time).
It was about 55 degrees today, all in all warm enough to work with the garage door open, but not warm enough to paint.
The Wheel skirts didn’t like the cold, the paint will be a do-over.
The car hadn’t been started in over a month..The battery was way down, and consequently wouldn’t start the car. I bought one of those really small emergency jump boxes several months ago and used it to boost the battery. It started immediately once there was enough current in the battery. This isn’t the first time i’ve had to use it,...it almost stranded me when I went to PC fla last November. This is an Optima red top that i’ve probably had for 5 years at least..I’m thinking that thing is on its way out.
The tail pipe is the one thing that turned out nicely...I had to completely rebuild the thing, but it fits like I want it to now..It’s far away from contacting anything, and way better looking than the previous hacked/patched/ bandaged frank-n-pipe that was there before.
Lastly,...When I started the thing, I had forgotten to reinstall the WB O2 sensor. It only ran for 10-15 seconds because it was making holy hell exhaust noise. But screwing the thing back in, and hooking it up aint gonna work...The AFR was pegged at 21.9:1 the entire time I ran it up to temp when I restarted it. Hopefully a free air calibration will fix this.
So business as usual I guess..Gotta redo the exhaust connections at the union, Gotta repaint the wheel skirts, probably need a new battery, and recal the o2 sensor. Considering this was a turbo swap, rear end narrow, axle and differential swap, and of course a new torque arm fab, the 500 mile journey this time is just about at the end.
My red top in my 67 coupe is over 10 years old and the leaded battery that is in my grandpas 78 Mercedes Diesel that I inherited is a little over 20 years old. It has Been on one of their trickle chargers for the last 12+ years and still starts the bitch. I am sold on those things. For $5.99 you can’t go wrong. The battery for my jet boat is over 10 years old and is on one of their trickle chargers as well.
