Build Thread 1978 Fairmont. I bet somebody back home’s thinkin’…I wonder why he don’t write..?

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This isnt a " the wife and children I have been given" are at fault post. But when they buy upspec 4stage auto 20 valve and four wheel drive Toyotas with 11 to one comprssion engines with air con and JDM spring tower support kits, there is no room at the Inn. Id rather work on my mates MR2 Turbo or the 944S my work mate had. I was just inches off buying the Poor Sh!÷ joke in 2018. You dont have 145 hp 4AGE 20 valve Trueno's, 177 hp 3SGE RAV4.1s, or the four wheel drive 1996 Camry Station wagons or Stagea RS4 AWD Nissans with no OBDII ports and no live data and because of this, they have earth problems, ignition and fuel pump and ABS problems that I spend all my spare time sorting out.The service aspect is difficult on these. Your US cars dont have the brake,steering and key ohc belt drives where the key servos go. Air con, power steering, ABS...always in the wrong spot, and AWD power transfers that stop easy service. Actually, I think there is a red Maserati Merak SS 3 liter in Te Anua that needs a good home.Easier to service.
You're right. I mean, we got the 3SGE, but in the Celica GT, and I'm not sure we ever got a 4WD Camry.

Meanwhile, I've got a 2UZ-FE in my 4Runner (Hilux Surf or Land Cruiser Prado in most other parts of the world), and it's simple to work on in spite of being a DOHC V8 with VVT. Hell, the hardest thing to do on that 4Runner is adding transmission fluid. :cool:
 
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No translation required. I was trying to d73H. Um, no, thats lysdexic. HELp

But I'm getting it now.

I've just been reading Matt Cramer's 2013 book, DIY High Performance Car Mods. Great book, but sadly...

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I read all his key resources before, and everything seams watered down.

After you've read the Bells and Vizard's and so forth, everything else seams like its rice wine. Hope ya'll got enough alphabet soup to nourish you.

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Turbo problems fixed - check!

Fries new drag slicks - check!

Full on tubbed out rear - next!
And in hindsight...
There never was a turbo problem.
The Rev 9 Chinee turbo that I sold off to buy the tiny wheezer would’ve been fine.
If it wouldn’t have been for a leaking waste gate. I sold that thing to Matt for like 150, although I paid 300.00.


The Tiny Wheezer would’ve been more than adequate if it wouldn’t have been for a leaking wastegate.
Fortunately, they refunded my money.

The new turbo is gonna be downright scary, when I get rid of the leaking wastegate.

I thought I paid 300.00 for that wastegate, but after looking at my previous purchases I actually paid 180.00.
if i had access to a blast furnace, i’d actually throw that thing in there just to watch it melt.

So on the bright side, relatively easy to choke down having thrown that money away in exchange for the knowledge that I’ve gained here. I could always hear a dull exhaust leak after this thing was bolted back together...to think that a lot of that noise was coming from inside the exhaust just about floors me.
 
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The Rev 9 Chinee turbo that I sold off to buy the tiny wheezer would’ve been fine.
If it wouldn’t have been for a leaking waste gate. I sold that thing to Matt for like 150, although I paid 300.00.
If it makes you feel any better, I appreciate the hell out of you for giving me such a good deal on a tested and lightly used Chinese turbo so I didn't have to roll the dice on a new one and hope for the best. :nice:
 
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The new S pipe is made. I welded a pipe thread bung in the bottom so that I can pressure test the new wastegate, and then seal the s pipe with a plug when everything cks out.
Just for grins, I bolted the current wastegate back on and tested it for leaks,..
It no longer leaks at the flange, but the seat/valve is still letting air get by like crazy..This thing has one if two things wrong, and im gonna guess that the seat is the problem.
Nonetheless,...lts a matter of a couple of days now. And ill have a new unit in place.
Im gonna be safe, and shut off the ebc to see how it runs on gate pressure (14psi) and then if I don't end up in a ditch..start bringing back boost duty until I get back to 20 psi..
( which i expect to be a completely different animal than it was before at 20 psi).
 
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Geeze. Cost waka mole. But it is page 69 of your new Gila Monster Archipelago. I read ever one of the first install, and Solzhenitsyn aint got nothin on ya.



I do Think I might have to fill out another BurtHurt Report, tho'.


Shadze of the

1. Cost of carbon fiber push rods

2. and a block plate costs again.

3. Or just some Open window solid roller rockers

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4. And not hole sawing the block, but just using 12 3/8" Franken bolts



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5. and the non cross flow head Painting what your priming preach.

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6. And the HSO timing chain

7. And the HSO 6 inch con rods


I've got six fingers on each hand, 12 fingers, but wont continue...

8. Paint thinners is what Toluene is. It can be gotten for way less if its supplied another way. But Im not sure how it is in the Bam.

Down here, the Aromatic hydrocarbon boost through benzene base is sustained as long as it stays in suspension. The aftermarket concentrate octane boost isn't sustained.

The old David Vizard rule before he got bitten by the tacoon who sold TK7 bug is the right one.

Find a cheap source of benzene, and add it to low test gas. Brew you own. As you know Mike, I work with the petrochemical industry. I like thinners. Especially at less than 18 bucks a US gallon. Down here, we have Bitumen seal Macadam, and its used as a diluent for chipping out roads. Dang, if I was having critters pay me 20 bucks per gallon to supply them with toluene, I could retire!

Anyway, you should run 6 ounce of Boostane every tank on 93 octane. That should bring you to 98 octane and do the trick.

Onwards an upwards. Nail that Six Babeh!
My dad was a chemical engineer for Texaco,, AKA The Texas Company. It was. a major oil refinery company from the 1940's through the 1970's's.
In the time around WWII, Dad was working in the chemical labs and evidently got exposed to benzene which was used to boost the octane of Avgas. He died in 1965 of liver cancer, which is one of the effects of benzene exposure.

Moral of the story: stay way from benzene at all costs.
 
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My dad was a chemical engineer for Texaco,, AKA The Texas Company. It was. a major oil refinery company from the 1940's through the 1970's's. In the time around WWII, Dad was working in the chemical labs and evidently got exposed to benzene with was used to boost the octane of Avgas. He died in 1965 of liver cancer, which is one of the effects of benzene exposure.

Moral of the story: stay way from benzene at all costs.
In case someone revives the 1970’s idea of throwing mothballs in the gas tank, the vapor they release is a benzene. Flee like mice and moths.
 
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FYI - I know you have no intention on running any additives BUT for convos sake the VP Maditive does work as well as torco . We have used torco on the dyno more then a few times. I ran it in my car but the toulene makes the plugs look orange which I’m sure you know .
 
FYI - I know you have no intention on running any additives BUT for convos sake the VP Maditive does work as well as torco . We have used torco on the dyno more then a few times. I ran it in my car but the toulene makes the plugs look orange which I’m sure you know .
I just got two 32oz cans of boostane. It is one of the higher rated additives out there that I could find that was still compatible with an O2 sensor that will actually do what they claim. The mix ratio is reasonable, basically 1oz per gallon to yield between 98-100 octane.
And the reviews tell me that it will cause the plugs to turn orange.
That would be an issue if I was trying to creep up on a max power tune and needed to watch the plugs, but since I wouldn’t know what to look for on a plug when trying not to melt the thing down, and since i’m only trying to keep it safe, the plugs will stay in the engine.
As long as the engine doesn’t ping, What ever color they are while they’re there is fine with me.
 
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I just got two 32oz cans of boostane. It is one of the higher rated additives out there that I could find that was still compatible with an O2 sensor that will actually do what they claim. The mix ratio is reasonable, basically 1oz per gallon to yield between 98-100 octane.
And the reviews tell me that it will cause the plugs to turn orange.
That would be an issue if I was trying to creep up on a max power tune and needed to watch the plugs, but since I wouldn’t know what to look for on a plug when trying not to melt the thing down, and since i’m only trying to keep it safe, the plugs will stay in the engine.
As long as the engine doesn’t ping, What ever color they are while they’re there is fine with me.
If you make a hit on a clean plug fresh no real idle time and check if you’d have minimal if any orange color on the plug and be able to read it
 
If you make a hit on a clean plug fresh no real idle time and check if you’d have minimal if any orange color on the plug and be able to read it
I’m going back to gate pressure to start with anyway, so if anything it shouldn’t even need the additive.
14 psi is gate pressure. In the old, leaking version at 14 psi, It was downright slow ( considering at 23 psi, it would only run 7.70 in the 1/8th, you can take a guess as to what i’m talking about) Im expecting a completely different outcome here.

*This engine has had me expecting “ completely different outcomes” several times now since putting it in, so, I’m also tempering my expectations.
 
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On a completely different tangent...

In December i’m shopping for an action camera online. Amazon being my go to. Obviously, as with all things, there are “ good/better/bests” out there, and after shopping a minute, found several “good” cameras made by the Chinee for around 50 bucks. There were more than a dozen different unrecognizable names, they all look the same, basically a little plastic box with a lense on one front and an lcd screen on back.

I figure, “What the hell,..it’s 50 bucks,...if it doesn’t work, It’ll be a lesson learned” it’s not like I’ve purchased some big dollar item ( like a wastegate):nonono:

So I buy it. Within a few days, it gets here, and I piddle around with it,..it works, and the end result looks good.
On a different day, I’m back at it..I’m now telling myself that I’ll need an additional camera to capture a diff end view angle of what I’m trying to video, and since you can buy them for 50 bucks...
I stumble onto some website that claims to be offering a multi-purchase incentive, ( buy one for 50, get two for 39 ea., get three for 35 ea....)
Again, the “ What the hell“ rationale pops back into my head, I buy two more, and add two micro SD cards to the purchase.
Only this time, NOT from Amazon..And, as soon as I’ve made the purchase, and close that website..I cut my link to that purchase.
I check my email in the days/weeks after the purchase, and get nothing....no confirmation of the purchase, no shipping confirmation either..It appears that I’ve been scammed.

I contact my bank, file a fraud claim,..they take 10 days, and deny it. I refile the claim, this time with more emphasis on my part as to what I expected...A few days later, they deny it.

I figure that I’m screwed.

All during this time in December while I’m buying these cameras, Kate is quietly sitting there..Secretly frustrated that I’m buying all these cameras, when she has actually bought me a GOPRO hero7 as a Christmas gift.

So,..now I’ve got two.

Yesterday, a big plastic white envelope shows up in the mail..It’s from China..Guess what’s inside?
Yep,..those two cameras..
Now Ive got 4..
 
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I’m going back to gate pressure to start with anyway, so if anything it shouldn’t even need the additive.
14 psi is gate pressure. In the old, leaking version at 14 psi, It was downright slow ( considering at 23 psi, it would only run 7.70 in the 1/8th, you can take a guess as to what i’m talking about) Im expecting a completely different outcome here.

*This engine has had me expecting “ completely different outcomes” several times now since putting it in, so, I’m also tempering my expectations.
On pump gas 26 isn’t unrealistic , 600 at the tire is no issue from what I have seen . As long as your method of inter cooling keeps the temps in check you’re good to go . I’m telling you I have seen my fair share of these you just are having growing pains . Some self inflicted but were all guilty
 
The difference is actual boost growth verses what you expect. Richard and Josh below said the same thing...just need more spring and a boost strategy.

Without it, you spoil a rod when you spank the child.

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Same with the big 1054 hp @ 5600 rpm "Junkyard 351 Windsor Past 1,000 HP! - Big-Bang 351W" by Richard Holdener

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and "975 hp at 6200 rpm on 27 lbs 351 Windsor LS #317 Heads" by Josh Green


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Just sitting here, waiting on my customer to get out of finance..When he’s done, It won’t be that much longer before I’m gone today..
That wastegate is supposed to show up today. I’m actually almost Jonesing to get it bolted back into that s tube, and do the pressure test..And hope that it holds pressure. Then mount it.
Then not be able to drive it for a week...Coldfront coming in tonight.
it was 70 on mon, 70 on tues, 70 on wed.
It’s raining and 65 today..

Tomorrow through.......fck.....the next ten days....it’s either rain, or like 45 for the high..:nonono:
 
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